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Hi Don,

For my patterns I use wide masking tape (as sold for helping you paint around doorframes etc) which I get the wide stuff from Wickes, a pack of 4 for £9, lasts ages. Put a layer of this on the wood, overlapping a little on each row.

Then use Prittstick (or similar) to glue your pattern on top of the masking tape.

The great advantage with this is that the masking tape can be left on for ages, for example if you don't work on a project for a week, yet it will still peel off without leaving any residue on your work.

If you ever do any stack cuts (two layers of the same image at once) then you just use the exact same method but wrap the tape right around the edges of the wood and underneath a little, so that it holds the stack together, and then you don't need nails, screws or additional tape.

Best method I've found, try it, if you don't like it I'll give you your money back :)
 
Thanks Aggrajag,
All very useful advice. I looks as if taping the wood and then sticking on the pattern is the way to go.
I have a fair bit of packing tape to be used up so I will gave it a go when when the shed warms up a bit. It is less than 5 degrees out there at the moment and it is just after lunch ?? far to cold to sit without the heater on.
 
I've done some scroll sawing on a plywood we use for packing our machines at work and only had to sand the bottom bit even when I used reverse blades. But then I adjusted my Axi EX-21 to have fine pendulum instead of coarse and bottom part of blade is now cutting as well and don't have to do that much sanding at all.
Previously I used Rexon SS16SA with good result too.
I also have done some scroll sawing on cheap offcuts plywood from B&Q with good result. So maybe I would look if blade is installed correctly.
 
pug_1a.jpg
Hi All I'm back,
Finished a little project today done with some good quality ply. The ply is 1/4" and, I think, a bit heavy.
@scrimper, I ordered some 1/8" ply today from your recommended site. I will let you know how that goes.
 

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Thanks Brian,
My grand-daughter has just got herself a pup and I liked this design.
I will post on ScrollSaw Village wth it and credit the designer
 
Hi Peter,
I am using the 'Scroll Saw Workbook', by John A. Nelson at the moment, and working my way through the exercises. Lots of different exercises and all very interesting, but it is a matter of practice and finding the tools that you are comfortable with.
My other book is 'Success with ScrollSaws, by Julie & Fred Byrne, this also contains loads of exercises and advice but leans more towards segmentation/intarsia. Another brilliant book and I can't wait to get started on it.
@ scrimper, I ordered 10 sheets 3.2mm ply yesterday afternoon and they were delivered this morning. Excellent result from 4d model shop.
http://www.modelshop.co.uk
 
Hi All,
I'm back :D Following the advice of scrimper and Aggrajag I cut the butterfly again.
I orientated it to run with the grain as scrimper suggested and used masking tape stuck to the wood and then the pattern stuck with Pritt stick as advised by Aggrajag and the whole taped over with parcel tape.
I cut with an Olson #5 reverse tooth and am very pleased with the result. After cutting the the masking tape peeled the lot off and there was practically no sandind needed.
Tomorrow I am off to the club and hope to cut a little intarsia exercise.
Thanks for the help everyone.

take care
Don W
PS I tried to get a picture of the Pug after I framed it but my grand daughter already has it on the coffee table :)
 

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Hi Peter,
I am a member of the Broxburn Woodcraft Club and it meets in the Strathbrock Centre in Broxburn.
We have access to the workshop 5 days a week from 9 am until 9 pm. A great club and every type of woodworking goes on and we have a dedicated 'Stickmakers' section for making walking sticks, shepherds crooks etc.

take care
Don W
PS They also have a library of well used books and I think those books are in there
 
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