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wow, some great stuff on this thread, pics of a on outside bench i built, finished off with left over composite decking boards.
Good idea, better than timber for a maintenance free solution.


This is a project ive started,yet to finish, and I really need to make a few changes to to give it a proper use.

A bit back a local shop closed down and the builder dumped fittings, odds and ends in the skip. I got two old soft drinks crates, probably from about the 70's Irn Bru.
So what to do with an irn bru crate.
This was my idea
It's too low just to put an upholstered board on as a stool, but to use it for that, and make use of its internals for storage i needed to lift it up to a decent level.

So have taken 4 tall Irn Bru drinks cans. Wrapped them in 3m helicopter tape to preserve the painted/printed logos, with the notion to use them as feet/legs.

I think the few pics i took at the time will explain how i went about this.
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I used concrete to provide strength to the cans, to stop them crushing, and also to set in M10 threaded rods to be used to mount them to the crate

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Once I'd got the concrete in there i used an oscillating saw to vibrate the air out, make it nice and solid, and capped each off with an oak disc. It affords a better interface between the top of each can and the bottom of the crate
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To secure the legs inside as the was nothing to bolt into ive made shaped blocks in pine, drilled right through and secured with a washer,spring washer and nut.
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I did initially line the inside with irn bru blue coloured vinyl,plus orange sticky backed felt-Ive a huge roll of it now :LOL: (you can see it in the 5th pic down in the background through the bottom of the crate) looking to retain the compartments as maybe some sort of drinks cabinet, but it became too convoluted and in truth it was losing its ability to act as a store for anything else, so my next idea is to remove the majority of the bottle compartments, line it with the irn bru livery blue in felt covered board and it have a simple lid, upholstered in the same blue vinyl as a seat cover.

The idea has worked out pretty well, but the 4 tall cans full of concrete has made the entire thing pretty heavy, perhaps too heavy. But i still like the overall design, especially the legs, they make for a nice touch.
 
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Great idea and a fun piece.

What is going on with the door frames in pic 4 though? I'm getting 80s music video vibes 😄
 
I made these for my daughter-in-law's birthday.

The frames are maple, the feet are walnut and the roof is laminate flooring.

The writing round the base was routed on a cheap (Chinese) CNC engraver then filled with wood filler and sanded back before finishing.

Just to give some scale, the candles (LED) are 100mm diameter.

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An important milestone coming up this month so I've been beavering away for ages making this in secret, (anyone who's tried to keep a secret from their missus will appreciate just how much effort that takes o_O)

Anyway, it's a book box thingy around 10" long and 2" thick. main outer in walnut, pages are ash and the bookmark/handle is veneers glued in a former. Lettering was cut in with a very small V carving chisel then highlighted with a pyrography burning pen, the drawer section is also walnut with oak bottom has a magnet to keep if in place if turned upside down. The memory card is oak covers with half a dozen pages of photocopied photos on 170gsm paper glued back to back so like stiff cars and bound using secret binding method I found on youtube and the fake 50p is off ebay. Finish was a coat of sanding sealer followed by several cats of wax. I've edited the photos so you 'orrible lot can't have a laugh at my expense. :ROFLMAO:
It's not perfect but nothing the missus will see so hopefully all good and worthy of many brownie points.
book 01.jpg
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I thought you put the oil first , maybe I am wrong .If so ignore me ;)
I've made a mix of beeswax and linseed oil and another mix of mineral oil and beeswax. I haven't tried the oil first method as appears most people make up a mix, but could try it I guess. The linseed oil alone gives a dull finish hence why I've mixed it with wax.
 
I've made a mix of beeswax and linseed oil and another mix of mineral oil and beeswax. I haven't tried the oil first method as appears most people make up a mix, but could try it I guess. The linseed oil alone gives a dull finish hence why I've mixed it with wax.
Perhaps just try a couple coats of just the wax over your mix of oil and wax to build up the sheen you want.
 
I've made a mix of beeswax and linseed oil and another mix of mineral oil and beeswax. I haven't tried the oil first method as appears most people make up a mix, but could try it I guess. The linseed oil alone gives a dull finish hence why I've mixed it with wax.

I normally use Danish oil , Give a liberal coat leave it for 15 min's, dry off , Then apply a wax of choice.
 
Great idea and a fun piece.

What is going on with the door frames in pic 4 though? I'm getting 80s music video vibes 😄
The furthest frame is on an angled section of wall. but int truth the angle of the frames is way off anyway. Had a devil of a job fitting a couple of new doors.
The buildings shifted due to subsidence and most of the doors and frames were left really out of true.
 
Two pens - one rollerball, one fountain Ukraine flag coloured blanks from Beaufort Inks, made for a raffle. Both Leveche, one chrome one gunmetal. I took care to align the stripes but as the top and bottom sections are different the stripes are diffent widths so don't align anyway.

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Lovely pens you have made and I think you have chosen well with the leveche as it seems to lend itself well with stripes.
Good luck with the raffle mate.
 
I normally use Danish oil , Give a liberal coat leave it for 15 min's, dry off , Then apply a wax of choice.
Thanks. Is Danish oil foodsafe? Ideally using oils that are but haven't come across Danish oil here (Portugal). The wax is hard hence why I mixed it with oil so don't think that it'll be easy to apply.
Regards
 
Perhaps just try a couple coats of just the wax over your mix of oil and wax to build up the sheen you want.
Cheers Stig. The wax is hard hence why I mix it with oil(s) but can give it a shot. Do you wait for it to dry before polishing it? Does it help to do it on the lathe or is a hand polish just as effective? I've tried both methods but haven't noticed too much difference. Ideally want to use food safe oils hence why I've used linseed and mineral.
Regards
 
Thanks. Is Danish oil foodsafe? Ideally using oils that are but haven't come across Danish oil here (Portugal). The wax is hard hence why I mixed it with oil so don't think that it'll be easy to apply.
Regards

From the www

"The answer is yes! A completely cured Danish oil is completely safe for your kitchen wood furniture or wooden cutting boards. Danish oils always make a strong bonding with the wood surface and don't do any reactions with food substances. It remains still making it safe for food items that we use for eating."
 
Cheers Stig. The wax is hard hence why I mix it with oil(s) but can give it a shot. Do you wait for it to dry before polishing it? Does it help to do it on the lathe or is a hand polish just as effective? I've tried both methods but haven't noticed too much difference. Ideally want to use food safe oils hence why I've used linseed and mineral.
Regards
All on the lathe, I rub the wax into the wood then run the lathe as fast as I can (safely) and use the fricton to heat up and melt the wax into the wood, once I've applied 2 or 3 coats this way I used soft tissue with the piece still spinning to lightly buff until I'm happy with the shine. I do believe Danish Oil is food safe.
 
Two pens - one rollerball, one fountain Ukraine flag coloured blanks from Beaufort Inks, made for a raffle. Both Leveche, one chrome one gunmetal. I took care to align the stripes but as the top and bottom sections are different the stripes are diffent widths so don't align anyway.

View attachment 131806View attachment 131809
Those stripes really make this design stand out from the crowd :cool:
 
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