Pen finish - carnauba wax?

[Brianp]

Hi all.

I know there are a squillion and one answers to the "best pen finish" question, but at the moment, I'm only new to 'em and finding it interesting the number of mistakes you can make the more times you do a project.

Still n' all, I'm finishing them with a drop or two of finishing oil before adding a final finish of carnauba wax stick - applied on the lathe and buffed with a cotton cloth (carefully) before removal and assembly.

I'm finding that the wax finish is all lovely and shiny as it comes off the lathe, but then by the time I've the pen assembled and "on show" in the kitchen, it's dulled quite a bit.

The wax either isn't the best finish, or I'm doing it wrong. The latter is usually it, but perhaps you can help me out? Thanks guys, as ever!

 

[CHJ]

Wax on top of oil will not give you a sustainable gloss finish unless the finishing oil has polymerised * (time) and formed a hard skin.

You would be better using a sanding sealer to render the wood impervious to wax penetration and then using the wax.

Although carnauba is a higher melting point wax than bees wax an even better wax for resisting handling would be a Microcrystalline version.

* Not all finishing oils will form a polymerised skin.

 

[KimG]

I have also found (though not on pens as such, I have not turned any) that a good finish is as much dependent on the preparation as the finish itself, for something as small as a pen I would really recommend getting some micromesh cloth or pads, for wood, (as opposed to acrylic) going down to the 4000 is usually enough but it doesn't hurt to go to the 12000 grade, just a short abrading with each grade is sufficient and keep the pressure very light as it is easy to press too hard and end up removing the abrasive leaving a grey mark.

Once you have the wood itself super smooth like this, then apply a sealer and then the wax, microcrystaline as Chas says is excellent for stuff that is likely to be handled, but eventually it will likely dull a little, though with that fine sanding you could in fact get a really super looking finish over time as the patina develops.

 

[Brianp]

Thanks guys - I just love the way that the oil makes the grain "pop"which is why I used it, but I'll try the next pen without (or perhaps be a lot more patient, as you suggest) and go from a sealer to the wax.

Sanding wise, I go 180,240,320,then through nywebs green, red, orange. That's (a) all I have and (b) probably not enough, but everything's a tradeoff...

 

[CHJ]

The sanding sealer will give you a glazed finish, especially if you burnish it.
As long as you can't see any sanding marks, finish sand (stationary) with the grain, then 320 should be fine.

 

[CHJ]

Not suggesting you need a buffing system for pens, you don't, but the images here of a small bowl should give you an indication of the gloss level obtainable with just a sanding sealer after 240 grit sanding.

You should be able to achieve similar gloss using a burnishing cream on the sanding sealer prior to waxing.

 

[Lons]

What Chas said but if you want a high gloss finish (not everyone does) then worth thinking about using CA. You definitely need micromesh however.

These are all finished with CA plus a final coat of microcrystline wax.

 

[midnightlunchbox]

Yup, I also use CA as a finish, I think it gives excellent results and produces a high shine, long lasting finish. It's definitely worth a go.

 

[Brianp]

Not suggesting you need a buffing system for pens, you don't, but the images here of a small bowl should give you an indication of the gloss level obtainable with just a sanding sealer after 240 grit sanding.

You should be able to achieve similar gloss using a burnishing cream on the sanding sealer prior to waxing.

Wow, very impressive. I'll look into that one, thanks!

 

[spinks]

Not an expert by any means although I have sold a few pens to keep the cashflow turning over!! The most successful finish I have come across if a Blo/Ca finish....sand out to the grit of your choosing, wipe over with a tack rag, a quick coat of boiled linseed oil, leave to dry (the grain "pops out with the blo") then 3 or 4 coats of CA (superglue to you and I), I use the medium and put it on with a rag while the lathe spins slowly.....leave to set hard and check finish...if happy a quick burnishing with HUT crystal coat (other friction polishes are available, but hut has proved best for me) and assemble...a nice glossy, long lasting finish!

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

I clatter off pens on a regular basis for gifts. I have an activator pen for superglue from a mitre kit which speeds up the curing process.
I sand to 400, then burnish with a handful of shavings before applying the first coat.

Works for me.