paring gouge & stanley no71 cutters(for alf & rob)

[head clansman]

hi all


two questions ,

1 Is there a purpose made grinding wheel for grinding the bevel to a paring gouge and what would be the angle of the grinding bevel :?: .

2 What is the correct way of sharpening a grannies tooth :?: ( if you like a stanley no 71) I only have two blade one about 6.5m and the other about 11.2m this one has a removable cutter foot , i think there is a third but don't know the size (any ideas) :?: have been looking to find the third so far with out any luck . thanks in advance for any info . hc.

 

[woodbloke]

hi all


Is there a purpose made grinding wheel for grinding the bevel to a paring gouge and what would be the angle of the grinding bevel :?: .

If it's an incanelled (scribing) gouge you're refering to HC, then as far as I'm aware the answer is 'no' I use a Proxxon mini drill with a small grinding wheel, but it's difficult and fiddly :evil: to grind the primary bevel and then produce a square, honed edge (without rounding the corners) - Rob

 

[head clansman]

hi rob

tis indeed i think this is wright, concave , to you and me on the inside of the gouge curve, use to be able to get a coned shaped grinding wheel :?: .hc

 

[AndyT]

At the risk of provoking a long discussion on honing jigs, I'd say that in my experience the easiest way is freehand!

For a Stanley style router, you may need to take the oilstone out of its box so that the shaft can hang down over the side as you carefully hone the upper surface, then do the back - the easy side - holding the shaft upright in your fingers.

Alternatively, grip the cutter in the vice and move the stone (perhaps a small slipstone) over it.

Andy

 

[Evergreen]

Hi HC

I've got an odd cutter for a Stanley 71 that's about 13mm wide. It's forged all in one piece. This could be the size you're missing?

I bought it years ago to fit a wooden router I was making. It wasn't a success so the wooden router when in the scrap bin and the cutter went into my "bits and pieces" drawer.

If you're interested, PM me with your address and I'll stick it in a jiffy bag for you.

 

[head clansman]

hi evergreen


pm sent thank you .hc

 

[woodbloke]

hi rob

tis indeed i think this is wright, concave , to you and me on the inside of the gouge curve, use to be able to get a coned shaped grinding wheel :?: .hc

This pic shows the set up I use:

for grinding the gouges. The 'baccy tin's got a load of different shaped grinding wheels in it. The gouge on the left is one that I got from Penny Farthing Tools and was originally an ordinary firmer gouge, the next thing to do was to do a bit of grinding to turn it into a scribing gouge. After that I re-handled it with octagonal London pattern one in english walnut - Rob

 

[head clansman]

hi rob

nice one .hc

 

[matthewwh]

One tool often forgotten when it comes to sharpening is the humble file, but for difficult primary bevels like this it is a very accurate method.

Secure the gouge in a vice so that the cannel is horizontal and file it to shape with a round or half round file, then switch to a dowel wrapped with wet & dry or lapping film to hone the cutting edge.

 

[woodbloke]

One tool often forgotten when it comes to sharpening is the humble file, but for difficult primary bevels like this it is a very accurate method.

Secure the gouge in a vice so that the cannel is horizontal and file it to shape with a round or half round file, then switch to a dowel wrapped with wet & dry or lapping film to hone the cutting edge.

Matthew...you jest surely? On mild steel I'd agree, but on a lump of hard steel like a gouge? I think I'll stick to the Proxxon - Rob

 

[Alf]

HC, normal people do tend to freehand the router cutters, but if you want a really spectacular result you might be interested in this ancient post.

As for the gouges, if you find a foolproof method, I'd be delighted. They're a monumental pain in the posterior - which is a shame, 'cos they're very useful and I have an awful lot waiting to be sharpened...

Cheers, Alf

 

[matthewwh]

Well blow me down with a feather!

SHE'S BACK!!!

A very warm welcome home Alf - hope you'll be staying for a while.

Rob - granted it doesn't always work, if the tool is really hard the file will just skid off but there is an overlap between hard enough to be a good tool and just soft enough to work on with a sharp aggressive file. Much easier to control than a dremel etc.

100 micron film wrapped around a dowel is also very good for hand grinding cannels and that will definately cut the harder ones too.

 

[woodbloke]

As for the gouges, if you find a foolproof method, I'd be delighted. They're a monumental pain in the posterior - which is a shame, 'cos they're very useful and I have an awful lot waiting to be sharpened...

Cheers, Alf

Alf - you're right, as far as I'm aware, there is no foolproof method to re-grind the primary bevel on a scribing gouge. Honing a square edge is hard enough, but grinding them is a real pain in the arris - Rob

 

[woodbloke]

100 micron film wrapped around a dowel is also very good for hand grinding cannels and that will definately cut the harder ones too.

...of which I have a lump. Many thanks Matthew :wink:
The trick with the Proxxon is to grind the bevel from opposite sides of the gouge (because of the rotation of the stone), so one half is ground with the stone opposite the handle and the other half is ground 'on top' of the gouge with the drill over the handle...makes life bloody awkward but doable with a lot of care - Rob

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I use the cheap drum sanders http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axmi ... -21961.htm and then waste slip stones http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Sun- ... -23399.htm and finish on a strop with autosol.
I usually manage to catch my self some times deeply so its not something I look forward to.


Pete

p.s Hi Alf

 

[Paul.J]

When i was an apprentice Patternmaker,we used paring gouges/chisels and we had a grind stone to sharpen them.But it was a cone shaped stone and we just put the different sized gouge upto the right size dia of the stone to regrind,then just used a slip stone to finish off.
It worked pretty good.Haven't seen anything like it since.

 

[head clansman]

hi alf

ha ah tis indeed alf , welcome back , this time stay ,ok.

i can just about remember stored somewhere back in the old grey matter somewhere at the back of the old head, back in the old day when grinders could have a cone shaped grinding wheels supplied, thought one of these would do the lob nicely ,smaller the gouge nearer the tip when grinding a new bevel , but search and try as i may, the little blighters are still eluding me , but if i find them all will see. hc

 

[head clansman]

hi paulj

you have seen them as well ha ha good so i dint dream of them after all. :lol: .hc

 

[Paul.J]

No HC you were'nt dreaming.
From what i remember of the grinder,it did seem a purpose made grinder not something that someone had put together.
It seemed to run off the two main round stones as a normal grinder but the cone stone came out the side/back of the two round ones.If you see what i mean :?

 

[head clansman]

hi paul


phew , so i wasn't dreaming after all , yep that right i seem to remember ,well it was as long time ago , i think you could remove one wheel and wind on a cone shaped one instead , maybe your right , still looking though . hc