Honest John
Established Member
I’ve just completed an open segment vessel, the first I’ve done for a long time. Halfway through the build process, I had a lightbulb moment, and decided to build the top half as a separate build and then join the two parts together. This of course provided easier access to the inside to take the wall thickness down. Anyway, I left the the bottom section in it’s chuck and used a second chuck to build the top in reverse as it were, from the top down. I built a closed segment ring for the top, chalked and flattened it off, and I thought I would use a paper glue joint to fix this to a sacrificial wood plate held in the chuck, as I thought I could easily break the joint on completion without involving the thin open segments in very much riving. How wrong I was! I used Titebond 2 for the build, and so as that was to hand, that’s what I used in the paper joint + best brown paper bag section. When the time for separation came, I was horrified to find that no amount of chisel insertion/persuasion would release this section. In the end, I parted it off very carefully down one side of the brown paper and it all turned out well in the end. The thing is though, do you really need to use white PVA on paper joints and are the yellow aliphatic resin glues like titebond just too powerful? On some previous open segment work I have used PVA to glue the segments as any seepage that doesn’t get noticed and removed at the time is less evident when it dries. I had completely forgotten this when I started the build using TB2.