New build workshop...construction ideas

[Bobbins]

Hi,

I'm planning to have my shed/garage rebuilt into a proper workshop, this work will be carried out along side an extension to my house, so I'm hoping to get all the messy construction work done in one go and possibly save a little in the process.

It's going to be approx. 4m x 8m, have a flat roof, a couple of windows, side-door and a garage door. Now I'm not sure of the construction details or what is going to work out best value. I was thinking single breeze block and render construction and then dry-lined and insulate the interior. I was thinking that I could do dry-lining and insulation myself and save a bit more money.

Ideally I'd like a nice humidity stable work area (so projects don't go wonky overnight, and tools don't go rusty) - and somewhere that is reasonably easy to heat in the winter (current shed is punishingly cold and damp at times, roll on summer!).

Any suggestions or thoughts? Be interested to hear from those that have been here before me and speak from experience.

Thanks.

 

[tomf]

It really depends on lots of different factors.
What's your budget?
What are you ground conditions like, tree location etc?
Is the proposed site within 1meter of a boundary?
Are you doing it yourself, what skills do you already have etc.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Hi,
If possible have the foundations done at the same time as the house while the guys are there doing it. Let them do all the heavy work

Block, rendered, make sure its waterproof render (have you considered rain screen cladding) There is opportunity to put insulation outside the wall to save internal space. Personally I would go for a stud wall rather than just dry line it just in case any moisture makes it through the rendered wall.

Perhaps you could save some pennies and tackle the block laying too. especially if you have a couple of friendly builders on the extension. If its being rendered and lined it doesn't have to be pretty, just straight, square and plumb.

Plenty of inspiration on the forum, here's a few to aspire to.

workshop-design-well-it-s-a-build-really-t27865.html

new-workshop-build-with-a-difference-t44368.html

i-ve-finally-got-myself-shifted-t79315-960.html

Oh and in case you don't know pictures of the build are compulsory :wink:

 

[DBC]

Hi,

Over the years I've built one joinery building for myself from scratch and hired a few too as well as building four of five single/double garages/workshops for others who were part time/hobbyists/DIYers etc. The caveat on this is that all of these buildings were built in New Zealand where nearly all buildings are timber frame, often timber clad, and there tends to be a lot more empty space in back yards to extend into. Carpenter/joiners are also called builder's where I come from so I am not sure if all of my advice below meets the UK regs as I've never constructed a building over here. Anyway, here's my two cents for what its worth: feel free to ignore any or all of it.

You can't beat natural light especially when sanding or finishing. Plan your window opening so it casts light onto the work bench. Unless you already have a bench to measure off decide in advance the working height you like. This way if you like your bench against the wall you could incorporate your worktop into the window sill itself. If you want the bench away from the wall still plan your window sill to this height and leave it protruding an inch or two from the wall; you'll be amazed at how often you use it to rest things on for marking out longer lengths and so on.

Now that you know this working height make sure you put a couple of 240 outlets 100mm or so above it near your work bench, your saw bench, assembly table and so on. You will trip over cords a lot less this way. If you can afford it put in as many outlets in as you can; remember also that if you may one day, or already, need a 16 amp circuit; maybe even 3 phase.

If you can line the inner walls in WBP or spruce ply. More expensive I know but you did save on the plasterer. This will give you so much scope later for hanging up jigs, blades, girly calendars etc. Also, if left unpainted you'll see wood everywhere which looks great

If you are going to have stud walls think hard in advance and get loads of noggings in at handy heights.

A great space saver that i've used a lot before is to put 300mm ply shelving around the walls that finishes 6 inches over your head so you never walk into it and you get more floor space without so many lockers/shelves etc. Being a shorta##e I could always get at least a 500mm high shelf around the entire room this way. I don't actually do this in my current joinery though as these shelves can be real dust collectors that are constantly being stirred up as doors open and close etc.

Can you get your dust collector in an adjoining box or shed outside against an exterior wall. Your neighbours might not like it but if you can get away with it you will save on space and you won't mess the place up when changing bags.

Open your exterior door outwards if you can make it work to steal a bit more space.

I know you said you want a flat roof but if you can allow yourself at least 2.5m between FFL and the ceiling you won't be knocking things over all the time when you need to end for end one of the most common timber lenghts as you can just flip it over on the spot instead of having to whir it around the round horizontally like one of those guys doing the hammer throw.

My insurance company won't let me have one where I am now but I have twice before installed small second hand wood burning stoves in the workshop. Feed them on offcuts or shavings and you won't want to leave the place in winter.

If you've got the time the main thing I'd recommend is doing all the timber work in your new workshop yourself to save money. You say you will do the lining yourself but you could also hang all the doors, do the finishings etc. Maybe even price out a timber frame building rather than blockwork. Six sections of 4m by 2.5m frame isn't too much for one guy to drag around on his own. Once the floor is done, buy a big tarp, build all the frames on the ground at your leisure covering with a tarp at the end of the day and finish with a wall raising party for all your mates. You never know one of them might show an aptitude for it. Grab him quick. He can help you pitch the roof. This is a bit challenging if you've never done it before but there must be plenty of guys on this site who'd advise you. Of course, you need to have quite a bit of spare time and energy to do all the this but at least you'll know your local inspector well by the end of it.

Good luck with it anyway.

A good size workshop at home like yours will be is every woodworkers dream.

DBC

 

[RobinBHM]

If it is more 30sq metres internally you will need to do under building regulations and the spec will need to meet current regs.

Masonry walls are best constructed with a cavity or there is always risk of moisture penetration.

To create a room that is dry, the consruction needs to prevent penetration of moisture from rain on the outside and prevent condensation forming on the inside. Generally that means some form of cavity for preventing rain penetration from outside and a vapour barrier on the inside to prevent warm damp air reaching the cold side and forming condensation. The condensation issue is somewhat more complicated fir a workshop since it may not always be heated and could be colder inside!

If you want to use blockwork, you could do a single skin of blockwork, insulation outside, breather membrane, 50 x 25 tile battens, timber cladding. You then have a vented cavity where the tile battens are positioned. You can get boarding that can be rendered although I dont know the construction. If horizontal boarding is ok but you dont like the idea of timber and maintenance, there id the option of marley eternit boarding.

Alternatively the walls could be constructed in SIPS panels, expensive, but they have the insulation built in and construction is very quick, and maybe something you could do yourself. Seconds and Co supply sips if varying thicknesses.

I would suggest going to manufacturers sites such as tyvek, kingspan, celetex. They all have drawings showing wall construction.

Most construction detailing will relate to house building and insulation levels to current regs. They may be over the top for workshop construction, but understanding the detailing will help you design a workshop that is warm and dry.

I woild aim for a good thickness of insulation, you will end up with a workshop that can be used all the year round and will only need some background heat to be comfortable to work in

 

[custard]

I had a 80 sq metre workshop built at the same time as an extension. To keep down noise and maintain warmth it was built to domestic standards, cavity walls, double glazed, and an insulated ceiling, with a woodturner planned in from the beginning so the chimney was watertight. It's got two rooms, a concrete floored machine room and a wood floored bench room. I wish I'd not been so greedy about conserving space and had installed a sink, but apart from that it's worked out well. As Robin said, you don't need twenty plus degrees to be comfortable in winter, you're standing and working so far less is adequate as long as it's warm enough for glue to set and finishes to dry.

Good luck!

 

[artie]

you don't need twenty plus degrees to be comfortable in winter, you're standing and working so far less is adequate as long as it's warm enough for glue to set and finishes to dry.

Good luck!

I am quite comfortable down to around 10 deg. I go to the shop to work not stand around. Below 10 deg I put on a jacket. Below zero I work harder.

A few years back it got down to -18 for a few days. Being the wimp that I am I fired up a space heater.

 

[Matt@]

make sure you make the roof in such a way that is no condensation in winter.....