My 2nd bowl.

[PeterBassett]

Hi all.

This is my second completed bowl from wood turning class.

It's Oak, about 6 inches in diameter and 2 tall. Finished at 400 grit, sanding sealer and then a couple of coats of Woodwax 22.

Any and all comments welcome...

I personally think I put too much wax on the inside and I'll have to spend some more time buffing.

I like the shape of the outside but the inside is too shallow. I thought the chucking recess was deeper than it is so stopped quite a bit short of full depth. Maybe 1/2 inch.

Also we still don't have anything but a simple chuck and face places to work with so I don't know how to get rid of the chucking recess. Any ideas?

What would you recommend or sharpening my turning tools? I've got a simple high speed grinder but just the plain wheels.

I'm getting to quite like this wood turning lark! I've even got an order for a salad bowl from a friend of the wifes!

Edit : Got the photos working.

Pete

 

[Lightweeder]

I think this is really nice Pete. Appealing shape.

Someone with a bit of experience will probably answer your question about removing the chucking foot, but I would use a large flat plate on the headstock - I've got an old breadboard I've cut grooves into - along with some routing mat, or similar, and bring up the tailstock for support. Assuming you have no cole jaws, or such.

If you're as new to this game as I am, you could do with some help sharpening your tools. I put off as long as I could but finally invested in a Woodcut Tru-Grind Jig. It's revolutionised my turning. See what the others say.

LW

 

[bobham]

Hi, Peter:
To my eye the base looks a bit too wide, but that can easily be remedied while turning off the chucking recess. It looks like you got a very nice finish on the oak, which is not one of the easier woods to get a good finish on.

To remove the chucking recess you could try something like this:

It is just a flat disk with a resilient foam facing used as a friction drive. The disk does not have to be that big. The rim of a smaller disk could seat inside the bowl rather than having the bowl rim seat against the face of the disk.

Once you have re-shaped and sanded the bowl bottom you can remove the piece from the lathe and saw/pare off the remaining stub where the tail centre was seated.

Good Luck!
Bob

 

[CHJ]

I should not worry too much about the shallow inner surface Peter, although not providing maximum holding volume, in some instances the shallow depression can be a better display platform.

As far as the woodwax22 is concerned I don't think you can apply too much, it just burnishes off to its stable thickness.

What you may have with the Oak if it has open surface pores is surplus wax collecting in them, this will show up as white flecks as the solvent dries out over time.

I personally have a preference for shellac sealer (or friction polish used as sealer) on Oak as opposed to other sanding sealers or in addition to them. I find it fills any grain voids during burnishing that helps avoid trapped wax and gives me a finish I prefer.

 

[Bodrighy]

One method to 'hide' the recess is to turn a disc the same diameter and depth in a contrasting wood and glue in. This can be decorated with rings or whatever if wished.

Pete

 

[loz]

My favourate Ogee !

To get rid of that recess, do what Bob said, maybe use some tape ( i find electical tape is kinder than masking tape in this instance ) also - or cling film to secure and you can withdraw the tail stock altogether !

Nice shape, but I think the base is a tad too wide, ( just my opinion ! )

More reversing options here



http://www.ptwoodturners.org/Tips and Handouts/Methods and Jigs for Reverse Turning Bowls.pdf

 

[PeterBassett]

Hi.

Thanks for the comments everyone.

Lightweeder & bobham : Yes, we do have a tailstock with revolving centre so I expect that is my only option. I think I'll have to talk the tutor into it though!

bobham : The base is too wide yes, funny you should say that, I broke the original base off on the lathe at is was too thin. Luckily I had not done too much on the face side and I could to turn the original broken base down. This made the base wider. Still not sure it would have been thin enough even before the damage though.

CHJ : I dount think I've burnished it enough in that case then. It's a little dull. I don't have any white flakes but it isn't as shiney as the base, which I didn't put as many coats on. Friction polish may be something to try in the future, cheers.

bodrighy : This is actually my third bowl really, but I haven't finished the second one yet and that one will have a foot made in much the same way as what you describe. Hopefully it'll work out.

I'll admit that a good amount of sanding at 120 was needed to get rid of tearout before I could go up the grades. I really need to get on top of sharpening, but it could also be technique problems. Ah, it's all good fun.

Woodcut Tru Grind : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eP8R_rgbL5A Looks like a good bit of kit. The bible stuff at the end of the vid was a bit of a surprise though! ;-) Lightweeder, where did you get yours from?

Loz : Thanks for the link, I'll have to read it tonight...

Cheers all.

Pete

 

[loz]

Friction polish may be something to try in the future, cheers.

Not on a bowl though ! - nmver will get it to look nice, FP best on the small objects.

 

[CHJ]

..CHJ : I dount think I've burnished it enough in that case then. It's a little dull. I don't have any white flakes but it isn't as shiney as the base, which I didn't put as many coats on. Friction polish may be something to try in the future, cheers.
....

If the wood is sealed then one wipe over with Woodwax22 should be all that is needed., are you burnishing the sealer?
Don't want to tread on the toes of anything your instructor is showing but have a look at This Thread, half way down is an example of waxing a piece of Chestnut, not too dissimilar to the Oak.

 

[CHJ]

Friction polish may be something to try in the future, cheers.

Not on a bowl though ! - nmver will get it to look nice, FP best on the small objects.

______
________Used as a sealer and burnished by hand as in the example above with sanding sealer.____Click on images for larger view.
________
________ __
________ __

 

[loz]

Friction polish may be something to try in the future, cheers.

Not on a bowl though ! - nmver will get it to look nice, FP best on the small objects.

______
________Used as a sealer and burnished by hand as in the example above with sanding sealer.____Click on images for larger view.
________
________ __
________ __

Fair point ! and nice result,

- However - when used as per the directions on the tin/Chestnut site/Alan holtham dvd etc ( as us noobs might do... ) it wont turn out nice on larger diameter peices, and looks best ( if applied as per directions ) on spindle items.

Typing specifically a noob, and assuming that fellow noobs wont have as much finishing experience as some other members. - Starying simple and then building onto basics.........Oil for bowls, FP for Xmas decorations !

L

 

[CHJ]

[.........Oil for bowls, FP for Xmas decorations !

L

Just take care with Oil on Bowls, if not allowed to dry thoroughly before use or passing on as presents, oil finishes can mark fine furniture finishes if placed on a polished surface without a mat.
The fact that the base is not exposed to free air flow when standing naturally adds to the problem.

I had a bowl (turned by someone else) sent to me for remedial action that had been finished in Tung Oil as far as I could determine. It was placed in a position where it received some sun warming and had stuck to their sideboard seriously marking the french polish finish.

 

[loz]

Thanks for the advice Chas, Something i hadn't thought of.

Not many highly polished surfaces in our family at the moment though with the number of toddlers running round with crayons, and chocolate caked hands !

Joy...................

 

[Paul.J]

Nice looking second bowl Pete
Lovely looking Oak,and looks to be well finished.
One good reason for keeping the recess on is that you can remount it if needed.