mounting a circular saw in a home made table any kits ??

[micks]

hello all have bog standard b&Q circular saw and wish to mount this in a home made table for ease of use, i am aware of products like easy way and the australian product that mounts saw ,router etc in proprietry bench.

cannot seem to find info ideas how to mount saw, the saw moter is long so cutting a hole in table as if mounting a router seems not the way to go.

i laid saw on a piece of mdf,hieght of flange for circsaw sole plate is 7mm,so cut four pieces of wood with 7mm rebate, surrounded saw on three sides and affixed with tek nuts and bolts, used fourth piece of wood to enclose saw base.

had to cut a slot in mdf to allow the saw guard to come up through table, in practise found the wieght of moter to pull the saw blade out of square with top of table (the blade not quite verticle) made a bracket to pull blade square.

this is all a bit heath robinson so is there a mounting kit or better idea for mounting a c/saw drilling sole plate etc.

thank you

 

[SketchUp Guru]

Micks, you said the weight of the motor pulled the blade out of square. Why? What moved? Did the MDF bend under the weight? Or did the flex occur between the saw and its own base? Or was it the entire saw shifting under your mounting pieces?

As far as mounting it, why not drill holes through the plate and the MDF for machine screws? The holes won't hurt anything if you make sure to smooth away any burr on the bottom surface so it doesn't scratch when you run the saw normally.

You could do a couple of things with that. Countersink flat head screws in from the top with nuts and washers against the saw's base. Flat head screws would help to center the saw as you draw them up.

You could also set tee nuts or other threaded inserts into the top and run the screws in from below.

I'd be inclined to create a new guard for the blade and not use the built in one at all. You could then make a simple zero clearance insert to run the blade up through.

If you use flathead screws to mount the the saw so that the blade always comes up in the same place, you could add a mitre gauge slot.

Mount the saw on a piece of 12mm MDF and then build up another layer of MDF around the saw so that most of the table is 1 inch thick.

If you need a drawing or two for clarification, I might be able to whip something up.

 

[Chris Knight]

Micks,

Years ago I had a B&D circular saw attachment for an electric drill that could be fitted to a small table.

The table itself was a steel sheet, about 3mm thick and about a foot square, fixed on pressed steel legs. The saw fixture was a a sort of cleat with a lip that captured one end of the saw's baseplate and at the other end there was a spring loaded clip that did likewise but which could be pushed back with a thumb, to release the saw.

Not a great machine IIRC.

 

[micks]

thanks dave r waterhead the saw is mounted on 19mm mdf affixed on 4 sides with m6 countersunk screws going into 3/4 wood ,used tee nuts for ease of use.

it seems to be the wieght of saw slightly tilting the blade when mounted, i made a bracket to take 2 bolts which go through mdf top and pull moterupwards a tad ,checked all was square, first cut on scrap ok,second cut slightly out.

however what i had not considered was putting a bracket round the moter,stops me from altering the depth of cut, as the moter housing needs to be raised/lowered to do this, so need differant solution,

i have searched on internet for saw mounting kit but cannot find anything apart from easy way kit. this does not suite my saw, i inquired some time back.

thanks all

 

[devonwoody]

S/H Triton tables are reasonably priced and also they are very practical, I have had my kit 3 years now and it never failed during that time. Also its mobility and collapseable tributes are a real boon.

(PS I've got one for sale ,( ) and could give it a personal guarantee.

ps how do you spell collapseable?

 

[Anonymous]

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