Martin's Small Work Shed

[MikeG.]

Can you slip an off-cut of DPM in between the end of the joist/ hanger and the blockwork? There's a possible route into the end of the joist for damp there.

 

[martin.a.ball]

Can you slip an off-cut of DPM in between the end of the joist/ hanger and the blockwork? There's a possible route into the end of the joist for damp there.

Yes, I can and will.

I was wondering about the gap as I fixed them. Each joist is cut a few mm short to allow for a bit of movement and the hanger tends to be away from the blockwork. This photo shows it a little better.

But its mighty close and bit of DPC would be a good idea. I did briefly consider swapping the weed membrane for a damp proof membrane and wrapping up the sides of the blockwork, but that would probably be overkill.

 

[Obi Wan Kenobi]

Coming along nicely Martin. Looks very professional.

OWK ccasion5:

 

[martin.a.ball]

Coming along nicely Martin. Looks very professional.

OWK ccasion5:

thanks for the comments. I've not built anything on this scale before so the build threads here, especially Mike's, have been invaluable. There are probably more photos than some folk need in this thread, but I'm finding it is the silly questions that take time to figure out, for example I'd not heard of jiffy style hangers or needed to use galvanized builder's strap before.

Next step, framing for the walls.

 

[Obi Wan Kenobi]

thanks for the comments. I've not built anything on this scale before so the build threads here, especially Mike's, have been invaluable. There are probably more photos than some folk need in this thread, but I'm finding it is the silly questions that take time to figure out, for example I'd not heard of jiffy style hangers or needed to use galvanized builder's strap before.

Next step, framing for the walls.

Don't forget, a picture - or photo - can paint a thousand words, and the questions aren't silly if you don't know #-o Roll on framing the walls ............... :wink:

Obi Wan ccasion5:

 

[martin.a.ball]

Having read a few threads there appear to be a differing thoughts on screws or nails for framing. I've decided to go down the screw route mainly because it will be easier to correct any mistakes, but also because I have a cordless drill and don't have a nailer.

I'm going to give these a go, from Screwfix again, but I'm open to suggestions from others because the number of options is huge.

 

[Obi Wan Kenobi]

I use these for most everything now and have not had any problems such as cam out https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p47468 I've not noticed any corrosion on anything out doors.

OWK ccasion5:

 

[Bm101]

Hi Martin. I'm not a professional builder of hobby sheds blah blah usual disclaimer etc etc etc.. but have you considered the use of ensele or similar. It's for use with treated timber when you cut new endgrain or expose untreated timber by cutting past the barrier of pressure treatment.
Many years back we used to use a dark blue one for decking at work that dried clear. I forget the brand. Dry timber in hot weather will soak it up like celery. Great stuff.
Quick Google shows options by osmo, sika or ronseal. No nonsense 'trade' products seem to be ok in my Ltd on a budget but a 12 quid pot of osmo or sika would be my buy. Just personal preference when investing time and money... why mess about to save 2 quid.
BTW. Steer clear of the Chestnut product Endseal. It's for a different situation.
Enjoying the build. Keep up the posts!

Regards
Chris

 

[martin.a.ball]

have you considered the use of ensele or similar. It's for use with treated timber when you cut new endgrain or expose untreated timber by cutting past the barrier of pressure treatment.

Hi Chris. Short answer is no, it wasn't something I considered. As the next couple of posts will show I've started the framing for the walls and there are very little exposed end timber, so its something I'll dig into as I guess it will a bigger issue for the roof rafters which will be exposed to the elements.

Open to comments from others which end timber they thought needed treatment.

Martin

 

[martin.a.ball]

On to the walls. I'm still not particularly clear on the benefits of sawn v PAR v CLS but decided to go with 50 x 100mm CLS C16 as I've seen others use it and it appeared to be much straighter when picking it out at the timber yard. Whilst the plan is to fully insulate walls in the future, I can live with this framing in the mean time.

The longer sides walls have a double stud at either end, then studs at 610mm centers so I can use 1220mm OSB sheets on the inside. You might remember the longer sides walls are 3.6m, I forgot to add the additional length for the double stub at either end, I think it would have been better to make them 3.8m to match 3 full sheets of OSB.

One of the nice parts of this build is I've managed to do everything on my own in short bursts. I finally gave in and had my son help me stand up the first two walls. This was relatively easy having taken the time to level the sole plate, there are a couple of temporary battens just to hold it square until the front is added.

 

[MikeG.]

If you put a temporary brace on top of the top plates, linking two adjacent walls together, you'll be amazed how that stiffens the whole thing up.

 

[martin.a.ball]

Three walls completed, braced in the corners as per Mike's suggestion and remarkably solid. Lottie approves having given it all a good sniff.

Front wall is going to be higher to allow the roof to slope from front to back and includes a door and window which I'm still searching for on gumtree and ebay.

 

[E-wan]

Having read a few threads there appear to be a differing thoughts on screws or nails for framing. I've decided to go down the screw route mainly because it will be easier to correct any mistakes, but also because I have a cordless drill and don't have a nailer.

I'm going to give these a go, from Screwfix again, but I'm open to suggestions from others because the number of options is huge.

View attachment 20180615

I find the screws good if a little pricey. They come with their own specific driver bit and I've never had any issues with stripping the head even on very large and long screws.

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Bullet- ... 9/p/884060

Enjoying seeing progress of your workshop

Ewan

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[martin.a.ball]

Bargain from gumtree. Complete door with frame and working lock and key. The glass has been removed to transport but is sitting safely in my garage. Its needs a clean and then I'll spray it grey as has been covered in a couple of other threads.

I've no idea how to make sure the frame is watertight in the timber frame. Do you put flashing on the timber frame and then seal the PVC frame to the flashing?

 

[martin.a.ball]

Progress has slowed up whilst I source a window from gumtree. I made a start on the front wall frame, given I don't know the final stud positions until I've found a window so they will be toe nailed in place later.

The fall from front to back is close to 300mm over 2.4m, so approx 1 in 8.

 

[martin.a.ball]

Took a few days to find a window the right size. Another bargain off gumtree.

 

[pollys13]

Besides the window you found on Gumtree if need any again could try Freecycle.

 

[martin.a.ball]

I have a mate who is a carpenter and I'm all for listening to people who do the job every day as they often have tricks that save a lot of time. His view was you can spend a lot of time fiddling with door and window frames trying to get a 5mm gap all round, so as this is only a shed he suggested:-

1. Put in a stud, make sure it is vertical
2. Clamp the door frame to the stud
3. Put a second stud against the door frame, make sure it is vertical
4. Fix the second stud in place

Made sense to me so here is the door frame going in :-

And the same process repeated for the window frame :-

Starting to get a feel for the front of the shed now.

 

[Graaz0r]

Looking good !

I know when I put the door into my old outbuilding I doubled the timber on either side of the door, lot of weight and stress by opening it etc so may be worth considering for the sake of a few pounds!

Coming on nicely though, look forward to some more pictures !

 

[MikeG.]

Hmmm.....

Your lintel seems to be sitting straight on top of the door frame. It should be supported on cripple studs, with full height studs alongside. At the moment, the forces from the roof will go straight into the top of your door. Same with your window.