Just another box, but it’s my first one.

[Joe1975]

Newbie here. I’ve have made a pencil tray before (I got the dovetails the wrong way round - the pins were much wider than the tails!) but otherwise this is my first attempt at making something ‘nice’.
It’s about 6” x 4”. It’s ALL hand tools because I don’t have any machines. I used a Stanley no5, a couple of Japanese saws, an old Stanley Chisel, a combination square, a marking gauge, a homemade dovetail marker, a shooting board, and a pencil. It’s finished with Danish oil.

I would love some critique (don’t hold back) about the design and execution. I learned a lot from making it. Not sure what woods I’ve used, maybe European oak and Sapele, and something else. They’re just off cuts someone gave to me.
Would have been nice to have been able to make the detail in the lid out of the same wood as the box. The lid is arguably a bit bulky, what do you think?

 

[ajs]

You have some nice tight joints there, only question would be the end grain on the lid, seems to have saw marks still visible, or it that just the photo? It would probably have been easy enough to clean up before finishing. The thickness of the lid is what is it is, it's neither right nor wrong, yes it could be slimmer but that would change the character of the box.

 

[Bingy man]

I think given you only have hand tools + it’s your 1st attempt or even 2nd you have done well , probs not perfect but it’s not important imo . Getting stuck in and giving it a go is what counts in my book .

 

[Blister]

For a first go I give that a big

 

[Blackswanwood]

Looks good - well done. The different woods used work well together.

One thing worth considering is using a groove to contain the base. A mitred dovetail sounds quite complicated but it’s not and this link discusses some other methods.



Cheers

 

[benitod]

No criticism

 

[Adam W.]

You have some nice tight joints there, only question would be the end grain on the lid, seems to have saw marks still visible, or it that just the photo? It would probably have been easy enough to clean up before finishing. The thickness of the lid is what is it is, it's neither right nor wrong, yes it could be slimmer but that would change the character of the box.

It's the ray parenchyma that you can see on the end grain which looks like saw marks.

 

[recipio]

Full marks for a first attempt. Just to know that there is a difference between 'boxes ' and 'fine boxes '. Your dimensions are a little bulky - try and refine the walls and lid down to about 12 mm . Thinner dovetails would look nicer and let the base into a groove to hide it.
Separate lids are often used especially in Japanese inspired boxes with overhanging lids but most people prefer a lid that is cut off from the box for grain coherence and a flush fit. Alas that probably means acquiring power tools ! Keep it up.

 

[worker]

Looks fantastic, the lid doesn't look out of place although it's worth experimenting with slimmer ones. How did you find working with that wood species? I have similar offcuts that someone threw in for free and find it quite prone to tearout.

 

[Graham Brazier]

Very nice, I like it, nice work

 

[Joe1975]

You have some nice tight joints there, only question would be the end grain on the lid, seems to have saw marks still visible, or it that just the photo? It would probably have been easy enough to clean up before finishing. The thickness of the lid is what is it is, it's neither right nor wrong, yes it could be slimmer but that would change the character of the box.

Thank you. If you are talking about the light coloured widely spaced lines at about 40 degrees they are part of the grain. They’re a bit unusual aren’t they?
There’s definitely no saw marks because I created the bevel by raising the opposite side on a shooting board. It was a nightmare trying to plane across that much end grain!

 

[Joe1975]

Looks good - well done. The different woods used work well together.

One thing worth considering is using a groove to contain the base. A mitred dovetail sounds quite complicated but it’s not and this link discusses some other methods.



Cheers

Thank you so much, I’ll definitely try to hide the base on another box. This base is the same thickness as the lid and chiselled down around the edges to give a more aesthetic appearance of a thin base.
Not sure I’m up to mitred dovetails just yet but will keep them in mind for when I improve.
Cheers

 

[Joe1975]

Full marks for a first attempt. Just to know that there is a difference between 'boxes ' and 'fine boxes '. Your dimensions are a little bulky - try and refine the walls and lid down to about 12 mm . Thinner dovetails would look nicer and let the base into a groove to hide it.
Separate lids are often used especially in Japanese inspired boxes with overhanging lids but most people prefer a lid that is cut off from the box for grain coherence and a flush fit. Alas that probably means acquiring power tools ! Keep it up.

This is brilliant feedback, thank you. The walls are 9mm, and the lid and base are 15mm (I thought the lid was a bit bulky). I’m a long way off in terms of craftman ship from producing a ‘fine’ box!
I shall aim for thinner pins with my dovetails next time, is that what you mean or are you suggesting the tails are too wide?
I need to try a flush lid sometime but it will be a challenge to get a decent cut by hand.
Thank you so much for your comments, just the sort of thing I was wanting.

 

[Joe1975]

Looks fantastic, the lid doesn't look out of place although it's worth experimenting with slimmer ones. How did you find working with that wood species? I have similar offcuts that someone threw in for free and find it quite prone to tearout.

Yes the lighter wood is incredibly hard, and very difficult to plane. If it was easier I would have planed 2-3mm off the lid. I did loose a little chunk off the corner which was annoying.

 

[recipio]

This is brilliant feedback, thank you. The walls are 9mm, and the lid and base are 15mm (I thought the lid was a bit bulky). I’m a long way off in terms of craftman ship from producing a ‘fine’ box!

Blow me down I could have sworn the sides were about 15 mm. I suggest 12 mm as side rail hinges are 8 mm wide and fit on the sidewall with a little to spare. Multiple dovetails will thin the tails a little - more work of course.
Fine boxes are inherited from the Georgian tea caddy era - see Andrew Crawford's boxes for exquisite craftsmanship. His are mainly veneered and French polished - another set of skills to be acquired.

 

[simonkbike]

You have some nice tight joints there, only question would be the end grain on the lid, seems to have saw marks still visible, or it that just the photo? It would probably have been easy enough to clean up before finishing. The thickness of the lid is what is it is, it's neither right nor wrong, yes it could be slimmer but that would change the character of the box.

Another newbie and this is way beyond my talents so well done! More question than suggestion: if you think the lid looks too thick, would a shallow chamfer on the underside of the lid reduce the perceived thickness without the problem of hand planing the whole face?

 

[throbscottle]

It's 1000x nicer than anything I've ever made! I love the chunky bevelled lid - it gives it an almost oriental look.

 

[Joe1975]

Another newbie and this is way beyond my talents so well done! More question than suggestion: if you think the lid looks too thick, would a shallow chamfer on the underside of the lid reduce the perceived thickness without the problem of hand planing the whole face?

Nice idea but the lid only overhangs a few mm’s so it would effect the fitting of the lid.

 

[Joe1975]

It's 1000x nicer than anything I've ever made! I love the chunky bevelled lid - it gives it an almost oriental look.

Thank you for your kind comment, I really wasn’t fishing.

 

[Pabs]

nice. have you any pics of the process?
was the wood pre-planed or did you do that?