http://youtu.be/scEJxoBaLeI
Apologies if somebody has already posted this video.
Apologies if somebody has already posted this video.
custard":2r1gqs3q said:Thanks for posting that, I enjoyed watching it.
It struck me that you'd need to be a very, very accomplished craftsman to use a Japanese plane. Even if you bought a plane body matched to the iron, by the time it arrived in this country it would almost certainly have warped slightly because of our very different climate, so to get the iron to fit perfectly, and keep it there over time, would require pretty impressive skill levels. Not a plane for woodworking beginners!
custard":2rx0z1wc said:Thanks for posting that, I enjoyed watching it.
It struck me that you'd need to be a very, very accomplished craftsman to use a Japanese plane. Even if you bought a plane body matched to the iron, by the time it arrived in this country it would almost certainly have warped slightly because of our very different climate, so to get the iron to fit perfectly, and keep it there over time, would require pretty impressive skill levels. Not a plane for woodworking beginners!
I wouldn't agree with this. I always think it's better to use locally grown timber if you can.MIGNAL":190t8gm5 said:It has nothing to do with the timber, where it was grown or little to do with where the plane was made. You just need to allow the wood to settle in your ambient humidity and then fettle the plane. Then again it's not as though the UK has one fixed humidty level all year. It varies, from day to day. Usually it's higher in the summer than winter, as a general guide. This winter has proved to be 50 - 60% RH winter, more like late spring, summer or early autumn.
Interesting that you uses Japanese Oak as an example. It's because of this timber I started down the line of local timber for local work.MIGNAL":tm5fs38g said:Well as a musical instrument maker I regularly use wood from around the world. Ebony from India and Africa, Rosewood from India (I stopped using Brazilian long time ago) and a few other exotics that I'm slowly using less of. These are thin sawn veneer type timbers that are much more susceptible to cracks and humidity changes. In my experience it's the type of cut, the nature of the wood itself and any inbuilt tensions that make it either suitable or unsuitable. Ebony probably isn't the best timber to use as Plane material. That has more to do with how it readily reacts to changes in humidity. The numbers for tangential movement ect. are out there. I suspect that the Japanese Oak is much better suited than Ebony. It really doesn't matter if it's 75% RH in Tokyo or 75% RH in Tooting, the wood will react the same.
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