DaveL
Established Member
Hi Paul,
Here are your pictures, you need to link directly to the .jpg files
Here are your pictures, you need to link directly to the .jpg files
Inca Table Saw Restoration
- Thread starter jimi43
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paulbelgrado
New member
Thanks DaveL for putting on the pictures .
Jim ,
I started to restore the Inca universal today .
I took it apart and cleaned it . The table of my machine is made out of cast iron ( grauguss in german ) . They probably made two versions .
The extension part is made out of aluminium .
On the pictures you can see the longer rails that connect everything with the wing nuts .
I bought some hammerite today ( grey , green , black ) and I'll be touching up the machine in the next weeks .
I sanded the rusty worktable with my orbital sander . ( 120 - 320 ) after that I used steel wool and brasso to make it better .
The sides are still rusty and the bottom also . I'll probably give it a coat of grey silver hammerite to protect it from rusting .
The wooden table + wiring needs some work too .
All the iron support bars etc will be done in black . In the old caltalogs it seemed to be done that way or it might just have been uncorroded iron .
It really is a very well made machine .
Today I went to see another machine , an Inca Major .
It was for sale here in the Brussels area .
The condition was quite good so I got my last pocket money and bought it ( early christmas presents ). One thing that was missing was the fence . I got the mortising attachment with it though . i'll probably get the few missing parts from switzerland when the machine is restored and when I saved up some money.
I'll post some photo's in the next week or so .
I think I was infected with the INCA virus this week , I never imagined finding saws like this . They seem to be quite rare even when you look worldwide .
Greetings ,
Paul
Jim ,
I started to restore the Inca universal today .
I took it apart and cleaned it . The table of my machine is made out of cast iron ( grauguss in german ) . They probably made two versions .
The extension part is made out of aluminium .
On the pictures you can see the longer rails that connect everything with the wing nuts .
I bought some hammerite today ( grey , green , black ) and I'll be touching up the machine in the next weeks .
I sanded the rusty worktable with my orbital sander . ( 120 - 320 ) after that I used steel wool and brasso to make it better .
The sides are still rusty and the bottom also . I'll probably give it a coat of grey silver hammerite to protect it from rusting .
The wooden table + wiring needs some work too .
All the iron support bars etc will be done in black . In the old caltalogs it seemed to be done that way or it might just have been uncorroded iron .
It really is a very well made machine .
Today I went to see another machine , an Inca Major .
It was for sale here in the Brussels area .
The condition was quite good so I got my last pocket money and bought it ( early christmas presents ). One thing that was missing was the fence . I got the mortising attachment with it though . i'll probably get the few missing parts from switzerland when the machine is restored and when I saved up some money.
I'll post some photo's in the next week or so .
I think I was infected with the INCA virus this week , I never imagined finding saws like this . They seem to be quite rare even when you look worldwide .
Greetings ,
Paul
jimi43
Established Member
Hi Frugal....yes - if I find the correct "Startrite" metallic hammerite green spray I will post it here. I have a feeling that it MUST be available somewhere as there are so very many Startrite machines out there.
My source is the dealer in Kent...he is not trading anymore but he appears at bootfairs here and has literally HUNDREDS of bits for machine tools spread out over a tarpaulin. I hope the weather holds out and the fair is on so I can ask him
Paul...nice job you did there mate...steel is probably going to come up better than cast aluminium - I always find it does anyway.
The pictures are great thankyou...and as for the "Inca Virus" well...I must have it too because I only started out on this road with my bootfair find and now I am totally obsessed with them!
I am now looking for a mortice attachment for mine...
Would love to see more pictures....keep in touch!
Jim
My source is the dealer in Kent...he is not trading anymore but he appears at bootfairs here and has literally HUNDREDS of bits for machine tools spread out over a tarpaulin. I hope the weather holds out and the fair is on so I can ask him
Paul...nice job you did there mate...steel is probably going to come up better than cast aluminium - I always find it does anyway.
The pictures are great thankyou...and as for the "Inca Virus" well...I must have it too because I only started out on this road with my bootfair find and now I am totally obsessed with them!
I am now looking for a mortice attachment for mine...
Would love to see more pictures....keep in touch!
Jim
I wonder if Bruce Pollard still has any Inca-related stuff? He ran Woodworking Machines of Switzerland who were the Inca agents in the UK until the business folded in the 1990s. I imagine all the stock went at the subsequent auction, but it's possible he kept some. His family still run Pollards ironmongers and cleaning supplies in Fenny Stratford, so it's possible he could be contacted via them.
The Inca saw is similar to the Coronet Consort in many ways; beautifully made, but to my mind, a basically flawed design with the tilting table.
The Inca saw is similar to the Coronet Consort in many ways; beautifully made, but to my mind, a basically flawed design with the tilting table.
jimi43
Established Member
Thanks again Dick. I will try that source.
On the subject of the tilting table...I never need to cut angles like that and if I did I would do it on my Scheppach so the table is set at 90 deg and left there. Raising and lowering the table does not seem to affect this setting which is amazing considering the table is moved!
All in all this is a beautiful bit of kit which isn't made for cutting 8x4 sheets...probably useless if you are allergic to sawdust ( :roll: ) and wouldn't meet health and safety requirements in Nigeria...BUT...
...it does what it does and it does it brilliantly...
Apart from the VERY expensive kit around today, again made in Europe...I would use one of these over most machines and it is super handy for those "little quick" cuts that we all do 90% of the time.
I put these things up there with the UNIMAT model lathe (I WANT ONE!) and the likes...which, whilst quirky are much sought after for good reason..they do the job and do it well.
Cheers
Jim
On the subject of the tilting table...I never need to cut angles like that and if I did I would do it on my Scheppach so the table is set at 90 deg and left there. Raising and lowering the table does not seem to affect this setting which is amazing considering the table is moved!
All in all this is a beautiful bit of kit which isn't made for cutting 8x4 sheets...probably useless if you are allergic to sawdust ( :roll: ) and wouldn't meet health and safety requirements in Nigeria...BUT...
...it does what it does and it does it brilliantly...
Apart from the VERY expensive kit around today, again made in Europe...I would use one of these over most machines and it is super handy for those "little quick" cuts that we all do 90% of the time.
I put these things up there with the UNIMAT model lathe (I WANT ONE!) and the likes...which, whilst quirky are much sought after for good reason..they do the job and do it well.
Cheers
Jim
Benchwayze
Established Member
My Gawd, he saw you coming. £15.00 for a load of junk? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Seriously, I bet if he ever sees the finished item, he will be testing the waters for a bit of a rebate! You did good, and your graft should see you well for a few years now.
I used a horizontal morticer on my Coronet Major for years. There were special milling cutters to go with the arbour, but I can't say it ever worried me. I just knew to keep clear of the revolving cutter, and never to wear floppy sleeves!
All the best
John
Seriously, I bet if he ever sees the finished item, he will be testing the waters for a bit of a rebate! You did good, and your graft should see you well for a few years now.
I used a horizontal morticer on my Coronet Major for years. There were special milling cutters to go with the arbour, but I can't say it ever worried me. I just knew to keep clear of the revolving cutter, and never to wear floppy sleeves!
All the best
John
With you there, Jimi - I only got rid of my much modified Consort because I got a VERY cheap Lurem Universal which is still being modified after 20 years regular workjimi43":iex4404z said:
The Unimat is a real gem - bought one of the old 1200 models very reasonably for my daughter to use for her jewellry making. She took it back to the States and now almost has to fend off the technicians at work who want to make accessories for it. But if the motor blows up, it will cost considerably more than the lathe to replace
jimi43
Established Member
Hi Dick
I am constantly on the lookout for a good one and your comments are valued.
Do you think that the 1200 is the better vintage? How does this compare to other Unimat models up to today's model?
Why is the motor an issue? Surely any suitable motor in size or HP would suffice in the unlikely event that you have a total motor failure.
IMHO...if a motor burns out then the lathe has been strained somewhat. Brushes can be replaced and commutators and bearings skimmed and replaced. Apart from that a total winding failure SHOULD be an unlikely even if the lathe is being used correctly. No?
Jim
I am constantly on the lookout for a good one and your comments are valued.
Do you think that the 1200 is the better vintage? How does this compare to other Unimat models up to today's model?
Why is the motor an issue? Surely any suitable motor in size or HP would suffice in the unlikely event that you have a total motor failure.
IMHO...if a motor burns out then the lathe has been strained somewhat. Brushes can be replaced and commutators and bearings skimmed and replaced. Apart from that a total winding failure SHOULD be an unlikely even if the lathe is being used correctly. No?
Jim
frugal
Established Member
jimi43":18uyosxb said:
I was just having a look on the Hammerite site and as well as the standard 7 colours in the hammered selection they do radiator paint in any of the 1200 colours in the Dulux range (they are al made by ICL). I wonder if the Radiator pain would be good enough to protect it from rust in the workshop...
jimi43
Established Member
frugal":34he7xhx said:
Hammerite also make a "Mid Green" Metallic Hammered finish...which looks to me to be almost an exact match. I can't seem to find it in spray though and the LAST thing I am going to put through any of my sprayguns is Hammerite...it is a total B*&ST**D to clean out!
If you see any anywhere let me know.
Jim
Billy Bodge
New member
Nice job. I also have one to restore but the riving knife is missing. Could you email me a sketch / pattern of outline so I can make one up. :wink:
jimi43
Established Member
Billy Bodge":18gjcdn6 said:
Thanks for the comments on this rather old thread. As you are only in Ashford...perhaps you might want to come over sometime to see mine and have a look at the various things that might help you in your restoration. Word of warning...if your table top is not too badly damaged....don't rub it down just clean it off...as it is galvanised and any abrasion will remove this.
Having said that...it hasn't tarnished yet...in over two years.
A PDF of the riving knife is on the thread P2 but I have re-linked it HERE
Hope this helps.
Jim
Billy Bodge
New member
Thanks for sketch. I had a look at mine and the table is Aluminium and I don't think it was ever machined to take knife. The casting under the table certainly hasn't been drilled to take anything. Perhaps I am running to big a blade. Where are you in Kent?
Might have some luck here. http://incamachines.com/english
you are almost certainly going to struggle to get one. At best, you may be able to get something, and make it fit the inca.
good luck with the search, but dont bet your last pound on finding an inca one.
good luck with the search, but dont bet your last pound on finding an inca one.
Deadeye
Established Member
Hello
First post!
I too have picked up a battered Inca for a song and want to restore it.
The difference to the earlier posters is that
a) I am pretty clueless about all steps of restoration (just coming to retirement so it's been interest at a distance until now)
b) I'm even more clueless about machinery
However
c) I am relentlessly optimistic and
d) a pretty quick learner.
This weekend I'm going to take it apart and start scrubbing. I'd really appreciate being in touch with Jimi about the breakdown steps if he's willing?
On blades I found Axminster do a 30mm to 15mm reducing washer, and also I found a 17mm blade with 30mm bore... so was hoping to use that combination to replace the rather tired one in the machine currently.
A couple of questions to start me off (and will evidence points a and b above fullsomely):
- For the ironwork (stand etc.) should I just go with sandpaper, seek out a sandblasting service, or dip in citrate or similar?
- If the above feeble attempt to avoid elbow grease fails, what sort of sandpaper should I buy?
- For the aluminium, I assume sandpaper - again what type (I understand a set of grades, it's more a recommendation of what/where to buy)?
Thanks
I'll post pictures when I work out how and have made at least a little progress!
John (in Bucks)
First post!
I too have picked up a battered Inca for a song and want to restore it.
The difference to the earlier posters is that
a) I am pretty clueless about all steps of restoration (just coming to retirement so it's been interest at a distance until now)
b) I'm even more clueless about machinery
However
c) I am relentlessly optimistic and
d) a pretty quick learner.
This weekend I'm going to take it apart and start scrubbing. I'd really appreciate being in touch with Jimi about the breakdown steps if he's willing?
On blades I found Axminster do a 30mm to 15mm reducing washer, and also I found a 17mm blade with 30mm bore... so was hoping to use that combination to replace the rather tired one in the machine currently.
A couple of questions to start me off (and will evidence points a and b above fullsomely):
- For the ironwork (stand etc.) should I just go with sandpaper, seek out a sandblasting service, or dip in citrate or similar?
- If the above feeble attempt to avoid elbow grease fails, what sort of sandpaper should I buy?
- For the aluminium, I assume sandpaper - again what type (I understand a set of grades, it's more a recommendation of what/where to buy)?
Thanks
I'll post pictures when I work out how and have made at least a little progress!
John (in Bucks)
John, I've sent you a pm re. Jim in case you haven't seen it.
First stop for you is : https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/inc ... rking/info
Inca tools appreciation society. Lots of info. You'll need to register to join.
I use citric acid powder with water adding a touch of meths and a drop of fairy. Get some brass brushes, a scraper with replaceable blades and green pads. Get rid of as much rust as you can, soak, repeat. Takes a while to get going but is very effective but keep an eye on it.
There's lots of options for drill based cleaning from sanding pads to cup brushes etc. One site you could start with is Cromwell tools.
Personally I use wet and dry rather than sandpaper. If you get a cloth backed brand it will last longer.
You'll need to degrease before adding parts to the acid. I've also found that washing parts after with water and bicarb seems to prevent flash rusting.
Having said all that.... if you can have it sandblasted you're going to save yourself a heap of graft.
I've never restored aluminium so I can't give any advice with that. I'd be wary of anything at all aggressive. Razor blades and green pads maybe?
Good luck, look forward to any updates.
Regards
Chris
Edit. I've just bought some paint from https://craftmaster.myshopify.com/colle ... ry-colours
Not used any yet but might help. There's some good painting tips on there to.
First stop for you is : https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/inc ... rking/info
Inca tools appreciation society. Lots of info. You'll need to register to join.
I use citric acid powder with water adding a touch of meths and a drop of fairy. Get some brass brushes, a scraper with replaceable blades and green pads. Get rid of as much rust as you can, soak, repeat. Takes a while to get going but is very effective but keep an eye on it.
There's lots of options for drill based cleaning from sanding pads to cup brushes etc. One site you could start with is Cromwell tools.
Personally I use wet and dry rather than sandpaper. If you get a cloth backed brand it will last longer.
You'll need to degrease before adding parts to the acid. I've also found that washing parts after with water and bicarb seems to prevent flash rusting.
Having said all that.... if you can have it sandblasted you're going to save yourself a heap of graft.
I've never restored aluminium so I can't give any advice with that. I'd be wary of anything at all aggressive. Razor blades and green pads maybe?
Good luck, look forward to any updates.
Regards
Chris
Edit. I've just bought some paint from https://craftmaster.myshopify.com/colle ... ry-colours
Not used any yet but might help. There's some good painting tips on there to.
Deadeye
Established Member
Thanks for the pm and very useful info here.
On the plus side, the saw has the little adjustable table at the back (mortising attachment?); but it's missing a riving knife.
I've ordered the 30->15mm reducers from Axminster... but now need to work out how to take it apart!
Travelling in hope!
John
On the plus side, the saw has the little adjustable table at the back (mortising attachment?); but it's missing a riving knife.
I've ordered the 30->15mm reducers from Axminster... but now need to work out how to take it apart!
Travelling in hope!
John
John,
Good to hear. Perhaps start a new thread as a wip in its own right with plenty of pics. Might well generate some interest in what seem to be a favourite brand of tool for many owners. Might generate a better response and critically from those far more qualified to answer your questions than me. Good luck and look forward to seeing more. Give Jim a shout on that link I sent sure he will be happy to reply. Look forward to any progress. Take care.
Chris
Good to hear. Perhaps start a new thread as a wip in its own right with plenty of pics. Might well generate some interest in what seem to be a favourite brand of tool for many owners. Might generate a better response and critically from those far more qualified to answer your questions than me. Good luck and look forward to seeing more. Give Jim a shout on that link I sent sure he will be happy to reply. Look forward to any progress. Take care.
Chris
