How old is my backsaw?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have tyzacks same as those pictured, they were my Dads and I guess he bought them new in the 50's. I doubt yours are very much older.

I have lots of other older makes too, but the tyzaks are the ones I use - no reason other than sentimental.

Assuming you want to check for a decent saw, easiest way is to run a micrometer over the blade.
The newer they are them more likely the steel is just a flat sheet rather than a properly made saw.
Can anyone confirm this or am I talking c**p as usual??
 
Pedder,

Does your "expert " want to buy a very rare pre 1880 (by his criteria) back saw I have, with an original plastic handle. 8)
 
lurker":2gcb639a said:
Does your "expert " want to buy a very rare pre 1880 (by his criteria) back saw I have, with an original plastic handle. 8)

My expert? :-s

lurker":2gcb639a said:
Assuming you want to check for a decent saw, easiest way is to run a micrometer over the blade.
The newer they are them more likely the steel is just a flat sheet rather than a properly made saw.

Please tell me more about that. (Allthough i don't own a micrometer.) What else than a flate sheet of stell shall a properly sawblade be? Tapered back on a back saw? :-k Never heard of, but that don't mean much :lol:

Cheers Pedder
 
lurker":13ljf9f2 said:
Pedder,

Does your "expert " want to buy a very rare pre 1880 (by his criteria) back saw I have, with an original plastic handle. 8)

(pssst; that was "admiral", not "pedder")

BugBear
 
pedder":23qpvbwi said:
lurker":23qpvbwi said:
Assuming you want to check for a decent saw, easiest way is to run a micrometer over the blade.
The newer they are them more likely the steel is just a flat sheet rather than a properly made saw.

Please tell me more about that. (Allthough i don't own a micrometer.) What else than a flate sheet of stell shall a properly sawblade be? Tapered back on a back saw? :-k Never heard of, but that don't mean much :lol:

Cheers Pedder

The measurement thing would only apply to "hand saws" (as opposed to backsaws).

You're looking for tapered grinding.

For further info, try reading "HOW A DISSTON HAND SAW IS MADE" here:

http://www.toolemera.com/Manufacturers/ ... ols.6.html

BugBear
 
Admiral's expert based his dating on the split nuts - plastic handle and split nuts is an unusual combo.
 
Well seems I had a few senior moments yesterday

Mixed me Pedders with me Admirals

And started waffling on about handsaws when everyone else was discussing backsaws. :roll:

I DO have a plastc handled backsaw with split nuts though :lol:
I bought it at a boot sale specifically for the nuts.
Its left whole at the moment as I am planning to practice sharpening with it.
 
Hi, Lurker

Its left whole at the moment as I am planning to practice sharpening with it.

It would be easer with a file :wink:

Pete
 
lurker":34aqc2xd said:
I DO have a plastc handled backsaw with split nuts though :lol:
I bought it at a boot sale specifically for the nuts.

How odd!
 
I would love to see a picture of a plastic handled backsaw with split nuts!. Disston introduced the domed screws in 1876 and whilst the UK was slow to adopt them, I would think most makers were using them by 1900. That slowness probably accounts for the Disston price premium in the early 20th century over British saws.

Of course probably millions of saws were made with split nuts over the 150 years before 1900 - hence we see them all the time, even in the colonies.

Some modern makers use non-removable rivets, perhaps some of those look like split nuts?

Split nuts have made a comeback with modern high quality makers - nostalgia?
 
Harbo":3n5vc53m said:
Here's a couple of Tyzacks (badged Frederick Willey, Leeds) that belonged to my Grandfather - I reckon they are early 1900's?:

fwts2ln3.jpg



fwrs1ih4.jpg


Rod[/img]

I have a Frederick Willey, Leeds tenon saw which belonged to my late uncle who was a joiner. I had it sharpened by City Tools in Leeds and it is superb. I also have a Tyzack tenon saw which has also been sharpened by them. I believe they are as good as it gets unless you pay out the considerable amount required for LN saws which I must say, I have and they are astonishing
 
That is an interesting sharpening job on the Willey backsaw, I guess users have run the mill file up to the bevel, but not to the end of the saw blade. At least you know how much of the saw has been used, and you know when you have run the saw too far into the wood - the saw jambs in the cut.
 
Peter Evans":1yiie8lb said:
That is an interesting sharpening job on the Willey backsaw

Yes - it is indeed. Getting those teeth even and lined up would be quite an exercise now :)

BugBear
 
bugbear":3a6w9yt2 said:
Peter Evans":3a6w9yt2 said:
That is an interesting sharpening job on the Willey backsaw

Yes - it is indeed. Getting those teeth even and lined up would be quite an exercise now :)

BugBear

I do believe the very first saw (15 tpi) that I sharpened turned out much better than that. I think I'll give City Tools a miss.
 
Mignal - a bit of confusion here - the photos are of my saw with teeth untouched - nothing to do with City Tools.

The saw as actually got no teeth at all now as I am in the process of re cutting them.

Rod
 

Latest posts

Back
Top