Graduate spindle lock & knock

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Open the top and you'll find there are squares on the headstock spindle for a fairly large spanner. Crude but affective.
Can't say about the knock, I think you'd have hear it to form a judgement.

John. B
 
Hi John,

that's exactly what I did but couldn't believe there wasn't a simpler method. Have you ever seen a proper variturn. They claim to have added an external spindle lock which sounds like it works in a more traditional way (rod in hole).

Think I'll hold out on the bearings until I've tried a bit more turning.

Cheers,

Dave
 
Dave,
We use Grads in our turning club, (its a School woodturning section) i've no idea what models they are but they are variable speed ones.
Including the small axminstesr and one big axminster and two jubilees we have around 10 lathes. (Also a fairly big metal lathe )
So we're not badly off for machines. :lol: :lol: :lol:

John. B
 
Dave
Slacken the belt off and see if you can feel the rough bearing or if its coming from the spindle by turning said spindle by hand.
Bearings are cheap and easy to replace but a good greasing will take a lot of roughness out

When are we going to see pics of your new lathe with speed control?

Ian
 
Cheers Ian,

I'll give it a try when I get back in the workshop. I wired up the lathe again with some decent cable yesterday. Unfortunately I haven't got the glands for the converter yet so it's not done yet. I also don't have the right screws attaching the light mounting arm onto the lathe (not sure whether to hunt some down or just retap the holes). This is where I'm planning on putting the converter.

I'd like to put an emergency stop button somewhere as well but I think that's a longer term project. Somehow linking in the safety switches with the converter would also be on the project list.

I don't have a drive center, inboard faceplate, live center or chuck adapter yet. I think I'll be going to the Yandles show in September to spend a little money.

Dave
 
I dont think the knocking noise is the bearings.
Try this and see if it helps.

Open the door to the motor.
The leaver to tilt the motor has an adjuster on the tilting mech, it is a long thin hexagon shaped bolt.
Tighten this up a bit and it should stop th knocking

hope this works
rich
 
Another thing I've heard of causing knocking noises on lathes is loose grub screws on the headstock pulley. It's probably worth checking they're right, and bearing in mind that on some machines (I don't know the Graudate specifically) there may be two grub screws, screwed in one after the other as a locking arrangement.

Cheers

Neil
 
Had the same knocking on the headstock of my Record CL. It was the grub screws on the pulley spindle.Drove my bonkers tracking down the noise !!
 
Cheers for all the info. I tried tightening up the lever to the tilting mechanism (it was already quite tight) but that didn't help. I couldn't play with the grub screws because I don't have the right hex key (seems to need something around 4.5). Will try and find the rest of my hex keys and give it a try.

Can't wait to get this competition piece out of the way so I can give the lathe a proper workout.

Dave
 
Ok if that didnt work you want to have a go at loosening the nut a few turns, this will tighten the belt.
As you say the nut was totaly tight that means the motor is in the highest position.
undoing the nut will lower the motor and tighten the belt.
Give it a go and let us know how you get on.
Rich
 
Hi Rich,

I actually tightened the belt by lowering the motor (sorry, bad explanation before). I did have it in my head to loosen things off but never got round to it.

I've borrowed some imperial hex keys so I'll try the grub screws as well.

Must say I am enjoying all this tinkering. Makes me feel more 'connected' with the lathe.

Dave
 
Graduates require grease for the bearings from time to time. You may find that cures the knock, also check the belt for a knuckle or hard point that could case it to knock. I have sworn blind bearings are gone before only to find out it was the belt that was damaged.
 
As far as I remember LM is fine for most general purpose bearing jobs, but there again, when I think about grease, it tends to lead me to Olivia Neutron-Bomb and THOSE TROUSERS! :whistle: :whistle:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top