I was going to recommend a track saw, but cutting a 60mm thick panel would require something like the Festool TS 75. I cut glue-ready edges in 60mm thick walnut slabs for a friend using the TS 75 and Panther rip blade. It was easier to take the tools to him rather than drag the large slabs to my shop.
Flush router bit for 60mm hardwood join.
- Thread starter Jitter
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I was going to recommend a track saw, but cutting a 60mm thick panel would require something like the Festool TS 75. I cut glue-ready edges in 60mm thick walnut slabs for a friend using the TS 75 and Panther rip blade. It was easier to take the tools to him rather than drag the large slabs to my shop.
Q:"Im interested in a router"
A: Have you considered a track saw ?.
Q: "Im thinking of buying a new bandsaw, any recommendations ?"
A: Have you considered a track saw ?.
Q: "Im thinking a plane would be best to clean up this edge"
A: Have you considered using a track saw ?
Q: "Im thinking of buying a new television"
A: Have you considered a track saw ?
Some just cant help themselves
Some just cant help themselves
If the only tool in your box is a hammer, then it would be great if all problems looked like nails. I noticed that you didn't include any snide comments about the suggestion for using a P/T or hand plane to joint the edges.
Jitter
Established Member
The Wadkin UOS I have has a decent flat and solid out feed, the issue will possibly be the length of the outfeed. The slabs close in the centre and slight gap at the ends so thinking if I do a few passes until they outfeed flat on the surface, it should take away the slight curve with not too much hassle as the slabs are only 1250mm length.
Jitter
Established Member
Got the TS 55 track saw, want the 75 but is on a long expensive list of things to acquire over time. In the last few weeks I’ve bought a bandsaw and a domino XL so I’m having to build up capital again. To be honest, I don’t know how I managed without a bandsaw before, it is like I have been avoiding doing jobs because I haven’t been equipped. Certainly the TS 75 would no doubt do the job, I have used the 55 for many joins like this on thinner slabs with great results.
It's just a joke Mark. Nothing snide about it. Hence adding the Television bit.
i wonder if festool do hammer attachments for their tracks... dead straight strikes 
or actually, an 18v hammer?!? You can get makita 18v everything ( apart from, probably, dildos ) oh hey, i ought to patent those, i could get RICH!!!!!Doug71
Established Member
https://makitauk.com/product/dvr350z
Dag nabbit you wrecked my dreams, I'll be forever consigned to being a porper ( if thats how its spelt )
Jitter
Established Member
Today I used Jameshow’s idea of clamping the boards together and running them a few passes on the Wadkin planer. It was just manageable on my own and would have needed a help and more outfeed set up if they were any longer and heavier. The results were great. The boards were a little rough in spots so sanded the high spots to get them sitting flat together then lifted them onto the infeed table and clamped. I made sure they were clamped tight to avoid them falling into the planer head! Pushed them through, turned machine off and rotated blade by hand to avoid the wood as I slid it back over the cutter head onto the infeed again. Repeated this process a few times and that did the trick. Bunged 5 domino’s in, applied glue and used a couple of ratchet straps to pull them together. The boards snapped closed, simply wiped of the glue, chucked a level across it and hey presto!
Thanks to all for your help. Some great ideas here for different scenarios.
Thanks to all for your help. Some great ideas here for different scenarios.
Attachments
I bought one of them from Wealdon, it gives a clean finish without any tear out or chips etc. Great project, @Jitter you will have to post some photos when you have completed it
I was taught to dish slightly each edge when jointing (workbench tops and table tops) with a hand plane after machining (using a no 7 no make it easier) with the ends touching 50-100 mm (on both at ends) on each component you are jointing, leaving a slight 1-1.5mm between each board and then glue up. Stops the ends from potentially pulling apart over time, which can happen on end grain.
Beautiful! Love the finish. Brings out the grain beautifully, Danish?
These bits are great Mega Flush Trim Bits - Infinity Tools but getting 60mm is a problem unless you remove a bearing and do two passes one from each side. This wealdon cutter is good and might just do the job T8048B-1/2 with a 65 mm cut Panel Trim or this one T8184B-1/2 at 75mm cut but is oos Up-Down Plunge Trim
Maybe this is another positive for a spindle moulder because I dare say that could face it of as long as the fence can be offset.
Maybe this is another positive for a spindle moulder because I dare say that could face it of as long as the fence can be offset.
Jitter
Established Member
Osmo poly-x wax oil (satin)
Osmo is good.
A customer of mine used liberon finishing oil on an oak worktop i made in his art studio. It looked ridiculously good. Next time I'm over there I'll get a photo.
Edit to ask: how far did you go with sandpaper grit? I once went to 3k wet n dry and then waxed, it was pretty darn shiney
A customer of mine used liberon finishing oil on an oak worktop i made in his art studio. It looked ridiculously good. Next time I'm over there I'll get a photo.
Edit to ask: how far did you go with sandpaper grit? I once went to 3k wet n dry and then waxed, it was pretty darn shiney
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