Fixing Cast iron machinery to solid floor

[Bigdanny]

Hi there everyone,
I'm new to here and see there is a lot of good info posted around. However I have tried searching for threads on this and can't find any, easily anyway.
I would like to know the thoughts of people here as to wether I will need to use anchor bolts on my machines. The reason I am asking is because I will be pouring a concrete pad in my workshop that will have approx 15cm concrete , with rebar and fibres added and also underfloor heating pipes. I would just like to know how much I will need to drill in order to secure my machines without risk of possible breakout of concrete or if I need to at all. The sort of machines I have are Cast iron, ie Sagem Spindle, Danckaert Saw table Danckaert 16" Planer and 20" Thicknesser. These aren't lightweight machines and would like to know if anyone uses this type of kit unsecured or if they have to be bolted down.
Many Thanks
Danny

 

[wizer]

Welcome to the forum.

No need to bolt them down, at all. IMO

 

[yetloh]

I agree, they are definitely not going to go anywhere. The exception would be a floor standing pillar drill for safety (toppling) reasons.

Jim

 

[markus]

hi, i have cast iron machinery and i DO have it bolted down!!
I use concerete screws. after using these i will never ever use ancor bolts again!!!!

 

[Bigdanny]

hi, i have cast iron machinery and i DO have it bolted down!!
I use concerete screws. after using these i will never ever use ancor bolts again!!!!

Thats to your replys so far.
Next question is.... Why do you bolt it down? Whydo you not use anchor bolts? and how long are your concrete screws?
Cheers
Danny

 

[wizer]

hi, i have cast iron machinery and i DO have it bolted down!!

Why do you bolt them down? What machines do you have?

 

[Shrubby]

Hi Danny
If the manufacturer has provided bolt holes I would use them.
Two machines I work on are bolted - the belt linisher has a small footprint and the planer has a seperate motor. The rest are fine with just gravity.

Matt

 

[eggflan]

hi, i have cast iron machinery and i DO have it bolted down!!

Why do you bolt them down? What machines do you have?

Why not ask the thousands of school woodwork departments that question , all the ones ive ever been in have all machines firmly bolted down as do most large pro shops :wink: , ive worked in huge factories where 5 tonne+ machines are bolted down to the floor .

If it aint going to be portable then all my larger machines are bolted to the floor or bench :wink:

 

[misterfish]

My Wadkin table saw sits on a double layer of flooring chipboard raised on wooden bearers above the concrete slab to allow the floor to be insulated. The bearers are fixed to the concrete. The saw is fixed to the floor and bearers with lag bolts.

Although the saw weighs over 250Kg it is possible to slide it around with a bit of effort, so fixing it down ensures it is rock solid. Until I fixed it down I had it in the back of my mind that it might move. The cast iron base is provided with fixing points so for the sake of a small amount of money and time I tixed it down.

Misterfish

 

[markus]

hi, 2-3" in to the concerete is more than ample (thats a M10 - M12 screw)

 

[Bigdanny]

Thanks all, I think I will err on side of caution and secure down. 2-3 inches sounds good as this will allow me approx 1-2 inches clearance to my heating pipes. Will look into concrete screws. Do anchor bolts have a tendency to crack the concrete around the hole more than screws?

 

[Jake]

Yes - anchor bolts rely on expansion to grip the sides of the hole, whereas concrete screws cut a thread and grip that way.

 

[markus]

the reason i like to use concerete screws is there ease of use and sometimes you can put the machine in to place and drill down through the holes in the machine and fasten it down with out having to move the machine. i would allow plenty of time for your new concerete to harden before doing this.

 

[jimi43]

REALLY weird!!

My mate...a cabinet maker in the village...was having a chat with me over a cup of coffee today and said..."Hey Jim...have you got a moment...I need you to help me right my Wadkin spindle moulder".....

He had been trying to move it on his own (yes really) and the wooden floor it was on collapsed on one corner and it toppled over. It obviously wasn't going around but hell that thing weighs a bleedin TON!!

Clearly it is his fault for not having it on a proper concrete base but my point here is that these things are inherently top heavy with that huge lump of cast iron...and I wouldn't want to have to lift that up again too many times soon!

Jim

 

[Bigdanny]

the reason i like to use concerete screws is there ease of use and sometimes you can put the machine in to place and drill down through the holes in the machine and fasten it down with out having to move the machine. i would allow plenty of time for your new concerete to harden before doing this.

. Im planning to pour late March and not start installing until September. I have to do work during the summer. and also have to wait to put on an epoxy coating to the floor. I didnt want to go down the route of using wooden floor due to sheer weight of machines and termites and ants as well. I'm looking forward to using the workshop next winter though. Still a massive amount to do.

 

[markus]

christ!!! under floor heating resin floor?? sounds like a hell of a setup how big is your workshop? a take it your a pro??

 

[Mike Wingate]

At school all machinery is bolted down. A suitable sleeve anchor is selected for the machine's fixing eye. A hole is drilled. Epoxy Squirted into the hole and the bolt placed in but not tightened for 2 days. After this the machine is put in place with rubber pads under the feet. Bolts torqued up. They stay where they are placed. I have seen parquet floors on top of concrete ripped apart by an unbalanced block on a wood lathe. It was fixed with lag bolts, before my time.

 

[Bigdanny]

Hi Markus, Sorry haven't mentioned it yet but I'm in Bulgaria. a couple of weeks ago it touched -23 C. I've done costing roughly and it works out cheaper slightly for me to put UFH in to new radiators.Running costs are a lot cheaper as well. My Main workshop room is 70 sqm and 4 metres high. The whole area is 280 sq m +. Have finished repairs to roof which I did over the last 2 autumns and have fitted a new rsj in the work room. In spring will do concreting and later on windows. Still trying to decide wether to make myself out of wood( Preferable I think) or use bought units, time and money are factors in this.
I'm trying to get round to doing a webpage with progress shown with pics. Hope not to cause too much envy.

 

[Bigdanny]

Mike I like your epoxy and rubber mat method. I'd not thought of using that. WHich epoxy do you use?

 

[Mike Wingate]

It is a single tube with glue and hardner with a long nozzle.. The site staff get it from Screwfix.