Fitted Wardrobes – 2.5m high ceilings – What size top filler

[rupert]

I’m going to building some fitted wardrobes. The ceiling height is 2.5m. I’m planning on having a single doors, so NOT having it split up with a smaller door on top and the a larger one under it.

What is the ideal size to have the top filler piece? I have seen other fitted wardrobes and it seems about 100mm seems the norm. If I go for this will it be ok considering the height of the ceiling, or is it advisable to have a bigger filler piece? I don’t want them looking odd. Also should the plinth be the same size as the top filler?

The construction method I’m using is the sides to floor. So cut a notch at bottom front of each piece (18mm * height of plinth – say 100mm) then the plinth is scribed to the floor to fit flush with the frames. Is this a good method to use? I’ve seen this used by a wardrobe company and seems easy to follow, however if there are other better methods of building I would be interested to know.

Thanks.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Can you use Sketchup?

One way to resolve it is to create a 3D model of the room, pref. with windows, and try it to see. You can start with the floorplan and extrude it vertically, to get the room fairly fast. Then you can put in the storage and see what you prefer.

It doesn't take very long. I've done this with a bedroom we're re-modelling soon (supposedly - severe shortage of round tuits here!). It's help visualise things a lot.

Sketchup is a bit fiddly, but it's free and you can type numbers into it to get things to exact dimensions, or go the other way around - make it and then measure it. It will also quickly do 'natural' lighting (e.g. from a window), and plug-ins let you add electric lights too (although this is a bit more complex).

There are a lot of experts over in the design section of the forum.

E.

 

[bodge]

Just measured ours that were fitted by Sharps earlier this year and they used a 150mm top filler. Just the same as you describe, single doors etc.

 

[rupert]

Thanks Eric, will do it in sketch up and see how it looks, good idea.

Cheers bodge, think 150mm would suit a 2.5m height wardrobe, will draw in sketchup to make sure though.

 

[petermillard]

A simple 2D line drawing can often give a good idea of the proportions, too btw.

If there's no skirting board, or if I'm not 'wrapping' the skirting around the wardrobe, then I usually make a softwood plinth (50-100mm typically) for the wardrobe to sit on; this plinth can be easily levelled up and secured to the floor, and a thin capping piece applied to the face/sides and scribed to the floor as needed. I make up wardrobe carcasses as a simple box. A deep (~20mm) rebate for the 6mm back makes it easy to scribe the sides to the back wall, or you can fit an end panel and scribe that.

Re the top infill. assuming there's no coving or cornice to wrap-around, then I usually leave about 50-70mm between the carcass and the ceiling to allow for out of true ceilings/floors, though the top infill can be whatever you want, of course - just finish the doors where you want it to start.

Be aware as well, that single full-height doors can look awfully skinny, unless they're unusually wide - in which case, don't forget to allow space for them to open Use plenty of hinges, too.

HTH Pete.

 

[custard]

I understand how to scribe to a wall. But can anyone explain how you scribe and attach the top filler to the ceiling?

 

[chippy1970]

Here you go here's some I did for a customer awhile back might give you some ideas.

viewtopic.php?t=54351

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[rupert]

Thanks Chaps,

I guess the reason I’m asking is that the wardrobe doors can only be 360mm wide in order for the doors to open and not hit the bed…The room is pretty small.

It’s on a run of 3 meters so I’ve worked out to have roughly 60mm scribes on the sides and then 4 * 720mm wide double wardrobes.

Due to the narrow doors and high height of the room I’d rather not have them looking awfully skinny as you say Pete. So that’s why I thought I’d have the plinth and top filler bigger than usual to try and even things out a bit.

I’m going to go for a 150mm top filler and same for the plinth…I’ll draw this up later on paper to scale and see how it looks.

 

[rupert]

Also whilst on the subject of wardrobes, whats the best way to attach the hinges? I’m going to be using standard concealed hinges, the kitchen types. Is there a knack/template to use when marking up the hinges?

I’m going to go for 4 hinges on each door. I’m assuming I attach the hinges to the doors firsts…what the best way of marking up the fixing plate on the carcass?

 

[chippy1970]

You can get cheap templates off eBay. On the carcass your 2 holes will be 32mm apart and 37mm from the edge. The door hole centre should be around 22mm from the edge.

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[rupert]

Brilliant!! cheers Chippy, never thought of looking on ebay for a templete, nice one

 

[chippy1970]

Just looked they are 99p plus postage search hinge template. I don't use them myself I normally knock my own up out of mdf but they will be ok for you.

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[petermillard]

Yes, this hinge template is what I use - cheap & cheerful, does the job.

Use a 'story stick' to mark the hinge centres on the doors and carcass then the drill positions through the jig with an awl; drill out the 35mm hinge sockets - I do them freehand with a hinge bit, or in a drill press if a forstener - and fit the hinges to the door. Fit the mounting plates to the carcass, clip the doors on and tweak as necessary.

If space is that tight, could sliding doors be an option??

 

[rupert]

Thanks Chaps,

Peter yup its a 3*3m room, but I prefer the traditional look of wardrobe doors, so prefered to avoid the sliding route.

Cheers all. Off to sort the cutting list out.