Fine Shavings with Spokeshaves

[J_SAMa]

I have trouble getting anything but hoggin' cuts with my wooden BU spokeshave. Whenever i back the blade to a fine setting i just get dust, or broken up whavings no matter how sharp the Blade is. Hoggin' chips or dusts, either way, the spokeshave leaves rough surfaces, especially the big tearouts left by thicker cuts. I tried increasing bevel angle (by about 5 degrees) and thus EP but that only made the shave harder to push, surface quality saw no significant improvements. Would those of you who are familiar with this type of spokeshave pleeeeeease help me, I'm a little desparate now.
Also whats the average edge retention on these wooden shaves' blades? Mine is early 20th century and at around 30 degrees of bevel angle, the edge rolls over in about 15 to 20 cuts, which I find is way too short.

Sam

 

[Cheshirechappie]

A spokeshave is really more a shaping tool than a finishing one, so hogging cuts are good. Sometimes, skewing the tool can help with finer cuts when getting close to the line, and I find they're more controllable when pulled rather than pushed.

Not sure about the edge turning over. Mine last for ages between sharpenings, and are probably of similar vintage. They work best with a shallower bevel angle. Perhaps someone has been a bit over-enthusiastic with a power grinder at some time in the tool's past and softened the steel at the cutting edge.

 

[custard]

Many wooden spoke shaves have only a short flat section on the sole, so it's difficult to stop the shave rotating in your hands and either digging in or stopping cutting completely. Skewing the cut helps a lot. Also, be really slow and deliberate, feel the blade engaging with the wood and concentrate hard on maintains that angle throughout the stroke...speed comes later!

I'm puzzled why the edge won't last, I find a spoke shave blade lasts roughly as long as a plane iron, about ten to fifteen minutes constant use in most European hardwoods.

 

[AndyT]

Maybe the wood is the problem if you are getting tearout. Sorry if this is obvious but it's really important to work down the grain. Going the other way is like stroking a cat backwards.
Try some experiments on something mild and straight grained and see if you get better results.

I'm not sure what angles mine are sharpened at but I always hone flat across the whole surface of the bevel so it's probably only 20 or 25 degrees. Don't add a secondary bevel.

One other thought. Is your cutter firmly fixed in the stock, not slipping up under pressure, giving a coarser cut?

If it is, you might be able to add slips of veneer and make the holes smaller, paring out again once the glue has set.

 

[Racers]

Is the mouth worn?

I have had to patch a few my self. Loose blades can be fixed by drilling and taping and fitting grub screws.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Are you trying to take off too much? The blade may be 3" wide or whatever but it's only intended for taking off narrow shavings from a rounded workpiece (think "wooden spoke").
Maybe set the blade so that it's zero cut at one end but deeper at the other, and try out different parts of the blade for the best cut. If this blunts it you adjust again to use a different part of the blade.

 

[bugbear]

I have trouble getting anything but hoggin' cuts with my wooden BU spokeshave. Whenever i back the blade to a fine setting i just get dust, or broken up whavings no matter how sharp the Blade is. Hoggin' chips or dusts, either way, the spokeshave leaves rough surfaces, especially the big tearouts left by thicker cuts. I tried increasing bevel angle (by about 5 degrees) and thus EP but that only made the shave harder to push, surface quality saw no significant improvements. Would those of you who are familiar with this type of spokeshave pleeeeeease help me, I'm a little desparate now.
Also whats the average edge retention on these wooden shaves' blades? Mine is early 20th century and at around 30 degrees of bevel angle, the edge rolls over in about 15 to 20 cuts, which I find is way too short.

Sam

If this is the one you bought from eBay, it looks as if its a round soled one, and they're always "interesting".

I would either buy a flat soled spokeshave, or rework (i.e. patch) the mouth on the one you have.

It's a much easier learning curve (no pun intended).

BugBear

 

[J_SAMa]

BB, I am actually talking about another one, it's screw adjustable. I bought it because its blade seemed much better than the one in my other thread. It's also slightly curved, I'd been searching for flat ones but couldn't find any. The mouth is fine on this, it's a strip of brass. The throat is wide open but not badly worn.
I really hope I don't have to buy a new one... If I had to I'd probably buy a metal one.
The cuts were all done on spruce so the wood isn't difficult or anything. I think the shave is fine (except for the edge retention) and it really is just my technique. I'll keep practicing and report back.
Sam

 

[MIGNAL]

I have a couple of the Chinese type spokeshaves (or contour Planes). I use the method that Jacob refers to: set very fine at one end of the blade, set coarser at the other end. They are pretty damn good shaves once sharpened.

 

[bugbear]

I use the method that Jacob refers to: set very fine at one end of the blade, set coarser at the other end.

It's a good technique - I learnt it from Dunbar's book, and have mentioned it to several people on forums. Saves fiddling with adjusters, even if they're fitted.

BugBear