chrisk4012
Member
i've being cutting down trees in my local forest(with permission of course).has anybody any tips to dry the timber out.or will it crack or deform if i use it straight away.any tips would be really helpful : 
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drying timber
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Dalboy
Established Member
I try and leave the log as long as possible and seal the ends, the disadvantage to this is the time it will take to dry to a usable state. The other thing would be to rough turn to shape leaving it about an inch thick then seal and leave so that the maximum time for drying is about a year. Some people have used microwave to dry it ( get one just for this purpose the good lady may object).
Just make sure that whichever method you use seal as soon as possible after cutting within 2 - 3 hours is best as some woods may even start to split.
Just make sure that whichever method you use seal as soon as possible after cutting within 2 - 3 hours is best as some woods may even start to split.
chrisk4012
Member
Cheers dalboy.thats a decent setup u have there.have u being at it long
Random Orbital Bob
Established Member
chrisk4012":3uv2jj5w said:i've being cutting down trees in my local forest(with permission of course).has anybody any tips to dry the timber out.or will it crack or deform if i use it straight away.any tips would be really helpful :
If the logs are of a decent width its often useful to split them lengthwise through the pith because that's where the focus of the tension is, ie where the water loss is at its maximum. The advantage of splitting is you reduce the drying time, reduce the stresses for splitting. End seal the new end grain edges again as Dal suggests and leave the bark in place as that slows drying through the long grain. Store outside where the air can circulate but preferably under cover.
Grahamshed
Established Member
Once I get my lathe I will be looking for instant ways eo dry big chunks of wood. Getting much to old to just sit back and wait
Random Orbital Bob
Established Member
The mists of time....they're swirling....I feel a prediction coming.....a vision......
I see.....a....a......a microwave heading to Graham's shed..........
I see.....a....a......a microwave heading to Graham's shed..........
Tazmaniandevil
Established Member
or turn it green and let nature take its course. :wink:
Even with cutting and drying your own timber, you will still want good stable dry timber from time to time. I have managed to find a really affordable source for air dried timber at very reasonable prices. All from an ethically managed sustainable forest, so no conscience issues either.
You also need to consider storage. Lots of free wood means lots of space needed to store it.
Even with cutting and drying your own timber, you will still want good stable dry timber from time to time. I have managed to find a really affordable source for air dried timber at very reasonable prices. All from an ethically managed sustainable forest, so no conscience issues either.
You also need to consider storage. Lots of free wood means lots of space needed to store it.
Grahamshed
Established Member
It would have to be a bl@@dy big one.Random Orbital Bob":2q4rgrg2 said:
I suppose that would make it a macrowave !!
Grahamshed
Established Member
<edit> what happened ?Tazmaniandevil":m4pd881b said:
Grahamshed
Established Member
Turning it green it will have to be.Tazmaniandevil":1lfw2hbf said:
I like the link. We have holidayed in Scotland more than once. Perhaps next time I will have to leave SWIMBO and the luggage in a lay bye and fill the car with wood, :twisted:
Random Orbital Bob
Established Member
Grahamshed":34oyut02 said:
=D> =D> =D>
petercharlesfagg
Established Member
Over the years I have found for myself a simple formula.
The diameter of the timber plus 8 inches, is the length of ANY timber.
Over 12 inches diameter I split the log lengthwise and in all cases I seal the ends, it does NOT have to be Chestnut Timber seal, it could be some old oil paint.
I weigh the pieces, using a black marker I write this weight on each piece before storing them outside BUT they are under cover, out of the sun and with plenty of air circulation.
After 6 months or so, I weigh them again and again mark the weight.
Approximately a year after storage began, I very often start turning the pieces but cut 4 inches of the likely cracked timber off each end. Using my original measurement plan should give a decent size of piece to turn.
It does of course mean that the timber takes a long time to dry BUT since you will be collecting other timber during that time scale there will be a continuous supply of usable pieces?
Then again, sometimes if the timber has a particularly nice figure or I need some bowls in the short term, I will turn it wet, weigh and store in a similar way to the Green but indoors under much more atmospheric control. You can work that out for yourself!
Whatever you attempt please study the merits and downsides of the various timbers. Always remember that fruit woods need immediate attention, do not leave them overnight!
The majority of other timbers can be given that extra time without too much detriment.
Regards, Peter.
The diameter of the timber plus 8 inches, is the length of ANY timber.
Over 12 inches diameter I split the log lengthwise and in all cases I seal the ends, it does NOT have to be Chestnut Timber seal, it could be some old oil paint.
I weigh the pieces, using a black marker I write this weight on each piece before storing them outside BUT they are under cover, out of the sun and with plenty of air circulation.
After 6 months or so, I weigh them again and again mark the weight.
Approximately a year after storage began, I very often start turning the pieces but cut 4 inches of the likely cracked timber off each end. Using my original measurement plan should give a decent size of piece to turn.
It does of course mean that the timber takes a long time to dry BUT since you will be collecting other timber during that time scale there will be a continuous supply of usable pieces?
Then again, sometimes if the timber has a particularly nice figure or I need some bowls in the short term, I will turn it wet, weigh and store in a similar way to the Green but indoors under much more atmospheric control. You can work that out for yourself!
Whatever you attempt please study the merits and downsides of the various timbers. Always remember that fruit woods need immediate attention, do not leave them overnight!
The majority of other timbers can be given that extra time without too much detriment.
Regards, Peter.
Tazmaniandevil
Established Member
It's a risk turning anything from green timber. Too often it will split or warp beyond all recognition. The drying can be controlled though if turned thin enough. Have a look at Andrew "the hat" Hall's stuff.
I was fortunate enough to watch one of his demonstrations and handle his work-in-progress at a show. Simply stunning stuff, and all turned green AFAIK
I was fortunate enough to watch one of his demonstrations and handle his work-in-progress at a show. Simply stunning stuff, and all turned green AFAIK
Random Orbital Bob
Established Member
He demo'd at our turning club last year....amazing. You know he turns all his hats from maple and to stop it drying (yes stop it drying)...he immerses his blanks ie split logs into a rainwater butt so they're actually submerged and then adds a bottle of Dettol to prevent them smelling hideous.
He then takes them out and mounts directly on the lathe......his work of course requires the flexibility of the green wood to achieve the shapes he makes.
In its wisdom (sorry Bill), our turning club has a competition later in this year to turn a hat!!!! (That'll be easy then)
He then takes them out and mounts directly on the lathe......his work of course requires the flexibility of the green wood to achieve the shapes he makes.
In its wisdom (sorry Bill), our turning club has a competition later in this year to turn a hat!!!! (That'll be easy then)
petercharlesfagg
Established Member
Tazmaniandevil":3erwfkza said:
Thankyou for your comments.
Nevertheless for anyone starting out in woodturning, using Green timber that is full of fluids is a great way to learn without the inherent dust problems, that is how I taught myself over 22 years ago!
Never be afraid to try, if it splits that's fine! Treat it as a learning curve! (Horrible modern expression)
Warmest regards, Peter.
Tazmaniandevil
Established Member
Oh yes, I agree entirely. I actually started writing my previous post just before you posted above Peter.
I learn from "seasoned" turners on here, youtube, other forums etc. all the time. (seasoned... :lol: do you see what I did there? #-o ) This is why the t'interwebs community is so vitally important to us newbies.
I have turned loads of stuff from green when learning how to hold & use the tools. There's a great amount of satisfaction still, watching those long ribbons disappear over my shoulder. When I started practising with the skew I made all the initial cuts on green timber too.
I don't even mind cleaning the tools afterwards.
It is a bit disheartening though when you see something you have worked on turn into a horrible cracked mess a couple of weeks down the line. Other times of course, I have had pieces benefit from warping and splitting. I turned a fruit bowl and some fruit early on from green cherry and oak. The cherry split like crazy, and the oak warped the bowl from round into not quite oval. The over-all effect was quite nice.
I regularly rough turn bowls and boxes from green timber and wrap them in Primark bags or a few sheets of newspaper with the wet shavings. The results are usually fairly pleasing.
I learn from "seasoned" turners on here, youtube, other forums etc. all the time. (seasoned... :lol: do you see what I did there? #-o ) This is why the t'interwebs community is so vitally important to us newbies.
I have turned loads of stuff from green when learning how to hold & use the tools. There's a great amount of satisfaction still, watching those long ribbons disappear over my shoulder. When I started practising with the skew I made all the initial cuts on green timber too.
I don't even mind cleaning the tools afterwards.
It is a bit disheartening though when you see something you have worked on turn into a horrible cracked mess a couple of weeks down the line. Other times of course, I have had pieces benefit from warping and splitting. I turned a fruit bowl and some fruit early on from green cherry and oak. The cherry split like crazy, and the oak warped the bowl from round into not quite oval. The over-all effect was quite nice.
I regularly rough turn bowls and boxes from green timber and wrap them in Primark bags or a few sheets of newspaper with the wet shavings. The results are usually fairly pleasing.
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