Cutting gauge recommendations

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi
I have been asked what I want for Christmas, and decided that a cutting gauge would be handy.
I made one several years ago, which works in the main, but I wouldn't mind a proper one.
I am aware that Marples do one, but was wondering if anyone had any recommendations?
I will mainly be using it for trimming veneers ready for the stringing and banding.

Thanks in advance
Simon

Simon

Since you have stated a desire to purchase rather than make a gauge, and it is needed for veneer, I would recommend a wheel gauge. These cut a fine line, one that is less likely to tear the thin veneer. For the best, look at the Tite-Mark and the latest Veritas gauges.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[sihollies]

Thanks,
I do mainly work with veneers, so will definitely have a look at the Tite Mark and Veritas as suggested.
After viewing quite a few online videos regarding making cutting/marking gauges, I have been inspired and think I will try again myself.
I particularly like one of the designs shown in ED65's link
https://toolsofourfathers.wordpress.com ... se-gauges/

Thanks for the advice
Simon

 

[MikeG.]

I am about to make another few of these.

Marking gauges by Racers, on Flickr

I will do a WIP.

Pete

Those look beautiful, Pete, but wouldn't it be better if the wedge was at right angles to the shaft rather than running with it? As you push the wedge you could be shifting the fence/ shaft relationship, whereas if the wedge was at 90 degrees that danger would be obviated. Next time I'm in the workshop I'll knock something up quickly to illustrate what I mean.

 

[Racers]

Those look beautiful, Pete, but wouldn't it be better if the wedge was at right angles to the shaft rather than running with it? As you push the wedge you could be shifting the fence/ shaft relationship, whereas if the wedge was at 90 degrees that danger would be obviated. Next time I'm in the workshop I'll knock something up quickly to illustrate what I mean.

Nope, it works just fine as it is if you adjust it the right way.

i.e. http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/a-good-gauge/

Pete

 

[ED65]

...wouldn't it be better if the wedge was at right angles to the shaft rather than running with it? As you push the wedge you could be shifting the fence/ shaft relationship, whereas if the wedge was at 90 degrees that danger would be obviated.

It would appear that Robert Wearing shared that view, and FWIW he wasn't at all complimentary about the traditional design.

Next time I'm in the workshop I'll knock something up quickly to illustrate what I mean.

Here's my prototype for a pencil gauge utilising the locking mechanism I mention on the previous page:

With a circular beam this has to be the simplest of all locking designs to implement: in essence you drill two holes and you're done.

 

[MikeG.]

...wouldn't it be better if the wedge was at right angles to the shaft rather than running with it? As you push the wedge you could be shifting the fence/ shaft relationship, whereas if the wedge was at 90 degrees that danger would be obviated.

It would appear that Robert Wearing shared that view, and FWIW he wasn't at all complimentary about the traditional design.

Next time I'm in the workshop I'll knock something up quickly to illustrate what I mean.

Here's my prototype for a pencil gauge utilising the locking mechanism I mention on the previous page:

With a circular beam this has to be the simplest of all locking designs to implement: in essence you drill two holes and you're done.

I have no idea who Robert Wearing is, but I agree with him. I've got a cam-lock thing sketched out on the back of an envelope, working at right angles to the shaft. I might be able to get away from the computer tomorrow, and if so I'll give it a try. One thing I am very keen on in my next gauge is to have a deep enough fence such that the mortise prevents any waggling. My current gauge has too much movement between the fence and the shaft.

The one downside I can foresee with across-the-shaft solutions, including yours, is that with the gauge being used often in very similar positions there is a good chance of wearing the shaft in one place such that very slight adjustments become difficult. Fear not......I have a solution in hand.

 

[Racers]

If you are going to make them a flat on the shaft will spread the wear.

Pete

 

[Phil Pascoe]

A flat on the wedge? The wedge has to taper.

 

[Racers]

Flat on the shaft to mate with the tapered flat on the wedge.

Pete

 

[AndyT]

Flats on the wedge and on the shaft will be familiar to anyone who has ever taken the pedals off a bike not made in the last 30 years or so - the wedge is like the cotter pin and the shaft is like the axle.

 

[Racers]

Flats on the wedge and on the shaft will be familiar to anyone who has ever mashed the end of the cotter pin flat in the attempt to remove the pedals off a bike not made in the last 30 years or so - the wedge is like the cotter pin and the shaft is like the axle.

FTFY

Pete

 

[AndyT]

:lol:

 

[MikeG.]

If you are going to make them a flat on the shaft will spread the wear.

Pete

I won't be using a round shaft. But yes, a round shaft without flats would wear very quickly.

 

[Racers]

The square shafted Stanley clones I used to make took lots of fine pairing to get the shaft square to the head.

DSCF0012 by Racers, on Flickr

The wedge ones you just drill a hole.

Pete

 

[sihollies]

Has anybody used the Veritas marking gauge to cut through/trim veneer?
I have contacted Axminster tools and they can't confirm that it will or won't .
I cant find any details online as to what the marking/cutting depth could be?

Thanks in advance
Simon

 

[ED65]

I have no idea who Robert Wearing is, but I agree with him.

One of the most prolific contributors to The Woodworker under Charles Hayward's editorship. Author of a number of well-regarded books, including "The Resourceful Woodworker: Tools, Techniques and Tricks of the Trade" which is an absolute gem for any fan of jigs and similar workshop aids, but chiefly known for his "The Essential Woodworker" which many regard as the best ground-up guide for learners.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Has anybody used the Veritas marking gauge to cut through/trim veneer?
I have contacted Axminster tools and they can't confirm that it will or won't .
I cant find any details online as to what the marking/cutting depth could be?

Thanks in advance
Simon

I have used wheel gauges, both Veritas and Tite-Mark, to slice/square the sides of rebates. If it can do this, it will slice veneer with ease.

This can also be done with a Japanese cutting gauge with a knife. I doubt it could be done with a pin-turned-into-a-cutter since this has a rounded back to the blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Racers]

My sharpened 3mm silver steel ones will.

DSC_0021 by Racers, on Flickr

Pete

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Pete

I've made my share of cutting gauges using HSS rods as the basis of a cutter. This is just one ...

These make excellent marking gauges, but the cutters cannot compare with the thin wheels or flat and sharp Japanese blades when slicing wood, such as in the case of rebate edges, as mentioned earlier.. The rod-turned-cutter is simply too thick to penetrate as cleanly.

Regads from Perth

Derek

 

[MikeG.]

I've said it before, I'll say it again: wheeled gauges are inherently inaccurate unless the wheel is so small that its entire available depth is buried into the timber until the shaft lies flat on the surface.