cutting a recess into a chopping board fro a 5.5 ramkin

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Chrispy":1nmmzcce said:
sploo":1nmmzcce said:
Chrispy":1nmmzcce said:
Get it CNC'd
That's a good idea - especially if you're needing to do a lot of boards. However, the potential for chip out remains, as does the issue of the bottom of the pocket showing the router cutter path (i.e. a bit like a mown lawn).

For smaller volumes, I would use a CNC to cut myself appropriate templates, then do the routing by hand (outside, if possible).


Why do you think you would get a better finish with hand held router? with cnc you can climb cut then finish off with a very fine 0.1 or0.2mm finish cut conventionally, the tool path can be any which way you like ie offset from edge with a step over of as little as you like so no lines or stripes. and no boredom errors either. I admit you would need to doing quite a few to warrant the hassle of getting it out sourced though.
Read the above again - I didn't say better :wink:

With some effort you can make a code path to follow the grain (if cutting side grain), which helps; and yes - with tuning you can reduce it a fair degree, but that's all only worthwhile for larger production runs.

For smaller volumes I'd prefer to spray dust and chips outside (i.e. route handheld).
 
woodbrains":195y5mom said:
Hello,

If you have a wood turning lathe, you can make your own templates.

Mike.

If you have access to a lathe then you can cut the whole recess fairly easily (assuming you have enough clearance and know what you're doing). Either hold the wood using a vacuum, donut or longworth.
 
novocaine":27gdepzq said:
Nice.

The hole cutting tool is a simple trammel, but really neatly made in aluminium and he gets good results using it with a trim router. I assume it's one of those side-cutting-spiral drill bits that were really popular a few years ago for jobs like cutting out for sockets in plasterboard. If you only have a few to do, it's really nice.
. . .

But... there are two big safety issues that he should have addressed, one during construction and one over time when the bed is in use:

Construction: a lot of the bigger tube he's welding is galvanized (zinc plated). Apparently, zinc poisoning leads to collapse of the gastrointestinal system, and lovely things like colostomies and, er, nasty and protracted death. I think his welding mask has an air filter but that's not really enough - the fumes are zinc oxide and will coat things nearby and can be breathed in by bystanders. I had a scare about this the other day, and I was only using Galvafroid (galvanizing paint).

Secondly, it certainly looked like he was fitting mains elecrical plates into a metal construction without adequate attention to earthing, wire protection and clearances. He may have done it right, but it didn't look like that.

There's a good reason why socket boxes for plaster are the size they are - as well as room for lots of wires, it provides a margin of safety to minimise wires chafing, etc. There needs to be a big enough hole around the actual switch-plates themselves to allow for clearances - you can't take the hole right up to the bakelite at the back. I've done this myself (fitting socket plates into metal construction), and it is a bit of a PITA when you're trying to make everything neat, but this isn't a wall - you'd expect a bed frame to move about a bit (at least if a younger couple are using it :) ). So cables will probably move about and flex inside the structure. There's usually a weld seam on the inside of steel tube, and that's often razor sharp. So it's fine if you take steps to earth everything carefully, AND put the wire in something protective inside the frame, but could become dangerous (or art least unreliable) if you don't. Plastic ducting would do it, but you do need something more than just the wire's insulation.

I know: I do sound a bit of a wet blanket above (wet duvet?). He's obviously really skilled and it's impressive, and clever, with some great ideas. I love some of his techniques, like using a hardwood straightedge for his plasma cutter*, and the system for joining the bed together. Simple, efficient, effective.

Overall that's well worth a second look, and I'm certainly going to look at some of his other videos. Thanks for posting it.

E.

* That may well be the usual way to do it - I freely admit my MIG welding is self-taught and I'm not very good!
 
novocaine":1o6a98ga said:
sploo":1o6a98ga said:
novocaine":1o6a98ga said:
Great video, but... I'm not sure how an angle grinder with a disc for cleaning up welds is going to be useful in this scenario?

fine. 9 minutes and 39 seconds in. :)

picky picky picky. :lol:
Ah. Got it - sorry.

But.. (yea, I'm going to be picky again :wink: )... you need a centre hole for a trammel or circle cutting jig - so if trying to cut a flat bottomed pocket you'll eventually have nothing on which to register (or be left with material in the centre that has a hole in it). Plus the issue of cleanup of the bottom still remains.

That's why I suggested using a circle cutting jig to make a template (i.e. a circular hole in sheet material) then use that with a guide bush on the router. It'll give you a "complete" pocket (and no risk of the trammel moving). The cleanup issue remains, though it's easier to then do a tiny depth final pass with the router (moving it back and forth with the grain).

Thinking about the lathe suggestions - one option for cleanup might also be those round velco backed foam pads for sanding disks (as often used by turners on bowls). On a drill they do seem to do a pretty good job of removing marks, as long as you're careful not to skip grits.

EDIT: One thought I've just had - use an adjustable circle cutter (http://www.mad4tools.com/silverline-adj ... GwodNTELyw) to get an initial ring. Chop and pare a good amount of the wood away with a chisel, then use a router plane (e.g. this beauty http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-router-plane-701927) to get the final level (and also clean the bottom of the pocket). That solution would be the most dust free, obviously the quietest, and the router plane above is a joy to use.
 
I agree with you the regarding the safety side of things (although I'm not sure the box section was galvanized, it looks like millscale to me) the putting power in bit did make me a bit twitchy though. I've given up watching these things with safety in mind, you can't safe all the idiots.

using a guide with a plasma cutter is pretty old school, I've got a piece of ali with magnets glued in the bottom for just such a purpose.

I also thought more of using the tremal to make a template. tape (double sided) a sheet of wood down and put the pin though it and the backer, cut your hole, then remove the template, no need for a lathe or additional tools.

I'm lucky, I have a life time of tools to play with, mine as an amateur and my fathers (sadly passed away) as a professional. still trying to work out how to fit it all in a single (granted large single) garage.

edit: just been and looked again, I can see why you think it's galvinised, i don't think it is, I think its very very dusty, he works outside in the middle east somewhere, everything gets that look out there especially when you stick a camera with the exposure racked up at it.

yes galvanic posioning is nasty.
 
novocaine":2xh72tvb said:
edit: just been and looked again, I can see why you think it's galvinised, i don't think it is, I think its very very dusty, he works outside in the middle east somewhere, everything gets that look out there especially when you stick a camera with the exposure racked up at it.

yes galvanic posioning is nasty.

Point taken (He's really creative and good -I don't want to be critical at all), but there are obvious clouds of fumes coming off the MIG set (in the wide shots doing the heavy part of the frame). I can't think of a reason for this unless it's either oil coated or galv. Being a poor welder, I use lots of anti-spatter spray usually, and it doesn't make that much steam.
 
Eric The Viking":3dcpnkvp said:
novocaine":3dcpnkvp said:
edit: just been and looked again, I can see why you think it's galvinised, i don't think it is, I think its very very dusty, he works outside in the middle east somewhere, everything gets that look out there especially when you stick a camera with the exposure racked up at it.

yes galvanic posioning is nasty.

Point taken (He's really creative and good -I don't want to be critical at all), but there are obvious clouds of fumes coming off the MIG set (in the wide shots doing the heavy part of the frame). I can't think of a reason for this unless it's either oil coated or galv. Being a poor welder, I use lots of anti-spatter spray usually, and it doesn't make that much steam.

looks about right to me to be honest, you can't see the smoke with a mask on. lol.

about 2.51 in this vid you can see the amount of smoke you get of metal with milscale still on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ab_Xejkway4

I've only recently watched his vids, he's got some good ideas and plenty of skill to boot.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top