Chisels or a plane - or both?-Now incl New Stanley Plane Pic

[MIGNAL]

I'd be more inclined to give Ray Iles a call and see if he has an older 60.5 in good order. It's not that a new Stanley is a complete pile of junk but the older examples - pre 1950's - are a little better. My 60.5 hails from the glory years of the early 1980's :shock: but it works OK. Knowing what I know now etc. I'd would have chosen an older plane. Ebay will get you a cheaper plane but it's also risky, you just might end up with something that's chipped or not quite as stated in the description. That's one of the advantages of buying a plane from someone like Ray Iles, in effect it's already been vetted by someone who knows about tools.
That's if you want or require a 60.5. Other sizes/types may be of more use to you, dependent on your needs.

Ooops! I've just noticed that you wrote 'new Stanley range'. That might be a very good option although I'd wait for the reviews.

 

[bugbear]

The side bevels are also higher than the AI but there's not a lot you can do about that..

The sainted Alf, late of this parish, might differ on that point.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... 170#130170

BugBear

 

[MIGNAL]

Alf's chisel looks like it can also be used as a drawknife, 2 for the price of 1. :arrow:

 

[woodbloke]

The side bevels are also higher than the AI but there's not a lot you can do about that..

The sainted Alf, late of this parish, might differ on that point.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... 170#130170

BugBear

St.Alf did indeed grind down the side bevels, so yes BB it can be done...if you have access to a belt sander but I don't - Rob

 

[Mikey R]

Whilst reading this thread, it seems that the majority of people here are suggesting that general bench chisels need to be beefier than the skinny bevel edge kind for fine joinery.

Isnt this traditionally the job for firmer chisels? Or am I misunderstanding?

Cheers!

p.s. Ive got a set of extreamly cheap modern Stanleys. Using an Arkansas stone I can get an edge sharp enough to work hard maple but they lose their edge very quickly, even in softwoods. I would guess the Footprints are better.

 

[cutting42]

I've been shopping at Tilgear today and the budget got a bit blown

Pics later.........

 

[JohnCee]

Hi Gareth,
For chisels I would recommend Ashly Iles, ther about £13-£14 a piece and hold there eage brilliantly
Richard

...good overall, but the steel is nowhere near as good as the Pheil's - Rob

Strange. I have chisels/gouges from both, and would say that the Ashley Iles steel is better.
(but neither as good as Japanese, IMO).

 

[woodbloke]

Hi Gareth,
For chisels I would recommend Ashly Iles, ther about £13-£14 a piece and hold there eage brilliantly
Richard

...good overall, but the steel is nowhere near as good as the Pheil's - Rob

Strange. I have chisels/gouges from both, and would say that the Ashley Iles steel is better.
(but neither as good as Japanese, IMO).

...you probably didn't do the tests that I did though :wink: - Rob

 

[JohnCee]

Hi Gareth,
For chisels I would recommend Ashly Iles, ther about £13-£14 a piece and hold there eage brilliantly
Richard

...good overall, but the steel is nowhere near as good as the Pheil's - Rob

Strange. I have chisels/gouges from both, and would say that the Ashley Iles steel is better.
(but neither as good as Japanese, IMO).

...you probably didn't do the tests that I did though :wink: - Rob

Guess not. I was just going off how well they take and keep an edge.

 

[joiner_sim]

I like using my Irwin Marples Chisels, a set that is about £50-£60, they sharpen up really well.

Hand planes..... I've got a Stanley Bailey that is alright after you have tweaked about with it quite alot. I've also got an 1950's record that is brilliant, the old quality is the best!
Stanley Bailey Review> http://www.freewebs.com/simonswoodwork/stanleyno4.htm

 

[woodbloke]

I like using my Irwin Marples Chisel

If they're the ones with the yellow acetate handles...not too bad :wink: - Rob

 

[cutting42]

Bit late, got watching a recorded Poirot on the silly person box and it was a 2hr jobbie. However took some snaps of todays spending:

A rather lovely 60.5 from the brand new Stanley Range, compared with the LN and at a visual level compared very well for half the price. still not cleaned and fettled yet as I am informed that it needs wrapping up for my birthday :evil:

Nicely prepped base and adjustable mouth.
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Well the kind man also showed the #4 as well and one thing led to another:

More lovelyness

I am not qualified to compare, contrast or review them but the have a very solid feel to them and adjust beautifully, I think I am going to be very happy when I get to use them.

Also got some 1200 wet and dry for some scary sharp sharpening - thanks bugbear!

 

[woodbloke]

First time I've seen a couple of the new range 'in the metal'...they look good - Rob

 

[bugbear]

Bit late, got watching a recorded Poirot on the silly person box and it was a 2hr jobbie. However took some snaps of todays spending:

Colour me ignorant, but I didn't know they were on sale yet - where'd they come from?

BugBear

 

[cutting42]

Hi Bugbear

They were from Tilgear, I don't live too far from there and saw them in their catalogue. According to them they are the only supplier at the moment and they have supplied one of the woodie mags with review samples.

They have the 60.5, 9.5, No. 4 with a 92 shoulder plane currently due in soon I believe.

 

[Max Power]

First pictures Ive seen of the "real thing" and they look very good. Rather surprised they havnt been promoted more extensively though. :?

 

[andy king]

If you only have diamond stones, you're NOT getting your edges sharp enough. Diamonds are simply not available in fine enough grits for final edge finishing.
BugBear

There is a very fine diamond stone available from DMT http://www.dmtsharp.com/general/new.htm#d8ee although I do disagree that you cannot get final edge finishing from normal diamond stones. I've used a Trend one for a number of years now and had no problem getting very keen edges from it. (Actually, while demoing at Axminster one year, I was asked if David Charlesworth sharpened my plane irons because of how well they were cutting :shock: - they were somewhat surprised when I proceeded to blunt the iron on the vice, then rehone on my solitary Trend stoneand continue where I left of in a matter of a minute or so...)
It all depends on what you are working with. I can get a very keen edge more than good enough for the 'normal' timbers such as oak, ash, maple, cherry etc, although if I was moving on to really dense hard stuff like some of the Aussie ones, i would look to go a tad finer.

cheers
Andy

 

[bugbear]

If you only have diamond stones, you're NOT getting your edges sharp enough. Diamonds are simply not available in fine enough grits for final edge finishing.
BugBear

There is a very fine diamond stone available from DMT http://www.dmtsharp.com/general/new.htm#d8ee

Ah - I thought diamond stones topped out at 1200 grit (equivalent), in the blue-red-green DMT colour codes, hence my remarks.

Certainly the edge achieveable from any given abrasive can be improved quite extensively by the operator excising a degree of touch/finesse/control (magic!) at the end of the process.

BugBear

 

[woodbloke]

Axminster do the same thing which I would have bought had I not got hold of the 10000g Spyderco ceramic - Rob

 

[Harbo]

From the photos they look rather well made?
I was hoping for firms like LV and LN they would be rubbish!?
Still I suppose more competition the better and might keep prices down?

Rod