Hello again
I presume you may have seen this thread
http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7131&p=117458&hilit=Centauro#p117458
One suggestion was it may be possible with a coke can.
That certainly looks way beyond what a bearing seating compound could do.
Having possibly a little of those issues myself, though not loose, something is up.
Many schools of thought on this, and maybe dependent on if you can get someone to do that for you, should you try a diy solution, I think you'll need new tires first, as they are in really bad shape.
You should be able to spot whether the wheels have a groove like in Sam Blasco minimax mm16 video.
You can get those from Scott&Sargeant, or possibly Conway saw.
Or you could opt for cambered tires from somewhere else for your use, what's more suited to curves, should those wheels have a groove, you may wish to fill them.
Alternatively, you could make yer own cheaply with some "rubber and gasket material" either,
You can get it as thick,
and as wide as you like !
My most recent of tests have proved useful in determining whether the bore is accurate or not,
this method will highlight the furthest variant of the wheel (which may not actually be off)
but that's not to say the bore ain't.
The original intention was simply for wheel alignment, but it happened to show up the errors,
(after quite a bit of head scratching, I might add)
Should you wish to try shimming, it would be a very good way to check.
This plank measures 40mm thick (enough to brace against chassis and beam clearance)
x94mm wide, (enough to be able to keep the beam stable whilst marking out on the skew)
and to just about tuck into the right hand side of the upper wheel,
so you could draw a mark from the extreme.
You'd need new tires and a good blade to do so.
Though Ideally there wouldn't be any difference where the beam is placed on the wheel,
there is a noticeable variance on my upper wheel, my lower wheel is spot on, so not photographed.
This is just highlighting the use of the plank mainly, as I can't capture all the image to demonstrate the two line markings drawn, which shows up the highest point on the wheel, compared to the opposite.
You can find that out from either side of the machine...
You may note I've mapped out the wheels doing so, and put more tape on the highest spot of the wheel.
This line you can draw from one side, and then rotate that high point of the wheel to the other side of the machine.
Do the lines match up?
As you can see they don't on mine, the line drawn from the right side, being behind the one on the left,
what seems likely around the same error over the 24" wheel span, as the variance of the marks pictured below.
That's presuming the lower wheel is somewhere close to being aligned and not bananas, as that may influence the top wheel, so perhaps a little rinse and repeating needed.
Lower wheel alignment check, with acknowledgment of wheel error, so only ball park at best.
You should map out the bottom wheel also, just to see, mine was bang on, no variance in the line drawn.
Seems like I was getting a 3mm+ variance with my top wheel,
so getting a true reading is impossible without sorting out....
But it doesn't stop me from trying,
Also made note of where the rim was making contact, no correlation with the high spots in which the beam denotes.
Looks like you've got some bearing spacer issues going on, but that may be different if all is put right.
The bearing should sit proud on the shaft, so that the wheel retaining washer is keeping everything solid as below.
Seemingly less room for error with the circlip inside the bore on those wheels, most other manufacturers have the circlips on the outside of the bearings with a plastic spacer inside.
Perhaps Centauro do this for greater accuracy or performance, I dunno,
but it seems less forgiving of a setup, and very possibly relies on things being setup correctly, and kept that way.
This might be handy down the road a bit...
So now I've mapped differing variables and whatnot, so perhaps getting a little confusing.
With no other option than to pull the bearings out of the bores and try find a possible small burr, or whatever,
I've made one last ditch effort to try and get some more use from the machine, which might hopefully enable wheel alignment, stop those knocking and creeking noises, associated excessive fore and aft movement of the blade, and the problems with cutting all that results in...
without diving deep into finding out how to ascertain and fix those issues, that is!
If you can spot the difference, you might roll your eyes, lol.
Only saying it might make one consider this stuff if you happen to go the same route, and will try anything on the off chance it may work.
Should you wish to have a bit more chance of a successful bodge, whilst not be able to afford the boring job yet, as It's pretty bad looking to me, it may tide you over until then.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/anyone-had-success-with-homeade-bandsaw-tyres.104443/page-2
Eager to get sticking more tape down, and truly get to know my machine inside and out.
Thanks for pictures
I'd still snap it off your hands for a hundred squid!
Best of luck with the machine project
Tom