Ceiling mounted crown guard.

[heimlaga]

As I have always said. Knife mounted guards are dangerous because they must be removed for lots of jobs and tend to remain removed.
I would never ever accept that kind of pseudo guard on a saw of mine because insurance would not cover such amateurish practises as removed guards. I have discussed it with the local safety inspectors in Vasa and also with the insurance company.
All professional quality saws have overarm guards and in vocational school we were taught that a low riving knife plus overarm guard is the only approved way of doing a trenching or shoulder cut on a table saw in a professional environment. To my knowledge this still stands true.



Dennis.
Go to the scrap yard and fetch a suitable piece of 10 mm mild steel plate to screw to the ceiling (40x40 cm should do) and a piece of 50x50 by 3 or 4 mm box section pipe for the upright plus a bit of thinner plate for some triangular braces to reinforce the joint between pipe and plate. Measure the correct lenght of the upright and I can cut the parts to size and weld them together and drill all the holes for some 10 or maybe 20 euros of your dad is too busy to do it. Then you can make the guard and the parallellogram movement yourself.
If you screw a big piece of thick plywood to the ceiling and screw the plate to the plywood the forces will be properly distributed.

I think you should make use of the approved Suva guard that you already have and just fasten it's mechanism to the lower end of the upright pipe.

 

[PAC1]

Denis I can see your problem. I am sure you have considered this, but can you sited the machine with the bracket against the wall. Is the slider easily removable?

 

[DennisCA]

The slider is easy enough to remove, but the slider is a feature I use almost every single time I use the saw, it's perhaps it's best feature. I don't think I will make a ceiling mount anymore so this thread had a concrete result anyway. My shop's not too small to use the thing with the long mitre fence on the slider, but two thumb screws remove and replace it fast as lighting. So what I think I will do is buy some aluminum extrusions from motedis and get a new shorter fence and only use this one when needed.

The wooden one I made wasn't usable, flexed so much I never got anything square.

 

[PAC1]

Kreg do an extrusion for bandsaws with T tracks for a flip stop (made or bought) that might work.

 

[Sporky McGuffin]

I'd be concerned that a projector mount isn't designed to take a bending moment; the mount is unlikely to be stiff enough with a side load on it. I reckon you need the welder out and a bracing solution that spans two or three ceiling joists for it to have sufficient stability to stop a large kickback.

I think you're absolutely right about the ones you can buy from Amazon or similar, but the Unicol stuff is built to a very different standard and there are various bracing solutions too. It does depend on just how hard you're going to hit the poor thing of course!