Bosch POF1200AE Router 8mm collet

[BluegillUK]

Morning all,

New to woodworking, so treat me gently

I was using my Bosch router yesterday to roundover some stripwood to make a frame. It was all going OK and then I needed to change bit, so I popped in my roundover bit not realising that it was much smaller than the straight bit I had in. Without thinking about it, I tightened the 8mm collet around what I later learned was a 1/4" bit. Probably not the first to make that mistake but will sure learn never to do that again.

Basically, my 8mm collet has been overtightened and Bosch want £30 odd for a new one. The Router cost me £50. So I'm a bit angry at myself for not paying more attention and just gliding along on autopilot.

What I came here to ask is if anyone has anywhere they use for spare parts where I may be able to get another collet for a little bit less than what Bosch want for it. Alternatively if anyone has an old POF1200AE that they're no longer using, would be more than happy to purchase the bit but I know that's a long shot.

The third party bits I'cve got at the moment are all 1/4" so I'm not hindered currently but I think the Bosch bits are 8mm and I really want the option to use them when I need to. The 8mm bit will go in but it's a squeeze and it takes an age to get it out.

Sorry for the ramble and please mods, pop this in the relevant category (if there is one!)

Thanks,

Blue

 

[Adam9453]

Its a frustrating problem to come across that but I'd just disregard the 8mm router bits and use 1/4 inch ones instead.
The router bits that come with routers are normally cheap and nasty things, for example I typically expect to pay £20-30 per router bit for a decent quality bit (more for specialist or large bits) from wealden tools.
So when you think your router cost £50, that only equates to about 2 decent quality router bits (ignoring the router itself).
The bosch POF1200AE is actually a nice capable little router, the only real downsides being the depth stop turret is carp and should be removed so you are referencing the height of the base of the router instead (it can't vary then) and I found the plunge springs are a bit too strong in my opinion which means it requires a lot of force to push it down, resulting in either the router being up or completely down in a sharp motion.
There are worst mistakes you could have made so just put it down to the learning curve

 

[BluegillUK]

Hey Adam!

Thank you for your speedy response, much appreciated. You've certainly made me feel much better!

Is it not the case then that 8mm bits are 'better' for want of a better word than the smaller diameter bits or does it really not matter? I only bought a rubbish set of bits to start as I wanted to get used to the machine with inexpensive bits before I invested, if that makes sense.

Can I just check that the depth stop turret is for routing successive depths? As in, you'd make a few passes so you'd take off a little bit first then set it to the next stop and take a little more off etc. Is it just not accurate? If I take it off, what's the protocol for successive depth cuts?

...and yes! The plunge springs are strong and jerky, so getting a smooth action is a pain in the backside, but I'm getting used to it! Sorry for the questions!!!

Thanks again,

Nick

 

[Adam9453]

The quality of the bits is not determined by the shank diameter don't worry, a decent quality 1/4 inch shank bit will be just as good as a decent quality 8mm shank bit. Some router bit manufacturers actually recommend smaller shank bits for certain cutter designs because they say less machining was involved to make them which results in a stronger bit.
I think most of us buy one of those sets thinking its a good way to get started but in reality the sets often don't contain the actual bit you want for a given task so you can end up searching pointlessly.
These days I work out the best bit for a given task, check if I have it then when I find I probably don't have it (always the way) I go to wealden tools and order the bit I need.
Yes the turret is supposed to give you a few different depth options so you can progressively rout deeper and deeper until you reach your final depth. however if the depth stop is wobbly then it can give you inconsistent results. Imagine you are routing a nice shape to the edge of the board and the bit wobbled up and down throughout the cut, you'd end up with a wobbly inconsistent shape to the edge of the board. With a router you really want rock solid settings so that once set it doesn't change. Given how much routers vibrate, its more of a challenge than you might think.
Without the turret you just set your depth for each cutting stage rather than relying on the turret, its a bit slower but much more reliable.
Yeah you certainly need to get used to those springs, you'll have arms like popeye in no time from trying to plunge it smoothly.
You'll probably find at some point in the future you might want a 'better' router but at least your experience with the bosch you've got will highlight what better features you want in your next router. A note of warning, the most expensive is not necessarily the best despite what some will tell you.
Have fun and be careful, the router can bite nastily if you don't give it your full attention.

 

[sunnybob]

Try one of these.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-ro ... s-ax362891

cutter sizes drive me crazy, I have 1/4" 6 mm, 8 mm, 3/8", and 1/2" cutters.
But you can often nuiy old cutters in pretty good condition, so a variety of sleeves is very useful.

 

[BluegillUK]

The quality of the bits is not determined by the shank diameter don't worry, a decent quality 1/4 inch shank bit will be just as good as a decent quality 8mm shank bit. Some router bit manufacturers actually recommend smaller shank bits for certain cutter designs because they say less machining was involved to make them which results in a stronger bit.
I think most of us buy one of those sets thinking its a good way to get started but in reality the sets often don't contain the actual bit you want for a given task so you can end up searching pointlessly.
These days I work out the best bit for a given task, check if I have it then when I find I probably don't have it (always the way) I go to wealden tools and order the bit I need.
Yes the turret is supposed to give you a few different depth options so you can progressively rout deeper and deeper until you reach your final depth. however if the depth stop is wobbly then it can give you inconsistent results. Imagine you are routing a nice shape to the edge of the board and the bit wobbled up and down throughout the cut, you'd end up with a wobbly inconsistent shape to the edge of the board. With a router you really want rock solid settings so that once set it doesn't change. Given how much routers vibrate, its more of a challenge than you might think.
Without the turret you just set your depth for each cutting stage rather than relying on the turret, its a bit slower but much more reliable.
Yeah you certainly need to get used to those springs, you'll have arms like popeye in no time from trying to plunge it smoothly.
You'll probably find at some point in the future you might want a 'better' router but at least your experience with the bosch you've got will highlight what better features you want in your next router. A note of warning, the most expensive is not necessarily the best despite what some will tell you.
Have fun and be careful, the router can bite nastily if you don't give it your full attention.

Thanks for the info Adam, certainly makes me feel a little better! Just checked out Wealden, what a selection and the bits I'm likely to want aren't colossally expensive, which is great.

I'll take the turret off tonight and try it on some scrap softwood. I presume you still use the depth guide rod yeah?

As you say this is an entry level machine- when I was in B&Q the other day, although I wouldn't buy one, the JCB router had a lovely soft slow plunge motion, felt very fluid. If I get on with this machine and use it enough to justify a new one, I'll upgrade. I've been paying attention to the cutting rotation direction, the grain direction of my material and have been wearing the appropriate PPE, so staying as vigilant as poss during operation.

Thanks for the help again!

 

[BluegillUK]

Try one of these.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-ro ... s-ax362891

cutter sizes drive me crazy, I have 1/4" 6 mm, 8 mm, 3/8", and 1/2" cutters.
But you can often nuiy old cutters in pretty good condition, so a variety of sleeves is very useful.

Hi Bob, thank you for the info. Still none the wiser as to what will fit my machine so going to play it by ear!

 

[sunnybob]

If your machine will take a 1/2" cutter, that reducing collar will fit and allow you to use cutters of whatever size collar (sleeve) you order. you dont have to pay bosch prices.

 

[BluegillUK]

If your machine will take a 1/2" cutter, that reducing collar will fit and allow you to use cutters of whatever size collar (sleeve) you order. you dont have to pay bosch prices.

Ah I see, thanks Bob. Unfortunately it's not suitable for 1/2" cutters