Bog standard centres for stud walls

[blackrodd]

FWIW, I would work backwards from what the plasterboard needs. From memory, the British Gypsum 'white book' says that 12mm plasterboard needs max. 400 spacing. Cheers, W2S

PS there's nothing worse than an under-specified, flimsy, stud wall IMHO

Wrong! BG specify 9.5mm @400 centres, and 12.7 @600 centres.
See below, page 338 item 7
Rodders

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/My%20Documents/Downloads/SITE-BOOK-Timber-Joist%20(1).pdf

 

[n0legs]

My way.
Studding at 400 centres, overboard with 1/2" ply, then plasterboard.
If it's a wall likely to be fitted out with shelving or fixed cupboards I've done 2" x 2" studding and two layers of 3/4" ply, then plasterboard on the heavily loaded side, ply and plasterboard on the other.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

FWIW, I would work backwards from what the plasterboard needs. From memory, the British Gypsum 'white book' says that 12mm plasterboard needs max. 400 spacing. Cheers, W2S

PS there's nothing worse than an under-specified, flimsy, stud wall IMHO

Wrong! BG specify 9.5mm @400 centres, and 12.7 @600 centres.
See below, page 338 item 7
Rodders

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/My%20Documents/Downloads/SITE-BOOK-Timber-Joist%20(1).pdf

I'm not sure my memory is completely faulty. I think it depends on whether or not you want to go to the bother of nogging the board edges (it's not something I enjoy spending my time doing, although I suppose it stiffens up the wall a bit). With unsupported edges, they suggest max 450 spacing for half inch boards (but 400 works better with 4X8 boards of course) (e.g. diagram on page 344) but 600 with supported edges (as page 345) so we're both "wrong" in our own way!

I like the idea of putting ply (or OSB) behind the plasterboard to give something to attach stuff to (and to beef up the structure).

Cheers, W2S

 

[Phil Pascoe]

N0legs has omitted to mention that he has a business building asylums and padded cells.
Seriously - my friend worked in Spectrum homes, and their ceilings were 18mm ply!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I would always use 4" x 2" if doing my own as to me 3" x 2" and 12mm board doesn't seem very stiff, and put in 6" or 7" x 1" noggins for lighting, then if it turns out your lighting has a well off centre entry hole you're still in with a good chance of the noggin being usable. There's nothing quite so irritating as having noggins in the wrong place on a wall you've only just put up. #-o

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I like the idea of putting ply (or OSB) behind the plasterboard to give something to attach stuff to (and to beef up the structure).

Cheers, W2S

Me too, I generally favour block with a nice covering of sand & cement, finish plaster and paint. I've never had any problems hanging heavy fixings in that substrate......it's these pesky stud walls that are a pain in the wotsit. Whoever invented them should be made to hang anvils with red plugs onto cotton wool for months on end!

 

[Wizard9999]

I like the idea of putting ply (or OSB) behind the plasterboard to give something to attach stuff to (and to beef up the structure).

Cheers, W2S

Me too, I generally favour block with a nice covering of sand & cement, finish plaster and paint. I've never had any problems hanging heavy fixings in that substrate......it's these pesky stud walls that are a pain in the wotsit. Whoever invented them should be made to hang anvils with red plugs onto cotton wool for months on end!

Or, maybe the bloke who had your house built in 2007 should be forced to hang heavy mirrors from the stud walls he left in place / had built :lol:

I'll retire to a safe distance now :wink:

Terry.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

You can go off ppl y'know Terry

 

[Wizard9999]

You can go off ppl y'know Terry

Well I only felt safe saying it because you know you only have to shout and I'll pop around to help if I can. Seriously, if it is that big and you need another pair of hands just shout.

Terry.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks mate....it's more figuring the way to do it that causes minimum damage to the stud wall. I did think about a French cleat but the guvnor's concerned it would push the mirror too far away from the wall and make it look odd. At the end of the day, I need to positively find the stud centres before I can get it done and I lost this weekend to wood turning workshops and birthday celebrations so no further progress.

There was actually a sensible reason we specified the stud wall there, think it was something to do with the steels but I cant remember now because literally everywhere else, including internal, non supporting walls we used block. Partly for just this reason and partly for the acoustic qualities.

 

[Wizard9999]

What about something like this?

http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/p/popular- ... 68656/9179

Same principle as a French cleat but won't push it away from the wall.

Terry.