Blade position on a 502E conflicting with top guides

[Carlow52]

Set up my 502E today having read the instruction manual and the relevant sections of the books by Mark Duginske and Lonnie Bird. Am working through Steve Maskery's dvd on same.

The instruction manual is explicit: have the teeth off the front edge to save the rubber.
Lonnie Bird suggest the middle, and Duginske suggests the edge for coarse blades or and carbide/ bi metal blades.

The blade I have is a 1" by 0.035" 3 skip raker

The problem I have is that if I have the teeth off the edge of the wheel, the guides are no longer // to the blade as the adjustable top guard is moved up or down depending on material thickness being cut.

If the blade is in the middle of the wheel, i.e. on the crown, then the guides are // to blade but rubber gets marked.

Would welcome thoughts/advice please

 

[Steve Maskery]

You have discovered the Bandsaw Paradox.



The trad way to set the blade is just off the rubber. BUT, this has other unintended consequences. That is why I recommend setting it centrally. Yes, it marks the rubber, but you get a much better cut and tracking is easier. The price you pay is a shorter life-span of the tyres. They will still last ages, so, for me at least, it is a price worth paying.
Cheers
Steve

 

[Jacob]

I've been running my Startrite 352 for 30+ years with all blades roughly centered on the wheels, teeth n all. No prob.
I did wonder about replacing the tyres at one point but the price put me off (you have to replace the whole wheel). Also no prob it's still running fine (but looks a bit rusty).
It's good for another 30 (I'll just have to hang on in to get my mony's worth).

 

[Racers]

Hi, Mr Rimsdale

I posted a link to some one selling 352 wheels on Ebay cheap a while ago, I got a replacement one for mine for about £30.


Pete

 

[OPJ]

I thought this was a common 'fault' with most bandsaws? Most manuals and technical teams will advise you to stop the saw before making any major adjustments to the guard height anyway,as there is an increased risk of injury. That also gives you the time to safely adjust the guides. I have similar problem with my 401e, even with the blade tracked centrally (although, that may have more to do with the fact that I've replaced the tyre and have had to true it, etc. ...).

Jacob - I know that's what Startrite recommend (as the tyres are bonded, trued and balanced in the factory) but, there's nothing to stop you sourcing out the service of a local firm to do the same thing with your old tyre. Before made a DIY job of it on my saw, I had a quote from KV Rollers in South Wales, who would've fitted, trued and cambered a new tyre for about £100 (I think that was including VAT; £75-ish plus). That's only double what it cost me in purchasing a new tyre and the glue (£21.15!!!). My saw works again but, I'm the first to admit I haven't done a perfect job of it...

I used some of this rubber-cork material, as recommended by one of the guys on this forum. It's easier to 'cut' and true than the ordinary stuff and, apparently, it won't knock the set off the blades either... Not that I've ever noticed this problem, either.

 

[Carlow52]

Thanks to you all,( also to Blister for his recommendations on books)

I agree that running on the edge gives a less satisfactory performance than in the middle so its back in the middle now

I must say its a joy to work with once you figure out all the adjustments for the guides and the right sequence

After 35+ years of using a table saw the absence of potential kickback makes a hugh difference.

 

[dickm]

It's good for another 30 (I'll just have to hang on in to get my mony's worth).

... as a pensioner, I don't think I'll get that long with my 352 .
But, yes, also run the blades centrally, with no obvious signs of wear on the tyres and doesn't even seem to need re-tracking with a blade change.