best thing for large sheets of melamine

[clk230]

When getting cuts from timber merchant. The edges have the worst tear out I have ever seen. So I usually get an inch or to extra for trimming

Not all timber merchants are equal :wink:

 

[chippy1970]

Here's my version of an mft. I made it from 18mm MR MDF and made a router jig to rout all the 20mm holes. I use the dewalt horses which are really solid, I also use them with a bigger bench for cutting bigger stuff.

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[Marcjwebb]

is there any way that you can add the flip down track to your set up? its this that is making me want it for cross cuts

 

[chippy1970]

is there any way that you can add the flip down track to your set up? its this that is making me want it for cross cuts

You don't need to you just use 3 bench dogs. The sheet you are cutting goes against the top 2 and then the rail butts up to a dog top and bottom of the sheet. This will cut square every time and if you clamp some sort of length stop to the table you have repeatability

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[Marcjwebb]

is that what you do and can clarify its accuracy? also do you have anymore pics at all

 

[Benchwayze]

I must give due credit to GBS, here in Great Barr. The machines they have there are excellent and the edges are good. But I still allow a 1/4 inch or so when I ask them to break down sheets.

Cheers

 

[mahomo59]

Great thread! Just read every comment and found it very interesting.
I own mft/3, ts55, startrite 275a...and 90% of the time will use Avonplywood to cut all my sheet goods. They guarantee .2mm accuracy, it's incredible. Absolutely spot on. I just need to more organised in time to submit list, 4-5 turn around. They edge as well. Feel really lucky to have them on my doorstep. Btw zero breakout on mfc

 

[chippy1970]

is that what you do and can clarify its accuracy? also do you have anymore pics at all

Yeah , my main use for it is when I'm fitting kitchens for cutting panels.
Yes it does cut square every time, depending on how accurately you drill the holes out.

I don't have any other pics but google should bring up a few for you

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[Eric The Viking]

Great thread! Just read every comment and found it very interesting.
I own mft/3, ts55, startrite 275a...and 90% of the time will use Avonplywood to cut all my sheet goods. They guarantee .2mm accuracy, it's incredible. Absolutely spot on. I just need to more organised in time to submit list, 4-5 turn around. They edge as well. Feel really lucky to have them on my doorstep. Btw zero breakout on mfc

I visited them for the first time on Wednesday. That is one HUGE warehouse!

I was probably their least-spending customer of the year (2x 2mm MDF sheets @ around 7.50 each!), but will be back shortly with a large cutting list...

... It's just a PITA that they're on the other side of town - 45min each way.

Still, nice people and what is generally agreed to be fantastic service.

E.

 

[HOJ]

Never had any issues with the cutting service from Ipswich Plastics, i fitted out an Opticians shop a couple of years ago, 25 sheets, all cut precisely and cleanly, and edged.

However, I have made the Ron Paulk style table for cutting down sheets, when I need to, I can cut full width 1220mm as well as the length cuts, with ease.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCWj36qWuQ4

I also made a smaller MFT type table, to take to site, and using the Parf dogs, is spot on for trimming up, again if I need to.

 

[sjalloq]

Only just seen this thread and thought I'd comment. I've got the TS55 and have cut some pretty cheap melamine for my garage cupboards.

Yes, it does chip quite easily but there's a nice trick and only using the standard blade I was able to get clean face edges. Once you've set up your track in position, take a very light pass of just 1mm by passing the saw backwards down the track. Normally you push the saw from the standing end of the track to the end furthest away. By pulling it you are effectively climb cutting and the teeth are entering the material from the top rather than coming up through the melamine and spelching. Once you've done the shallow pass, set the depth stop to full depth and cut normally.

I saw a video of this technique on FOG somewhere. You might find it if you have a search but it works well in practice.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Only just seen this thread and thought I'd comment. I've got the TS55 and have cut some pretty cheap melamine for my garage cupboards.

Yes, it does chip quite easily but there's a nice trick and only using the standard blade I was able to get clean face edges. Once you've set up your track in position, take a very light pass of just 1mm by passing the saw backwards down the track. Normally you push the saw from the standing end of the track to the end furthest away. By pulling it you are effectively climb cutting and the teeth are entering the material from the top rather than coming up through the melamine and spelching. Once you've done the shallow pass, set the depth stop to full depth and cut normally.

I saw a video of this technique on FOG somewhere. You might find it if you have a search but it works well in practice.

Of course, there's a button on the Makita that instantly limits the depth for that purpose. I also use it to trim the rubber edge strip, although Festool say it should be 7mm depth (can't remember what Makita say).

Sometimes blue-and-silver beats black and green ;-)

 

[Benchwayze]

Only just seen this thread and thought I'd comment. I've got the TS55 and have cut some pretty cheap melamine for my garage cupboards.

Yes, it does chip quite easily but there's a nice trick and only using the standard blade I was able to get clean face edges. Once you've set up your track in position, take a very light pass of just 1mm by passing the saw backwards down the track. Normally you push the saw from the standing end of the track to the end furthest away. By pulling it you are effectively climb cutting and the teeth are entering the material from the top rather than coming up through the melamine and spelching. Once you've done the shallow pass, set the depth stop to full depth and cut normally.

I saw a video of this technique on FOG somewhere. You might find it if you have a search but it works well in practice.

Of course, there's a button on the Makita that instantly limits the depth for that purpose. I also use it to trim the rubber edge strip, although Festool say it should be 7mm depth (can't remember what Makita say).

Sometimes blue-and-silver beats black and green ;-)

True? I am after a good hammer drill. Is the Makita 8406 Diamond Core Percussion drill any good? 8)

 

[chippy1970]

Only just seen this thread and thought I'd comment. I've got the TS55 and have cut some pretty cheap melamine for my garage cupboards.

Yes, it does chip quite easily but there's a nice trick and only using the standard blade I was able to get clean face edges. Once you've set up your track in position, take a very light pass of just 1mm by passing the saw backwards down the track. Normally you push the saw from the standing end of the track to the end furthest away. By pulling it you are effectively climb cutting and the teeth are entering the material from the top rather than coming up through the melamine and spelching. Once you've done the shallow pass, set the depth stop to full depth and cut normally.

I saw a video of this technique on FOG somewhere. You might find it if you have a search but it works well in practice.

Of course, there's a button on the Makita that instantly limits the depth for that purpose. I also use it to trim the rubber edge strip, although Festool say it should be 7mm depth (can't remember what Makita say).

Sometimes blue-and-silver beats black and green ;-)

Yeah but that button can also be a right pain in the backside. Ive got a ts55 but have used several makita plunge saws while on site . All the ones I've used the rubber end has gone missing and the bloody scribe button keeps kicking in on its own when you don't want it.

On my ts55 I just set it to 2mm on the rail , run the saw backwards then change the depth to 5mm more than the material and cut through. Yeah the scribe button would be handy but it doesn't speed things up that much.

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[Eric The Viking]

I take your point but I find it handy - you can leave the depth stop set correctly, and switch between the two depths without fuss.

I also make quite a bit of use of the anti-tip function. I'm sure real men don't or whatever, but it gives confidence.