bench building advice needed ...please

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nickson71

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I'm just thinking about on of my jobs for the new year and it's building a bench............


I'm going to be using a recycling a couple of lab benchs I got from work

the two tops (1inch thick) will be ripped in to 6.5cm widths and these will be glued up to give a 6ish cm top after clean up. The rest of the lab benches will be pulled apart and cleaned up and laminated together to make the frame with anyother timber that maybe required.

I'll be only having one vice on the front at the left hand side .... the question I've got is where do I put the dog holes as I've now discovered I've no idea where to put them ...............

In most of the picture I've seen the dog holes are in-line with the tail vice but I've no room for one of these

Thanks

Ian
 
You could still have a row of dogs along the bench but use a wonder dog

It would also be useful to have a pair of holes in your front vice with matching dog holes front to back of the bench top, very handy for holding round work.

Jason
 
There are plans in FWW#181 for a bench made almost entirely from laminated plywood - two sheets. O.K., 3/4" material rather than 1", but seems a perfectly feasible design.
If you happen to be a member of FWW.com, the plans are a free download.
 
Thanks Manso


I've already got the plans from FWW.com ....... But I work in a science building at a University and there is currently being a few Labs being refitted and I've got hold of a two benchs, two floor units and a two wall unit that were destined for the skip ........ This way I'm recycling and in a short space of time I should get my small workshop up and running so I can make some more furniture ......... and justify to SWMBO the amount of money I've spent on tools and building the shed/workshop


Ian
 
I think my message was overly succinct. I was suggesting you use the recyclable material. I was simply pointing out the difference in thickness and trying, via the two sheets remark, to give you an idea what area of material you might require.
Regards
 
don't forget it is often better to use a replaceable top to ensure that it stays flat and true.

as for the dog holes. how about this as a way to go.

drill a set of holes at 6inch centers all down the length about 6inches in.
about 3/4 hole. then make a couple of blocks with dowels in them. these are your end stops, but to allow for planing, you could add bases to them
then make wedges to go between the blocks and the wood.

in the old days, and i am sure in jacob's workshop :lol: :twisted:
that' s how it is still done. :?

the veritas dogs have a screw thread to allow movement, but often wedges offer the best answer for movement, and holding power.

paul :wink:
 
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