Hi all,looking for a bit of advice, have just bought and set up a new record power bs350 bandsaw, have set the fence square to table and have 90° angle set to blade, my only problem is that the blade does not run parallel to the fence, does not look an easy fix, any advice out there would be much appreciated :?
bandsaw set up advice
- Thread starter fanta0575
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Steve Maskery
Established Member
Hello Fanta
The effect you describe is called "drift" and we all have to deal with drift. You need to install a good blade first. Everyone, but everyone, on here will sing the praises of Ian John at Tuffsaws. He sells excellent blades at very reasonable prices and will give you sound advice about which blade to choosefor any particular operation.
when you have the appropriate blade, it should be installed on the wheels so that it runs on the wheels in such a position that the teeth cuts parallel. There is a knob on the back to alter the tracking.
The blade guides should just clear the teeth but support the body of the blade
It's not difficult but you do have to get it just right, by doing the right things in the right order.
There are a couple of good books on bandsaws, Dukinski and Bird. Both American. There are a couple of British offerings on DVD, my own and one by Alan Holtham. There is a lot of free info on YT, mostly American and of mixed quality. European bandsaw tables are not as easy to shift over as on the smaller American machines that are depicted.
You are at the beginning of a learning curve here, but once you have the hang of it, you will have a very useful workshop machine.
The effect you describe is called "drift" and we all have to deal with drift. You need to install a good blade first. Everyone, but everyone, on here will sing the praises of Ian John at Tuffsaws. He sells excellent blades at very reasonable prices and will give you sound advice about which blade to choosefor any particular operation.
when you have the appropriate blade, it should be installed on the wheels so that it runs on the wheels in such a position that the teeth cuts parallel. There is a knob on the back to alter the tracking.
The blade guides should just clear the teeth but support the body of the blade
It's not difficult but you do have to get it just right, by doing the right things in the right order.
There are a couple of good books on bandsaws, Dukinski and Bird. Both American. There are a couple of British offerings on DVD, my own and one by Alan Holtham. There is a lot of free info on YT, mostly American and of mixed quality. European bandsaw tables are not as easy to shift over as on the smaller American machines that are depicted.
You are at the beginning of a learning curve here, but once you have the hang of it, you will have a very useful workshop machine.
mock
Established Member
Have a look on here
www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
mock":38ezaras said:
that's the video that helped me change my BS300E from a massively disappointing and rarely used machine to the most frequently used tool in my workshop (and blades from Tuffsaws helped a lot too)
thanks guys for some sound advice, yes have only used the blade supplied with machine but had 3 record power performance blades free with the bandsaw, on recap I think i will change to the performance blades as I think they are of better quality and will then perform the tracking and tensioning steps!
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Get Tuffsaws.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
If I thought so I would not have reiterated my advice to buy Tuffsaws! 
But try them, see how you get on. They may be fine. But if you do buy any, buy Tuffsaws.
But try them, see how you get on. They may be fine. But if you do buy any, buy Tuffsaws.thanks steve for the advice, i'll see how I get on with the new blades would have bought tuff saw blades from the off as they seem to be everybody's choice, but I had a wheel kit and 3 blade set from yandles foc with the package, with the blades being recommended by mr holtham I thought I would try them first, have just subscribed to you on you tube as well, very good videos and articulately presented!
Alexam
Bandsaw Boxmaker
......................... you'll be sorry. You may think the blades you have are good, but Tuffsaw do make a big difference. Like driving a Mini and a Mercedes. They all go forward, but the latter is that much smoother and more powerful.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
pcb1962":a8cfa68l said:
I'll have you know that Alan Holtham is a very nice chap and every bit as independent as I am.
Steve Maskery":pxrgj6w7 said:I'll have you know that Alan Holtham is a very nice chap and every bit as independent as I am.
I know he's a very nice chap, I've met him, but that doesn't alter the fact that he is employed by various tool manufacturers to assist with marketing their products.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
It was a joke...
JanetsBears
Established Member
Give me a Mini for going round corners quickly though, especially in snow and ice! I'd still have the Tuffsaw blades though, in fact I'll order them tomorrow, SWMBO permitting.Alexam":28pt9m2k said:
Chris
