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I guess the silence means that this is a cheap DIY shed brand with no after-sales service.

But you may be able to make your own, depending on how simple/complex it needs to be. Are the guides completely missing or do you have broken ones you could take a picture of? If they have bearings, you might be able to get generic replacements from a bearings dealer; if they are rods rubbing on the sides of the blade then hard wood is traditional.

And a rip fence sounds like a piece of whatever is lying around plus a couple of g-cramps.
 
AndyT":3w4pit6n said:
And a rip fence sounds like a piece of whatever is lying around plus a couple of g-cramps.

I am using that particular method at present having got an old Multico bandsaw and believe me, it's a right faff! Getting the wood square is a right pain. You just end up going back and forth finely adjusting the thing! Takes twice as long as it should do. I'm still waiting for my Dad to help me make a proper one (see below)

Ryan, if you want the PDF's of a fence to make then drop me a pm with yiur email address. Uses steel bar and I'm told is very accurate. Steve Maskery sent it to me from an old magazine article.

Jennifer,
 
Here are the parts that are broken.

Gonna put a request it FS section.
 

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Jensmith":3vsrf7ko said:
.... I'm still waiting for my Dad to help me make a proper one (see below)

Jennifer,

Straying Off topic an a hijack but.

Jenifer, have you tried a Single Point Fence, it will give you constant thickness without having to consider blade drift or alignment with table.
BandResaw-16.jpg


Full article URL
 
Straying Off topic an a hijack but.

Jenifer, have you tried a Single Point Fence, it will give you constant thickness without having to consider blade drift or alignment with table.

Full article URL

No I haven't. I've only seen a brief mention of what they are before and didn't appreciate what they were for.

Thanks, I'll have a go at making one.
 
Jenifer, one small caveat, I said you don't have to consider blade drift, technically a blade with worn or blunt teeth on one side will still tend to wander but the single point is easier to adjust to compensate and I've found a blade needs to be pretty near its sell buy date to be a problem because you are able to adjust the wood angle to compensate.
 
Thanks Chas.

I've been thinking about it and I don't think I quite understand how it works yet. If you can compensate for blade drift etc how does that also ensure that your piece is both of exactly the right thickness and cut straight?

Is it all to do with only applying pressure against the wood at the point of the fence?
 
Basically yes Jenifer, also a minor adjustment in the relationship between the point of the fence and the leading edge of the teeth can help.

No replacement for a perfect blade, perfectly set up with a perfectly aligned Fence, but can save an awful lot of frustration and gets the job done when needs must.
 

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