Bandsaw Blade question: Cutting beech rings for firewood

[Carlow52]

I had a nice new M42 blade from Ian that I started using and hit a granite st6one embedded in the first ring so I put in the one shown in the picture. The stringy stuff is a nightmare, great to burn...
The rings are have an uneven surface so I need clearance on the blade, just wonder what any of you use where the finish is not important

 

[Rob Platt]

An axe and wedges if I was making firewood with that stuff. I suspect.
All the best
Rob

 

[ondablade]

Hi C. As Rob I'd be cautious about using any sort of 'respectable' equipment to cut green logs - the bark can as you discovered hide all sorts of horribles. It also is pretty abrasive and hard on blades - possibly 100s of years' worth of moss rotting down seems to convert to something very like soil/clay that gets trapped in crevices.

If wedges are too difficult there's lots of those portable vertical hydraulic splitters about now if you wanted to do just firewood - Done Deal is full of them.

If there's a definite reason for band sawing green timber (the bowl turning guys do it quite a bit it seems) my recollection is that you need a rip type blade with lots of hook, gullet and clearance, but somebody will know better than me. Tuff will probably have something to say too.

Here's a well known US supplier's take on the blade they recommend for green wood just for info, I'm not sure what they mean by alternate set but suspect it's for extra clearance:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/ : THE AS (Alternate Set): These blades are only available in 3/8″ x 3tpi, 1/2″x 3tpi and 1/2″ x 2tpi. These blades are unique in their body thickness, set, and rake angle. They are .032 thick, have a full alternate set, a unique rake angle of 8.5° and also incorporate the unique geometry of our PC tooth design. These blades are primarily used by wood-turners and wood-carvers when roughing out blanks from burls and logs. Their performance is excellent if the thickness of your material exceeds 6 to 8 inches These blades are not meant to be used on three wheel band saws or any saw with less than a 90″ blade length or a wheel diameter of less than 14″.

 

[kirkpoore1]

An axe and wedges if I was making firewood with that stuff. I suspect.
All the best
Rob

I was wondering that myself, though I've never tried to split beech. As for your blade, if you're going to keep using your bandsaw on firewood I'd keep a junk blade around like Ian says. You can use a Dremel with a diamond bit to resharpen it. I've got a blade I've done that with and it works great for sawing up firewood (though I was cross cutting, not ripping).

Kirk

 

[cambournepete]

Is anyone else thinking "Firewood!!!!! That would turn nicely that would!"? :shock:

 

[jumps]

Is anyone else thinking "Firewood!!!!! That would turn nicely that would!"? :shock:

indeed - I could see the firewood from that particular piece being from the outside inch only!

 

[loz]

Mr Carlow send that beech up to me !! - Fierwood indeed !

 

[Carlow52]

looks like I am being a Philistine cutting it up
It is pretty badly dozed but if there is someone here that would turn it I am glad to help out.
Loz where in Dublin are you as I am about to fell another big mama which may not be as dozed

Is pine of any interest for turning, I was looking at one today, will post a pic later but it has no branches till the very top and I am saying:

40 feet, no branches = 40 rings in a flash

 

[loz]

Hiya Carlow dude,

Im Dublin 15 - Blanchardstown !

 

[Carlow52]

Hiya Carlow dude,

Im Dublin 15 - Blanchardstown !

Inside the Pale and on the dreaded Nord Side to boot.
Mama Mia!
However one wood turn deserves another so I will see what I can rustle up for you and when I do I look forward to an invite to one of the next CCD gigs :deer

 

[Carlow52]

The context here is that I have access to standing timber some of which can be cut so if someone is kind enough to put some parameters on what works well at the forest floor level then I will see what I can do

The main stuff is alder, ash, oak, beech, pine- will take a pic of the pine, its not Xmas tree type.

To kick it off what works well for turning pens size wise?

[- perhaps this is best moved to another area of the forum ]

 

[loz]

Hiya Carlow dude,

Im Dublin 15 - Blanchardstown !

Inside the Pale and on the dreaded Nord Side to boot.
Mama Mia!
However one wood turn deserves another so I will see what I can rustle up for you and when I do I look forward to an invite to one of the next CCD gigs :deer

Next meet is tomorow - then 24th March !

Are you an IWG member ? - What Chapter ?

 

[Rob Platt]

If you have access to trees and as it appears you are cutting them down yourself I would get a rip blade for your chainsaw. If you have access to enough trees I would get a portable mill for around £200 and cut the timber on site.
All the best
Rob

 

[Carlow52]

Thanks Rob,

The chain-saw end is grand, prefer to keep the chain-saw work to a minimum as I always ( need to ) have a helper with me when on site.
What do you mean by a portable mill please, am not familiar with it.
C

ps just googled: it seems it is an attachment for the chainsaw

 

[Rob Platt]

Try this
http://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&xhr=t&q= ... f94b02e52e

or this
http://www.alaskanmill.co.uk/

All the best
Rob

 

[Carlow52]

Many thanks indeed
For ease of reference for fellow novitiates here is a u tube clip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOOzWli0rmU
All I need is the weather!
Thanks again

 

[Rob Platt]

The normal trick is to use an aluminium ladder section as the guide screwed down into the trunk. you can use anything really just remember how deep you put the screws in. I`ve heard of 4x2 being used as well. It doesn`t really matter what you use as long as its flat.
All the best
Rob