Another Wadkin AGS10" thread

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KingAether

Eternal noob
Joined
14 Jan 2020
Messages
275
Reaction score
114
Location
Dorset.
So finally after many, many moons i got myself a wadkin AGS10" within my budget and within collection distance and i don't think i would ever expected so much for the money! :eek: So you all get another thread about them šŸ„³
Later model fence, riving knife and guard, Crompton S10 breaking unit installed last year, extra long slide rails and original cast iron legs for extension table = a very happy me!
I will update more as i get it apart and cleaned up inside but here's pictures as it was before i took it out of the previous owners business.

Getting it loaded on that end was easy, for the first time in the last few years of building the workshop up someone already had it on a pallet, on a forklift ready to put it in the van but getting it out again was where the fun started. By the time a friend and I got back he was tired and grumpy, i was tired and hungry, it was dark and raining out and it was just the two of us. Luckily we found a pallet left out on my road and managed to slide the saw from the pallet it was on, onto the other that was propped up on the back bumper and slid it down and onto a wheel base. Thats not where the fun ended though, two vans where parked in the drive leading to my back gate so we had to roll it around them across 10-15ft of gravel and mud on worn-down 50mm plastic wheels.
thankfully that was the hard part over, i got it in the drive, took the wing tables and rails off and it slipped between the two sheds by a hairs width

A few things of the top of my head-
Could anyone with calipers and the extended slide bar/later fence measure the diameter please ? I want to buy a steel round and make myself a smaller one for day to day use but i'm not sure i trust my tape measure, it looks like 40mm but i want to make sure

Is there is a benefit to having a separate, specific breaking module over a vfd? I will put in a 2-3hp single phase motor if i have to but add a VFD to run this motor if possible and can then set the parameters to stop <10.. Considering it cost a fair amount more off the shelf a year ago than i paid for the saw its attached to i assume i'm missing something but also wouldn't mind selling it to recoup some cost...
A step further, if its considered worth keeping the break on even with a vfd but the motor isn't dual voltage, would it be worth getting a another 3hp 3ph motor and vfd or just pull it out for a single phase at that point; i really don't know if the break is a big addition or just a premium price because its necessary for H&S

Thank you for any help, ill keep the thread going as i get it into my workshop, cleaned up and into use (y)
176957333_301375948213612_7022714541409518830_n.jpg178109319_455592402176614_3735542500414793857_n.jpg176934997_214032626768077_2322102002490734329_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
A 3ph motor should be smoother, but I donā€™t know whether that translates to anything noticeable amidst the variables of a given machine. So, I tend to see what motor I can get for a decent price, in good time; I recently snagged a good quality 4hp 3ph motor for Ā£40, hardly used, so I went with that instead of wait for a 1ph unit to appear.
 
That looks a mighty beast, and in neat condition. Looking forward to the thread.

My 415V 3ph Direct Drive converter does the fast stop in 8 s by software control. I don't know if this would satisfy H&S for a commercial setup (ie if you had any employees) but it is certainly great in a home shop and has worked perfectly. The soft start is also nice. I do much prefer 3ph for substantial machines, largely because of the control. I would tend to get the controller then see if the present motor is good enough.


cheers
Keith
 
A beast indeed, unfortunately the day i collected it he got it out and left it under a tarp ready which had holes so the top is a lovely bright orange at the moment but nothing that wont come off with some alcohol and a cloth. He had also added a floor to help air suction and between the floor and dust slope is sawdust, a lot of it taking up most of the lower bodyšŸ˜‚
How much did the 415v drive cost? I dare ask as my budget now about stretches to the cheapest possible option and ive seen they get closer to 4 digits than 2 in price. Currently its likely i will search a used 2-3hp 1ph motor but keep the motor and later get a vfd when i can, if i can but i've still to check under the motor cover to see if there are more wires than the data plate lets on
 
I had an AGS10 with the sliding table for about 15 years. Really solid saw and also will take a 12" blade for deep cuts (except when the saw is lowered to it max there is still 1" of blade above the table. Dust extraction is terrible and that is something you need to work on. My current saw was 4Hp three phase but I converted to 3Hp three phase running of an inverter with the motor wired in Delta with a 240 supply from a 13 amp plug. Has run fine for about 4 years now. If you push it really hard ripping 3" oak it trips out but self resets. VFD has programming so I have programmed for ramp up/down and emergency stop. Inverter was less than Ā£100 on e bay, motor was Ā£80 new old stock on e bay. Once you go over about 2,2kW/3Hp inverters get more expensive and may need direct supply. Slowing ramp up rate will reduce initial draw on your electricity supply
 
I finally got around to taking the motor off and having a look today; i wasnt in high hopes of keeping it in use after seeing the data plate as this would be the third i've opened and 2/2 where fixed star but i believe this one is actually ready to wire delta? Could someone please confirm, the wiring diagram on the inside of the cover was washed out so no use but there are 6 wires coming from the motor and iirc happy days.
The 4 incoming wires are from the DC break box
179235552_4112814028762386_4635799343263578627_n.jpg176454283_501592524330631_1252143035838999919_n.jpg
 
Hi K

Your new saw looks a peach mate, I'm looking forward to following your restoration program, If your intending doing so.

Congrats
 
Yes, but! It looks like itā€™s already wired Delta.

The motor plate also makes the motor seem really old compared to the saw.
 
Last edited:
From the motor plate, you cannot run the motor from 240v 3 phase. It needs full fat 415v 3 phase.
 
From a Joe Soap's perspective...
Why is there low voltage stamped into the "straps" then?
Sorry just "low" is stamped on them.

At the same time, there looks to be no way to configure to star/Y voltage if it is in delta configuration already, as in not being able to stack them...
No wait, it does appear that the long slim one can fit aswell as the shorter straps.
Looks like it might be worth seeing if anything is stamped into the underside of the straps, or if they look to fit for high voltage configuration.

Would there be any other reason that all 6 wires (plus the earth)
would be coming out of the motor?

Thanks
Tom




Tom
 
Last edited:
thank you for all the replies, appreciate it a lot. i canne wait to get this saw cutting!

Edit- i just clicked that its 380-420 Ī” not Y and @deema is correct so i wont be changing it to 220v Ī” but 660v Y.. i will wait for a appropriate motor to pop up locally
 
Last edited:
Iā€™m not at home at the mo. Back shortly, but I might have a 3ph star delta Wadkin motor you can have FOC (You just have to pay for postage) I have a few Wadkin saws waiting to be restored, I usually replace the 3ph motors for brand new single phase which leaves me with motors wanting a new home. Iā€™m not sure whats on them but I can check, they usually end up being weighted in for scarp or thrown away as I have yet to find a good way of getting rid of them! They are usually imperial shafts which cost an absolute fortune to buy new.
The offer is open to anyone who wants a motor!
 
I would be very grateful deema, that's a generous offer! I've looked over the last few days at shipping on motors from a few locations and its never much. thank you
 
@deema Any chance to take a look yet? There are a few local 1ph 3hp 2800rpm motors if not just neither are ideal. One is 14a one is 16a so a risk on 13a supply

Also if anyone knows the diameter of the later style fence slide bar or could check that would be great, i will need to order some steel bar to make one for day to day. The extended ones are far to big for the shed
 
Checked all three, but unfortunately none of them are dual voltageā€¦ā€¦another load to weigh in! Sorry.
 
No worries, thank you for looking anyhow. I have found a 13a 3hp clarke motor local for Ā£30 so ill give that a chance.
Is anyone following about to give me some advice on opening out the 5/8th pulley to fit a 24mm shaft without a metal lathe.

Option a: use a 22mm bit to clear most of it, then use the lathe at a slow speed (union grad running on vfd) with a hss lathe cutter held in a XY vise clamped to the lathe to clear the last 2mm with lots of check fittings as i get close.

b: very carefully reduce the shaft to match the pulley by the same means

c: Could anyone link me a cheap replacement triple pulley for a 24mm shaft, ebay etc?
 
Could anyone with calipers and the extended slide bar/later fence measure the diameter please ? I want to buy a steel round and make myself a smaller one for day to day use but i'm not sure i trust my tape measure, it looks like 40mm but i want to make sure
Mine measures 39.9mm.
On another machine I worked on the bore of the fence casting was a bit worn. For a new fence bar, I bought 40mm 'precision' thick walled tubing for it which measured 40.05mm. Too thick. I ground out the bore in the fence casting for a nice fit.
 
Mine measures 39.9mm.
On another machine I worked on the bore of the fence casting was a bit worn. For a new fence bar, I bought 40mm 'precision' thick walled tubing for it which measured 40.05mm. Too thick. I ground out the bore in the fence casting for a nice fit.
Thank you! I don't really want to file out the fence as i will use the long ones in the future but i think ill go for 40mm alu bar instead of steel and brush a file along it on the lathe until it fits snug
 

Latest posts

Back
Top