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boysie39

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6 Sep 2007
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Location
carlow Ireland
Hi all , up to yesterday most of the cuts I was making were what I would call outside cuts , I had cut out a shape that I had seen on Chippygeoff's F/B page the (I love you this much ) Piece.
Everything went well until I came to the inside cuts .I had great difficulty with cutting out the small letters . 12mm high x 1mm wide . I spent a lot of time concentrating on what I was doing but began to make very basic mistakes after a time .Although it may not seem a lot to you people I just could not cope and ended up cutting on the wrong side of some lines and made a total cockup of the piece .

I think for my own enjoyment I will stick around the 50mm lettering for the near future or maybe further .I may try to work in a bigger dimension say 25 mm for inner cuts .It will mean more timber but what the heck I love my time at the saw and nearly love all that I make :lol: The good thing about scrolling is that the finished products don't seem to take up as much space as when I was turning . :lol:

Well that's an update on what I'm attempting to do ,and when they release me from this jacket with the long sleeves I hope I will be in better form and not have to type with a pencil in me mouth . :twisted: :twisted:

God Bless.
 
Hi Eugene. I understand the problem you had. In my first year of scrolling I made so many mistakes. I would look at a pattern and think "no problem here." but then I would get half way and realise I had taken on more than I could chew. Letters are one of the hardest things to get right in scrolling and I think yours were a wee bit on the small side. When I make the same pattern it is al;most 12 inches (300mm) long, which makes the letters round about 3mm wide so a lot easier to cut. I use a number 5 or 3 FD-UR blade for the inside cuts, depending on how small the words are. I get a bit annoyed with myself when a piece goes wrong as it is such a terrible waste of expensive hardwood.

Out of interest I contacted 2 new suppliers. I asked both how much for a 6ft plank 6inches wide and 3/4 thick. The first one came back and very kindly listed several species with prices ranging from £16 to £21. The second supplier replied with a quote of £130. As they say, it pays to shop around. I am off to sunny Manchester tomorrow to sort out Doddys workshop. I shall be making her a bench for her drill press and other equipment, putting some shelves up and re-building her scroll saw stand so she can use her Hegner at full speed without getting loads of vibration.
 
Hi Webby , I have a Hegner Multicut 1 a lovely machine and as much as I want . No problems with the saw it;s the thing thing sitting at it that is the problem :oops: :lol: But a few words of advice and encouragement seems to work wonders . :wink
 
ChippyGeoff , Thanks for your encourageing words and helpful advice it makes a big difference you know . You are right of course everything out of perspective and maybe trying to run before I can walk . A sure sign of advancing years :lol: :lol:

Geoff , there is a saw mill a few miles away from me that I bought most of my turning wood from and who cuts lots of boards from 12mm to 30mm and who could fill me shed for a couple of bowls if I thought it was what I wanted . But the moisture would be very high in this timber .Moisture probley has more of an effect on scrolling than turning would you think .???
I may drop in today and see what he has and wrap it up and put it in the heat and see what happens .The surfaces would only be saw finished but I have a planer thicknessar somewhere and I could make use of it when the timber dries out .who knows he may have some dry stuff in one of his sheds .

Anyway I will check it out in the next few days ,

Thanks Geoff .
 
Hi Eugene
I'm finding sharp turns and inside cuts a real nightmare at the mo, I've only just started and believe (and hope) that practice will make an improvement. To quote the master "Every day, in every way, I'm getting Betty"

Gary
 
Hi Eugene. If you can get a shed full of wood for a couple of bowls you are onto a winner. However. If it were me I would lay the timber flat somewhere cool and undercover to allow it to dry out. If the moisture content is on the huh side I would stick it as well, thin sticks laid on each piece so there is an air gap between the planks. If the timber you are buying has been inside for a while there is no reason you could not store it in the house. If the wood is dried to quickly it could warp and split. My supplier is simply brilliant, he knows exactly what I want and puts what he thinks I need to one side long before I order. When I have a delivery the moisture content is around 10% and I put it straight in the workshop laid flat. I have never had a problem with any wood warping. Its a devil of a job making something on the scroll saw when the wood has a bow in it.

Gary. Sharp turns and inside cuts are easy to do, its just a matter of doing them the right way. I did a short video for a friend of mine that lives up north, she had the same problem. I am going to see if I can provide the link so you can see it. Computers and me are not very good friends but I will try. Looks like I did it. My son took the video and his hand kept drooping with the weight of the camera but you will see what I am trying to get across.

http://youtu.be/OHlwpZm5U0I
 
ChippyG ,Thanks for the link to Tracies video on youtube ,I learnd more today than I have in weeks on the saw .A bit of thought and a little care should make it much easier ,and follow the instructions of course.

Anymore scrolling DVDs or Videos to recommend anyone I don't mind buying from members or new ones if I know what to get , your help appreciated .
 
Thanks ChippyGeoff, reversing the blade looks like what I should be doing, never thought about it that way before.

Gary
 
Thanks for posting the video link, for me the lights just come on. Amazing how simple it looks when you know how, now to put it in practice.
 

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