3 jaw chuck

[radicalwood]

Hi all,

I am looking for a 3 jaw chuck for my graduate lathe the thread is 1" x 10 tpi. has anyone got any links to where I might find one, not sure if they are available or not. Want to have a go at some small boxes.

Cheers
Neil

 

[Bodrighy]

Correct me if I'm wrong someone.

Three jaw chucks can be bought at places like Axminster with morse tapers to fit directly into your head or tail stock. Looking at the various websites most people seem to use four jaw chucks for boxes, even small ones however.

 

[PowerTool]

I think the same as Bodrighy - got my Jacobs (3-jaw) chuck from Axminster,but use it as a stationary chuck on the tailstock for drilling holes into items held on the headstock.
The boxes I have made (and the articles I have read about them) all involve turning spigots onto a piece held between centres,then using the spigot to hold the timber in a 4-jaw chuck.

Andrew

 

[CHJ]

Neil, Obviously you need to find a chuck system that has the correct backplate or adaptor sleeve option.

One that does is the VersaChuck there are probabley others.

Axminster do not appear to have that thread option in their standard backplates but they may be able to supply on as they have their own machine shop.

And as been said above for woodwork a four jaw self centering chuck is the norm to spread the clamping presure more evenly on softer material.

 

[jasonB]

If your boxes are very small then Chronos do 3 jaw self centering chucks with morse taper mounting but they are not as rigid as one that screws onto the nose of the spindle and you need 3 hands to do them up while holding the work

You can buy 3 jaws from most eng suppliers with part machined backplates but will have to find an engineer to do the machining.

A self centering 4jaw with the rignt jaws will do just as good a job if not better than a 3jaw.

Jason

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Neil (radical wood)

Picking up on what Andrew (powertool) and jasonB said: a 4 jaw would be a better option... it will hold both square and round stock... a 3 jaw will only hold round stock...

Have you checked your thread size? (the reason I ask is that the Graduate I had was 1.5" x 6tpi) There used to be info on thread size checking in Axminster's catalogue... maybe on their website ...

 

[NickWelford]

I use a Jacobs in the morse taper for very small jobs, or in the tailstock regularly for drilling, but I wouldn't trust a larger chuck holding a great lump of wood just held in the morse taper - it is likely to come out and hit something, especially when cutting with anything over a very light touch.

A 4 jaw screwed on to the spindle is by far the better option.

 

[Anonymous]

If you have a hollow headstock shaft I'd recommend Peter Child's jacob's chuck system, it has a threaded bar which secures the morse taper in the headstock ...stops it drifting out when you least expect it... (been there, done that!)

 

[CHJ]

Hi Neil (radical wood)...snip...
Have you checked your thread size? (the reason I ask is that the Graduate I had was 1.5" x 6tpi) There used to be info on thread size checking in Axminster's catalogue... maybe on their website ...

I have a copy of the Axminster Chart for reference.

 

[Alf]

If you have a hollow headstock shaft I'd recommend Peter Child's jacob's chuck system, it has a threaded bar which secures the morse taper in the headstock ...stops it drifting out when you least expect it... (been there, done that!)

Heartily seconded. Very comforting to know the thing isn't going to do something you'd really wish it hadn't.

Cheers, Alf

 

[jasonB]

If you have a hollow headstock shaft I'd recommend Peter Child's jacob's chuck system, it has a threaded bar which secures the morse taper in the headstock ...stops it drifting out when you least expect it... (been there, done that!)

Just watch out if you use the same MT arbour in the tailstock as you may not be able to remove it easily as the ones threaded for drawbars are shorter . An arbour with a tang should be used in the tailstock or a short bolt screwed into the threaded part of the arbour to extend its length.

All my MT3 tooling for my mill is threaded for a drawbar as there is more likelyhood of the chuck etc dropping vertically than horizontally particularly if taking intermittant cuts.

Jason

 

[NickWelford]

If you have a hollow headstock shaft I'd recommend Peter Child's jacob's chuck system, it has a threaded bar which secures the morse taper in the headstock ...stops it drifting out when you least expect it... (been there, done that!)

Thanks, Graham, I might well try that, although my Sorby indexing system is mounted on the outboard end of the spindle....

 

[radicalwood]

Hi All

Thanks for the repleys. I was thinking more on the lines of a scroll chuck as used on a metal lathe rather than a jacobs chuck for dilling.

Thanks JasonB missed your link

Oldsoke, I have a 4 jaw just takes too much fiddling with when the wood is round, would turn a spigot between centres for the 3 jaw then turn the box. maybe I should just cut out the between centres bit :roll: .

Cheers
Neil

 

[Anonymous]

Oldsoke, I have a 4 jaw just takes too much fiddling with when the wood is round, would turn a spigot between centres for the 3 jaw then turn the box. maybe I should just cut out the between centres bit :roll: .

Cheers
Neil

Neil, I'm guessing that your current 4 jaw isn't self centering... compare the prices of the self centering scroll 3 and 4 jaw chucks... as said, the latter is more versatile.

I sold a 3 jaw scroll chuck with my graduate... not sure if the guy uses it or still has it but I could ask if you're interested...