2 prongs or 4?

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nev

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Just rediscovered amongst the shavings :shock: a 4 prong drive centre i bought many moons ago when it was on offer, so i now have a choice 4 prong or 2 prong drive centre when turning between centres. (both 5/8" by the way)
So the question now arises when is the 'correct' time to use either/or?? is there a correct time or is it just personal preference :?
opinions please :)
 
4 prong for most work is best I use a 2 prong on bits that are very uneven on the ends to get a better grip.

john
 
Bin them both Nev and get a stebcentre !

Must offer up my other types for sale, can't recall when I last used them !

Cheers, Paul
 
As said by others, the 2 prong is good for branches that haven't been cut at 90 degrees. The two prongs will bite if they are placed across the cut whereas a 4 prong will only bite on one prong until it's forced in far enough for the centre & 2 middle prongs to bite.

It could do with a drawing to show you but that's beyond my abilities I'm afraid.

Regards
wasbit
 
paulm":3njwy7cd said:
Bin them both Nev and get a stebcentre !

Must offer up my other types for sale, can't recall when I last used them !

Cheers, Paul

yep

although I agree that in principle the 2 can be used with a slope - I haven't found a slope that doesn't react well to a chainsaw or bandsaw (or even a forstner bit in a hand drill to fast prep it for a steb) (hammer)
 
Hi

I'm another Steb centre user - and when a Steb centre is too large I use a ring centre. Only use a four point drive for very large spindle work where I cut registers in the end with the band saw. Good info re the two point centre, will bear it in mind if it's not possible to cut the ends of the work square.

Regards Mick
 
If the steb centre is too large, get a smaller one :roll: !

They come in three sizes 1/2",7/8", 11/4" :ho2 and you can still use the old 2 prong and four prong if you want :lol: .

It's all about choice =P~

John. B
 
Do turners REALLY mount work between centers with the ends cut at angles and use 2 prong drives to hold the work :shock:

This to my mind is a recipe for disaster :shock:

1 prong held in the wood and one not touching or only just holding

sounds like e recipe for a fly off to me #-o

Quick RUN for cover :lol:
 
I have a steb centre (the one that fits in a chuck) and it's useful but I fairly regularly find, particularly when roughing down from square, that the wood starts to slip and I end up having to tighten the tail stock. Once this has started it usually continues and the steb centre teeth cut a ring in the wood. Once this ring gets to the full depth of the teeth it's not possible to tighten any more and I have to reverse the blank.

When not using the steb centre I tend to go with the 2 prong drive and occasionally the 4 prong. Not sure why 2 prong over 4 but it just seems to be that way. It's certainly better when working with blanks cut from logs when the surface isn't flat. In the 4+ years that I've been using the 2 prong I've never had anything split due to the chiselling effect mentioned and I've never had anything come off the lathe. I'm not saying that this is best practice and what beginners should do, just relating my experience. If I turned more shop bought, square cut spindle blanks then I'd probably stick with 4 prong.

When turning rough cut blanks I also sometimes drill a hole and use the chuck pin jaws in expansion mode.
 
Blister":1fuxe785 said:
1 prong held in the wood and one not touching or only just holding

You must be having a bad day. Your thinking is 90º out.Turn and both prongs will engage.
Bill
 

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