Bandsaw Blades

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Vic Perrin":2expcjdq said:
Hi advice needed

What would you advise as the best bandsaw blade for ripping bowl blanks

Vic

I was in the same position (wanting to know) a month ago. I'd been using Axminster's ever since I bought my bandsaw three years ago and was concerned about short life, wandering and breakage - probably all down to my lack of knowledge and impatience!

Reading this forum I saw a reference to 'Tuff Saws' so I looked on their website ( http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk ) ordered four on a Thursday -- they arrived on Friday -- I can only say - Fantastic, both service and quality of product.

JG
 
Vic Perrin":2exk8pju said:
Hi advice needed

What would you advise as the best bandsaw blade for ripping bowl blanks

Vic
Try a 3/8" SuperTuff Sabrecut of suitable length for your machine.
I've had one on my machine for many many months and it is worked hard. The extra set helps with debris clearance and allows a much tighter radius than a standard blade.

I've have all sorts from Ian including M42 but the Sabrecuts are the ones that stay on the machine as my do anything blade for turning support.
 
CHJ":3imdkjiu said:
Vic Perrin":3imdkjiu said:
Hi advice needed

What would you advise as the best bandsaw blade for ripping bowl blanks

Vic
Try a 3/8" SuperTuff Sabrecut of suitable length for your machine.
I've had one on my machine for many many months and it is worked hard. The extra set helps with debris clearance and allows a much tighter radius than a standard blade.

I've have all sorts from Ian including M42 but the Sabrecuts are the ones that stay on the machine as my do anything blade for turning support.
Are they ok for ripping Chas,i haven't tried the SCc?
 
CHJ":1j76del4 said:
Vic Perrin":1j76del4 said:
Hi advice needed

What would you advise as the best bandsaw blade for ripping bowl blanks

Vic
Try a 3/8" SuperTuff Sabrecut of suitable length for your machine.
I've had one on my machine for many many months and it is worked hard. The extra set helps with debris clearance and allows a much tighter radius than a standard blade.

I've have all sorts from Ian including M42 but the Sabrecuts are the ones that stay on the machine as my do anything blade for turning support.

Chas is there any particular Tpi that I need to go for. I am only looking at ripping bowl blanks from all sorts of timber that I have getting in my way. The longer they last the better so the Sabre cut looks like they could be what I am after.

Vic
 
Vic Perrin":gz1xxnzj said:
CHJ":gz1xxnzj said:
Vic Perrin":gz1xxnzj said:
Hi advice needed

What would you advise as the best bandsaw blade for ripping bowl blanks

Vic
Try a 3/8" SuperTuff Sabrecut of suitable length for your machine.
I've had one on my machine for many many months and it is worked hard. The extra set helps with debris clearance and allows a much tighter radius than a standard blade.

I've have all sorts from Ian including M42 but the Sabrecuts are the ones that stay on the machine as my do anything blade for turning support.

Chas is there any particular Tpi that I need to go for. I am only looking at ripping bowl blanks from all sorts of timber that I have getting in my way. The longer they last the better so the Sabre cut looks like they could be what I am after.

Vic

Sorry Chas, stupid question. I should have looked at your link first (3 tpi).

Cheers

Vic
 
Looks like Tuffsaws is the answer. I have contacted Ian re size for my machine. Looking forward to getting to try one out.

Vic
 
Paul.J":9vksth4h said:
..Are they ok for ripping Chas,i haven't tried the SCc?
I've used mine for ripping Ash and Oak up to the max of my machine no problem, not the best of surface finish on wet wood but of no consequence when slabbing for sticking whilst drying.

This is it with some Elm.
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+1 for the 3/8 sc 3tpi. Just beware of the resin and chips that will build up on the blade when ripping green timber. Once that builds up the tracking will start to wander as the wood lifts the side of the blade off the crown of the tyre. Make sure you clean any swarf off the blade as it builds up. I use a sharpened paint scraper held very carefully against the running blade. OBVIOUSLY being extremely careful to not let it contact the set of the teeth ie only scrape back of blade to just before set of teeth. Ian has suggested rubbing diesel on the blade to discourage build up in the first place. I've not tried that yet myself
 
Yes, diesel or a similar lubricant should reduce adhesion of resin and swarf as Rob says. I use PFTE spray on occasion for the same purpose.

In theory a lubricant could affect the rubber tyres on a bandsaw wheel and cause them to degrade or become too slippery to drive the blade without slipping, and could also leave a problem for subsequent finishing of the timber surface, but I've never found either to be a problem in practice so far.

Cheers, Paul
 
paulm":mhjcukq0 said:
Yes, diesel or a similar lubricant should reduce adhesion of resin and swarf as Rob says. I use PFTE spray on occasion for the same purpose.

In theory a lubricant could affect the rubber tyres on a bandsaw wheel and cause them to degrade or become too slippery to drive the blade without slipping, and could also leave a problem for subsequent finishing of the timber surface, but I've never found either to be a problem in practice so far.

Cheers, Paul
That's interesting Paul, that's the concern that has held me back from trying it. Must give it a whirl
 
This is not what these saws were designed for.
When using the band mill, cutting wet, fresh timber the gullet projects 2mm over the wheel edge, thereby carrying the waste away from the wheel, In this situation, diesel is used as a lubricant to help keep the faces clean.
Instead of using diesel, or similar, which will not work well with rubber or neoprene tyres, I would have though that a good extraction connection, right under the table or bed, encircleing the blade, would be far more effective at stopping sawdust and contaminates getting between the tyres and saw blade, would even help keep the guides cleaner. I would think that removing the "cleaning" brush and fitting a hardwood bevelled scrape would be safer than the paint scrape. Regards Rodders
 
Actually I have had bit of a bandsaw day. Been using a 3/4" sabrecut blade to rip planks. In 8 and a bit inch green oak It certainly builds up deposits on the blade. On a 4-5 inch thick dry oak wood the sabre cut, cuts 3-4 times quicker than the blade supplied with the bandsaw and with a better finish. Odd because the sabre cut has 3 tpi and the original blade 5tpi.

Cut a dry 9" diameter ash log beautifully. made 4 square bowl blanks but when I went to change the blade for a 3/8" one to cut it round had a problem with the saw. The guide mechanism is stuck fully up. Can't get the mechanism out to see what's wrong (probably a wood chip in the gears). Because the top wheel is in the way. can't take the wheel out because it runs between two bits of the mechanism. Catch 22.

Think I will have to disassemble the entire upper support frame tomorrow.

Had fun with support. Poolewood passed me on week before last to Fox direct who promised to get back to me 10 days ago. Fortunately I solved that problem by down loading the Charnwood manual. Today they gave me the French number for support :) I had bought it from the UK in the hope if I needed any help I could speak in English to someone.. Ho Ho, after murdering the French language for a while they ( the French importer) emailed me another manual so I could identify the faulty part to them. have emailed photo's and a short video.. but suspect I am on my own. included in their email was the information I needed 10 days ago :) I guess eventually all will come right.

I regard buying stuff at the cheaper end of the market as more a matter of buy a box of bits from which it might be possible to build a satisfactory thing.

But yes again to Tuff saws.. best thing is to ask Ian for advice.
 
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