Burgess BK3 keeps jamming/stopping

[wineprovider]

I am a a real amateur and am retired and thought it would hobby to start wood turning. I bought a lathe etc,etc and a Burgess bandsaw. I`ve replaced the very worn rubber drive belt but even for a 1/4" strip to cut the saw is jamming or shall I say stopping.
I`ve read several posts and tried cleaning the blade checked the bottom right hand wheel for a worn bearing but still the problem persists.
As they don`t make these anymore I can`t get hold of a manual to start the set-up from scratch so I need some help.
Regards to all.
wineprovider

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi wineprovider
The burgess bandsaws were a very popular little machine in their day and you should be able to get good results with it.
Bandsaws are pretty simple machines, really and the first thing to get right is choosing the right blade for the job.
What are you trying to cut and how many teeth per inch (TPI) do you have on your blade?
I recommend you get a new blade from Ian John at Tuffsaws and take it from there.
Cheers
Steve

 

[AndyT]

Well, the manual isn't hard to find - see here - https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post699960.html#p699960 though it is pretty brief.

Setup is the same as for any bandsaw - I suggest that you attack it in this order:

1 Unplug!
2 Open cover. Turn by hand, checking for any binding.
3 Slacken off the upper and lower blade guides by undoing the allen bolts and sliding the brass bars out. Remove these and file/polish the ends square
4 Check if everything turns ok with the guides off - they may have been too tight.
5 There are oil ports (=holes) on the wheels - put a drop of thin oil in each. It is probably worth removing the circlips, then the wheels and cleaning them thoroughly

To set up again, tension the blade and turn by hand, adjusting the tracking (knob on rear of case) so it runs on the crown of the upper wheel.
Adjust the positions of the blade guides and bring the brass bars in to nearly touch the blade. The rear bearing on the upper guide should touch the back of the blade when cutting and should revolve.

If you eliminate all the mechanical places where something could be not moving freely and you still have problems, you might need a new starter capacitor. (I replaced mine recently, but for me the symptom was that it would not start easily.) I also replaced the starter switch which had filled up with sawdust and was no longer making good contact.

I'm sure we can get you going again - let us know more details.

 

[wineprovider]

WOW>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thanks for your replies folks.
I`m gonna get on with all the advice etc. tomorrow and will get back and let you know the results.
Just one other request...............is there somewhere in the UK I can get spares? such as bearings etc.
Thanks again,
Kind regards,
Martyn.........................wineprovider

 

[xy mosian]

Hi wineprovider, I have the Burgess BBS20, which is a couple of generations earlier then the BK3. Mine too occasionally jams, it is normally because a small piece of wood has become trapped between the blade and the lower(drive) pulley. The way to avoid this is with a zero tolerance insert in the table. Personally I use a piece of ply, or hardwood, with a blade thickness slot just placed on top of the table.
xy

 

[AndyT]

As for the spares question, when I bought mine I managed to get the plastic clips for the door from Axminster. They were branded "Record Power" who absorbed the Burgess brand. (This was some 20+ years ago.)

Without going and checking I can't be sure, but apart from the blade thrust guide, I don't think it uses any replaceable bearings - the wheels revolve on oiled bushes. (The blade guide looks like a standard part that you could get from any bearing stockist. Mine seizes up from time to time - a good soak in oil frees it.)

The starting capacitor is a standard item easily available on ebay; my replacement switch was one I had to hand.

 

[wineprovider]

Thanks for the further input chaps.
I`ll get back soon.
Take care,
Martyn

 

[wineprovider]

I`ve completed the points made from the responses I got from everyone.
Things are a little better but I can`t put much pressure behind the wood I`m cutting before it stops.
I was going to take a short video to show but the viewer wouldn`t be able to judge the pressure I`m asserting.
Any more ideas would be welcomed.
Regards to all,
Martyn...................wineprovider

 

[mjcann]

I had one of these years ago, never had a problem, when you say it jams do you mean blade stops, or does motor stall,
have you checked and adjusted drive belt, I think it was a toothed belt, have a look to see if its still got all its teeth.
Martin

 

[wineprovider]

I renewed the toothed drive belt yesterday.
The motor doesn`t stall.
After completing what amounts to a small service this morning the machine/blade comes to a halt with very limited pressure on the work to be cut.
Regards to all,
Martyn...................wineprovider

 

[wineprovider]

Here is a short video I reluctantly post but you can see the thickness of the wood and gap etc.
http://s250.photobucket.com/user/wineprovider/media/Bandsaw_zpsda80950e.mp4.htmlHope this works and it helps.
Martyn

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I'd have though that you need a better, different blade.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I don't know this saw, but you say the motor doesn't stall - if this is the case is there a drive pulley on the motor shaft? and if so, have you checked it is not slipping under load?

Regards Mick

 

[wineprovider]

Mick.......if you check the video you can hear the sound when it comes to a halt.
Regards,
Martyn

 

[wineprovider]

Phil...........I`ll fit a new blade tomorrow.
Thanks,
Martyn

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Having had a look at the manual linked above and listened to the video I'd suggest you check that the roll pin through the motor shaft is intact / it sounds like it may be broken and revolving inside of the pulley.

Regards Mick

 

[powertools]

That noise sounds to me like the toothed belt is jumping. This may need adjusting or may improve with a new blade that will reduce the load.

 

[wineprovider]

New blade getting fitted tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.
Regards,
Martyn

 

[Steve Maskery]

Martyn
What thickness of wood are you cutting and how many TPI are on your blade?
It matters.
S

 

[wineprovider]

Steve thanks for the input.............if you take a look at the short video you can see the thickness of the wood..
The blade has approx 17 tpi. It is a little difficult at my age to count them but it could only be 1-2 out of exactly correct.
Night all.