Scheppach TS 2000 blade adjustment (fore/aft running out)

[happy woodworker]

I have a Scheppach TS 2000 (table saw)
Generally, I am very happy with it but the blade is running slightly out along its length ie it does not run exactly parallel to the fence.
Ive stripped the saw down twice but can't see which screw/s I should be turning to adjust it. Also, I have to take the top off completely to get to where I think the adjustment screw/s is/are.
Doesn't seem to me to be a clever design when you have to go to all this to adjust the saw blade.
Can someone help me please with step by step instructions?
Thanks,
Happy Woodworker (not right now though!!!)

 

[doorframe]

Hi Happy

A quick Q... regardless of the fence, is the blade parallel to the mitre slot?

Roy

EDIT... Sorry.... Welcome

 

[doorframe]

Here's a review of this saw done by Charley...

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/reviews/tools/scheppach-ts2000-table-saw.html

He may be a good bet for advise.

Roy

 

[happy woodworker]

Hi Happy

A quick Q... regardless of the fence, is the blade parallel to the mitre slot?

Roy

EDIT... Sorry.... Welcome

Not sure yet how this forum works so I hope you get this!
Is the Mitre Slot the slot where the blade comes through? If so, no it is not parallel.
When I do a 90 degree cut, the cut piece is out by 1 or 2 degrees (when checked with a try square)
Do you know what I mean?

PS Thanks for your welcome

 

[Steve Maskery]

Is the Mitre Slot the slot where the blade comes through? If so, no it is not parallel.
When I do a 90 degree cut, the cut piece is out by 1 or 2 degrees (when checked with a try square)
Do you know what I mean?

Hi Happy
No that is not the mitre slot, that is called the Throat and is filled with a throat plate.

The mitre slot is a grrove machined into the table running from front to back. There may be only one or there may be one each side of the throat. It's what the mitre fence (or mitre gauge) runs in.

1-2 degrees is a lot.

The first step is to get that mitre slot parallel with the blade. I'm not familiar with the particular saw, but generally it's either a case of slackening off the table from the cabinet and tapping it clockwise or anti, or a case of slackening off the trunnions and moving the cradle assembly in a similar way.

When you have done that you can start to align the rip fence.

I have actually filmed all this recently, but it won't be ready for another couple of months, unfortunately.

S

 

[happy woodworker]

Is the Mitre Slot the slot where the blade comes through? If so, no it is not parallel.
When I do a 90 degree cut, the cut piece is out by 1 or 2 degrees (when checked with a try square)
Do you know what I mean?

Hi Happy
No that is not the mitre slot, that is called the Throat and is filled with a throat plate.

The mitre slot is a grrove machined into the table running from front to back. There may be only one or there may be one each side of the throat. It's what the mitre fence (or mitre gauge) runs in.

1-2 degrees is a lot.

The first step is to get that mitre slot parallel with the blade. I'm not familiar with the particular saw, but generally it's either a case of slackening off the table from the cabinet and tapping it clockwise or anti, or a case of slackening off the trunnions and moving the cradle assembly in a similar way.

When you have done that you can start to align the rip fence.

I have actually filmed all this recently, but it won't be ready for another couple of months, unfortunately.
S

Thanks Steve for your help.
I appreciate your advice about moving the Table top or moving the Motor/blade "chasis" but on the Scheppach, neither is possible as both components fit in or onto pre-drilled locations.
There is a number of screws or bolts witin the chasis but I don't want to move any of them until I know exactly what effect moving them will have.
Someone out there must have adjusted the blade on a Scheppach TS2000.
Previously, I contacted Scheppach in Germany but they emailed me the Users Guide which doesn't help at all.
I need the Workshop Manual or, as I've already mentioned, the step by step help from someone who has done it.
I now know the "throat" and the "mitre slot" but can't do as you suggest.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Happy
The pre-drilled holes are probably over-sized to allow exactly this operation. I'll be astonished if there isn't enough slack i them to do this.
S

 

[Rob Platt]

Adjust your fence
all the best
rob

 

[happy woodworker]

Happy
The pre-drilled holes are probably over-sized to allow exactly this operation. I'll be astonished if there isn't enough slack i them to do this.
S

I've tried as you suggest without success.
I'm sue that Scheppach will have incorporated a means of adjustment without having to rely on shifting the table etc.
I am going to try contacting Scheppach in Germany again to see what they say.
I will post my results as soon as.

 

[tomatwark]

Hi

Give these guys a call and ask for Alan Varnham.

http://www.nmatools.co.uk/

They are the UK importers of Scheppach.

Tom

 

[happy woodworker]

Thanks Tom.

I will contact them on Moday

 

[jimi43]

Hi.

I have the TS2010 and had the same problems...the great guy at NMA sent me these notes which I scanned and put up on my website for the use of other poor fellows with this problem.

The sketches are a tad..."primitive" but are a million times better than the manual...this is a PDF file of over 1MB and may take a while to load...

TS2000 Setup Guides

Hope this helps...

Jim

 

[happy woodworker]

Jim, Thank you for the notes.
Having worked on this problem for a couple of days, the notes and diagrams make sense.
Have told wife we are not going out now as I want to work on my saw!!!!!
Funny how wives don't seem to understand!

 

[Benchwayze]

If you can't get the mitre slot/channel parallel with the fence and with the blade, then you will find that you can't get a dead square cross-cut, without fiddling.

It shouldn't be like that. Blade, slot and fence should all be parallel with one another. Like Steve, I would be very surprised if there is no means of moving the table relative to the blade, so you can get the mitre slot in line with the blade. Once you have done that it's easy to line the fence up with the mitre slot/channel. And you will be checking the blade is perpendicular to the table when the pointer is at zero! HTH

I use a rubber mallet to adjust my table! I don't have a dial gauge, but feeler gauges work just as well, for lining up the blade.


John

 

[jimi43]

What you have to do John is simple but actually doing it is a real PITA.

You have to move the entire table top while lying underneath it and swearing as the bits of dust you miss fall in your eyes and down your shirt....I ended up wearing goggles to adjust it!

A dial gauge picked up at a bootfair mounted on a simple sled of MDF with a channel guide helped me but you don't have to go to this extreme. It also checks blade runout though....

Then...after you have slashed your palms to ribbons putting the bottom back on...(I left mine off in the end)...you need to faff about with bolts in the fence and Allen grub screws.

It is without doubt the worst designed piece of kit I heve ever encountered...but once set up...seems to stay that way!

Jim

 

[Benchwayze]

What saw do you have Jimi?

Mine is an attachment on a Coronet Major lathe. The bolts for the table are quite accessible, with a quick squint under the table (Although I find them by feel now) Once I have slackened them off just a little, I can use the rubber mallet to shift the table.

I use a piece of 14 gauge wire blu-tacked to the mitre-guide, in conjunction with a feeler gauge. I move the table until I have the same gap between wire and blade, at back and front of the blade. I spin the saw 180 deg, and check again. Tighten the bolts and then align the fence with the channel. Simples. Done in about ten minutes at most.

The table is small, but the blade is a 10". It runs like a dream, and with a good blade I couldn't wish for a better saw. Okay it doesn't handle panels, but it gobbles up 2.4 inch oak for breakfast. As long as I can lift the plank onto the saw, it will rip all day long.

Sometimes I wish I had a proper table saw, but I don't really have the space. So I settled for a Triton work centre which does rip sheets, when I can be bothered to set up the wide table! Generally I get the sawmill to reduce panels to handy sizes when I buy!

So I am glad I don't have to have a crawl space beneath my machine!

You have my sympathy my friend!

Regards
John ccasion5:

 

[jimi43]

It's virtually the same saw as the OP...the Scheppach TS2010

I must say though...NMA (the UK agents) do a fine job of supporting these.

Jim

 

[jimi43]

.

 

[Mattreade]

Hi. I know it’s a very old post but I’m trying to align my TS2000 table to blade. Just exactly which bolts underneath need looking at?

 

[Mattreade]

Hi Jim. Old post but exactly which bolts underneath need adjusting?