Collection of 3d printing files relevant for woodworking

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I made this clock a while back. Not totally impressed with it but was a good learning project. I thought with it being art and crafty that a Mackintosh style tile set in a frame on the front would be nice. So, this is my first attempt using the 3d printer and coloured UV resin. Would make another clock for it though. May work on making art and craft style numerals too.
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Can a 3D printer make an enclosed space? Say, like a ping-pong ball? Or a cube? What has prompted this question was watching the excellent BBC episode of Forensics where the guy had made many of the parts for a semi-automatic rifle. (No, I have no plans to emulate him!)
 
I made this clock a while back. Not totally impressed with it but was a good learning project. I thought with it being art and crafty that a Mackintosh style tile set in a frame on the front would be nice. So, this is my first attempt using the 3d printer and coloured UV resin. Would make another clock for it though. May work on making art and craft style numerals too.
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I like it 👍
I have tried a similar process with no success.
I 3D printer a pattern (the lead) and failed at filling with coloured UV resin. Leaks everywhere, the resin curing on the outside while still being liquid inside.
 
Can a 3D printer make an enclosed space? Say, like a ping-pong ball? Or a cube? What has prompted this question was watching the excellent BBC episode of Forensics where the guy had made many of the parts for a semi-automatic rifle. (No, I have no plans to emulate him!)
Yes it can even make parts inside of parts.
 
Yes (enclosed space). The only issue is that they can't print on top of nothing; so a ping-pong ball would be feasible as closing the top of the ball would result in a series of layers that (just) have material underneath to support them. A hollow cube would be harder as there'd be nothing underneath most of the top surface when it gets printed; though most FDM printers can bridge across gaps with some success: e.g. https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337959538
 
I like it 👍
I have tried a similar process with no success.
I 3D printer a pattern (the lead) and failed at filling with coloured UV resin. Leaks everywhere, the resin curing on the outside while still being liquid inside.
I coated the whole thing with a very thin brush of clear resin first. If there are any leaks it should seal them. Then I brushed on the mica powder keeping to one area and colour at a time then poured in clear resin over the top. Some sections needed this done twice. This gives it a 3D-glazed look. The opaque gold pre-coloured UV resin was used last. It covers the bits where powder and resin overspilled their sections. Even though it was only thirty seconds to cure each coat it was still time-consuming.
 
A hollow cube would be harder as there'd be nothing underneath most of the top surface when it gets printed;

That is assuming you print it flat on the bed. AIUI, an overhang of 45 degrees is generally considered possible. Thus you could stand the cube on one of its corners, with external support, and print it.

Something like a hollow dodecahedron might be difficult as the overhang would exceed 45 degrees.
 
That is assuming you print it flat on the bed. AIUI, an overhang of 45 degrees is generally considered possible. Thus you could stand the cube on one of its corners, with external support, and print it.

Something like a hollow dodecahedron might be difficult as the overhang would exceed 45 degrees.
True. I'd say that would be trading internal support for external support but I have seen people print such a cube by "supporting" just the bottom corner with a flat disc on the print bed.
 
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