Your hollowing out advice/tips please.

[gavinr]

I've been having a go at hollowing out a the end of a small cylinder (beech) but it is not going well, mainly I seem to be catching the edge and either knocking my wood out of balance or popping in off the chuck (rp3000). I'm using a hamlet bowl 3/8 gouge with a fingernail type profile, but I'm also having the same issues with a larger gouge too so I'm guessing it's the workman not the tools at fault.

I've watched a few YouTube clips and referred to woodturning foundation book but still seem to be struggling. Can anyone offer any advice or give me links for further reading/viewing.

Thanks

 

[CHJ]

Is this post of any use, sometimes just plain boring is safer and easier for hollowing.

 

[finneyb]

I would slow the speed and use a spindle gouge. Bowl gouge probably too aggressive which is why the piece is moving.

Brian

 

[Dave Brookes]

Gavin,
I agree with Brian, as well as slowing the speed, try hollowing in stages rather than going full depth, if that is what you are doing.

Dave

 

[Paul Hannaby]

Assuming you are hollowing end grain as in the end of a spindle, You should be cutting from the centre outwards. Use the gouge so the cut is on the left wing. The flute should be pointing at around 10:00. Push the gouge from the centre of the hole to the left and then backwards, out of the hole. If you are still getting catches, rotate the gouge a little more ainticlockwise and try again.

Check your spigot is a good match for the chuck jaws to ensure you are getting the maximum grip. Generally, gripper jaws offer a better grip for hollowing than dovetail jaws.