Yet another shedshop Mike's way. Ish

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Molynoox

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2x2 will normally sort if it is 20mm cladding and 25mm batten.

You can screw into the batten rather than the edge grain of the cladding.

Or you can get capping that goes over the top and covers end grain.
Oh ok, now i get it. So one batten at far edge of each building side to create a sort of L shape housing at the external corner, then a square section timber fitted to that L housing, fastened into one or both of the battens. And finally the cladding. Got it. Thanks.
Martin
 

MikeJhn

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Got it.
 

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aphillippe

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Progress update, over the course of the last few weekends...

Battening, went up fairly quickly and no major issues. Lots of splinters though...
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And then on to cladding. Delivery was interesting, truck just about squeezed into our drive, a little bit squeeky bum. And the crane only took out a few branches...
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Once it was all in, on to cladding. I got a good system going, made up a little plywood jig to get the spacing right, and made an s-shaped bracket to hold the other end while putting the first nail in. Once up and running, it goes up pretty quickly, and got the majority it of it done in a weekend.


Starting on the far end, less visible so all my mistakes can go there. I used 2x2 corners, pre-assembled with two battens screwed in to form the 90, then nailed to the frame. Seemed to work pretty well...

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I tried to keep as much air gap as I could to allow ventilation through the gable ends. And somehow managed to totally mis-measure the length. Uggh, the angles were a pain.
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I didn't get any photos of the back side (there isn't much to look at, nor is there much room/light to take photos, only about 2 foot between the shed and the hedge), or the other end (it's just the same as this end, funnily enough).

The trim around the window was a bit fiddly but all the small cladding pieces were the same length, so I must have done something right...
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And then this weekend's job, doors. I had some leftover cladding, 1x5 and 2x2 (and a few similar but random sized pieces from the packing for the cladding), all pressure treated. So my plan was half-lapped 2x2 for a frame, 1x5 rails across the top, middle and bottom to mount the hinges and clad between the 1x5. And then eventually insulate between the frame, and finally cover the inside in OSB when I line the rest of the shed.

Frame mostly done, half-laps glued, test fitting for the first time. Side to side size is spot on, height needed a good 5mm trimmed...
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aphillippe

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Rails on, hinges mounted...
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And they work! (so far)...
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Still to do...
  • Clad the door
  • Door bolts, handles and lock
  • Gutters
  • Soffits
  • Insulation
  • Lining
  • Floor
  • Electrics/Lighting
  • Maybe a bit of a tidy up at some point?
 

MikeJhn

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The only refinement I can see is put another board low down angled out from the wall and tuck the DPM up behind it, then slab the outside also angled away from the wall so the board drips onto the slabs.
 

aphillippe

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The only refinement I can see is put another board low down angled out from the wall and tuck the DPM up behind it, then slab the outside also angled away from the wall so the board drips onto the slabs.
My current plan, according to Mike's original design. is to cut off the DPM at or above ground level and seal it with liquid rubber to the slab. This gives the slab some above ground exposure to release any moisture absorbed either during the pour or from rainfall/splashback. I'll dig a bit of a moat and fill with gravel to improve drainage and reduce splashing. And there's enough of an overhang on the roof that nothing drips from the roof, so it would only be driving rain on the cladding. And even then, there's a good 2cm overhang from the cladding to the brick. I'm not sure I see the benefit in adding further layers to the concrete/brick. I think the exposed concrete/brick will probably last longer than any other material on this shed as long as there's no water pooling anywhere
 
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