The owner of the concrete firm. Not a lorry driver, not a structural engineer (as far as I know) but a guy who has poured probably hundreds of slabs. Certainly many more than I have. In hindsight I probably should have put some steel in but it's a bit late nowThis concrete guy, was he the lorry driver or a Structural Engineer?
Yes. It’s not just about the weight of the shed. If there’s ground movement the tension forces from the weight of the concrete might be enough to crack it.Ground erosion effects foundations, as does thermal stress, it's not just about the weight.
I note from your sketch above you have stepped the stud work back from the brickwork, it should be flush or even overhangs so the outer skin laps down onto/past the bricks and forms a drip to allow rain to run off, otherwise you will form a trap for water on the edge of the outer skin between it and the brickwork, if you can form an angle on the bottom edge of the skin material to help prevent holding the water.
I don’t want OSB sitting out in the open for the (potentially long) period until the building is watertight. Seemed easier to just stick a cross brace in there and not have any OSB on site until it’s all up and watertight. I’m not entirely married to that idea thoughCan I ask why the diagonal bracing between the studs? The OSB is more than strong enough to brace the structure, you won't be complicating the insulation or wiring installation and save a little on wood not needed.
You could always batten out the studwork, roofing battens are cheap enough, line the studwork with a breathable membrane batten over and external clad, using ring shank SS nails.re the step back, this is (one of) the problem(s) with cheaping out on thinner timber. I’m using 3x2, nominal 63mm, leaving me 37mm gap compared to the width of the brick. Either I have the water problem you mentioned or I push the studwork out but then have to batten out the interior face of the studs to line with OSB. Or have a weird kick out at brick level. I was planning on having an arris as per Mike and BDT’s builds that would push the dpc out to the brick line and then back and under the wrap.
Not decided yet. Either feather edge or 30cm upvc panels. The panels are about half the cost of any timber cladding I can get here. But they look butt ugly.You could always batten out the studwork, roofing battens are cheap enough, line the studwork with a breathable membrane batten over and external clad, using ring shank SS nails.
What are you externally cladding with?
Do not even think about a wonky wall, it will cause all sorts of problems along the way with lining up the timber studwork, wall panels and even the roof, I would either hack back the concrete slab or oversail the brickwork.
I would also bring the DPC up underneath the brickwork and roof tile or some such the exposed DPC on the outside of the concrete face, I assume the DPC is not UV stable as most aren't.
Straight brickwork overhanging the concrete would be best.Straight brickwork would overhang the concrete by 2cm. I assume that’s the preferred option.
re the membrane, I was planning on cutting it off at ground level later
Makes sense. So this might be a stupid question but what does ‘finished properly’ look like?Straight brickwork overhanging the concrete would be best.
Trouble with cutting the membrane off at ground level if not finished properly it would provide a path for water to penetrate under the concrete, surprising how much water/rain runs down the outside face of a building, its not called a raft foundation for nothing.
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