Yet another english style workbench build

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@Benchwayze that's a good idea. A small box is an ideal starting point. I think I'll make one that holds the various sharpening bits and bobs. Cheers.
If you want to make a toolbox I'd instantly advise trying a Japanese one, although that won't give you any dovetail practice. It will give you a lovely looking finished product though!
 
Peter S. will wince, but my rule of thumb with M+T is entirely dependent on whether you can see the end of the tenon or not. If "not" then glue fixes most things! Your joint looks good, but...

...The first picture shows how close that pine board is to the heart of the tree. It will almost certainly continue to "move around" (cupping, splitting and other nasty things) because of that, and isn't suitable to use for fine work. You might get on better by just using less than half of the width of it (which gives you almost quartersawn), but moisture content, etc. also play a part. Pine isn't nice to practice joinery with - it's cheap, but unforgiving unless it has been well dried, has good grain, and your tools are kept extremely sharp.

I'd guess that, if you try again with some nicer wood, the problem will go away.

Just thought I'd post an update now that I've been living with my bench for a year.

It's hard to describe how easier your life becomes when you move from doing woodwork on a picnic bench to a proper bench! It doesn't just improve work holding it makes your tools work better. As a beginner, I imagined planing on a picnic bench would be similar to a workbench - they're both benches! It turns out planing on something solid, flat and heavy that holds the wood in place exactly where you want it makes all the difference.

I thought I'd give Eric The Viking a told you so moment, though! That vice jaw timber did move. I remember thinking it'll be fine, but no, it did move. I like to learn lessons the hard way! There's now a 1mm gap at the top of the vice and just over a 1mm gap at the bottom. It still holds stuff but I'm not happy with it so off I went to buy some beech for it today. I may have accidentally bought some oak and ash as well. I'll just tell the missus it was buy one get 2 species free! Anyway, at least I'll get another go at that through double mortise and tenon now!

After the winter the front apron and the whole top needed flattening again. Oh and if anyone is doing that planked top for the English style workbench, err on the side of caution for the gaps between the planks. I made mine the thickness of the rule on my square and I watched as those gaps closed and in some places started to touch. They've opened back up now but I was going to make those gaps half that size for aesthetics not understanding how far wood moves during a year.

The final issue was with the vice screw. That also wanted to get in on the wood movement action. That started to bind and I started to think of all the comments on here saying buy a used Record quick release... you'll be sorry. I got in touch with Lake Erie and they suggested pumice powder would do the trick. Not believing it would work I gave it a go and found out they know what they're talking about and I know nothing!
 
I'm just about to embark on building this exact same bench, and already have a few questions. Since I'm new to the forum I'm curious about etiquette. Can I just continue this thread with a second build or should I create my own?
 
I'm just about to embark on building this exact same bench, and already have a few questions. Since I'm new to the forum I'm curious about etiquette. Can I just continue this thread with a second build or should I create my own?
Not sure about the etiquette, but I think you ought to start your own. Looking forward to it! I do love a bench build thread. Ian
 
Have just spent the last 20 mins or so reading this post from start to finish and have to say it was time well spent (y) , how you overcame the difficult bits and your honesty when you made a bo bo even when it would not be seen on the finished bench. If jigs and guides make doing the job easier then i say use em to the max, to many people give up when things just don't go right the first few times, when a guide or simple jig can get you good results first time (well almost first time in some cases ).
Think about it we use guides all the time - your table saw/ Bandsaw has a fence and mitre guide, routers need guide bushes etc and with the price of timber now it would indeed be in my opinion foolish not to use any and all of the devices that you can nock up from a few off cut's or buy ready made :).
 
Have just spent the last 20 mins or so reading this post from start to finish and have to say it was time well spent (y) , how you overcame the difficult bits and your honesty when you made a bo bo even when it would not be seen on the finished bench. If jigs and guides make doing the job easier then i say use em to the max, to many people give up when things just don't go right the first few times, when a guide or simple jig can get you good results first time (well almost first time in some cases ).
Think about it we use guides all the time - your table saw/ Bandsaw has a fence and mitre guide, routers need guide bushes etc and with the price of timber now it would indeed be in my opinion foolish not to use any and all of the devices that you can nock up from a few off cut's or buy ready made :).

Thanks, Mark. You're right about the guides. I'm quite happy to use them these days. I'm just building a pergola and decided to have a slant on the rafters in case I later decide to add a roof on. That decision meant that the notches all needed cutting at a weird angle. After a faff, I decided to knock up a guide block with magnet inserts to guide the saw. I flew through them then on autopilot. I'll burn the guide later and no one will ever know!
 

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