YAWN: He's banging on about his doors again

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wizer

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yep 'fraid so, sorry everyone. :roll:

I'm not going to bother with the excuses, needless to say there hasn't been much progress. So busy, time of year, etc, etc

I have managed to get 1 door started:

DSC_0531.JPG

(Sorry about the poor picture. Damn the winter nights!)

Nothing is screwed or glued yet. The frame is sitting on a sheet of 18mm WBP which will be the internal side. The outside is yet undecided, probably shiplap. I have decided to hang one door then measure the next door from that one.

On to the questions:

I am a little unsure about fitting the hinges. Should I fix them to the door, then offer the door up and mark the hinges? Or should it be measured and marked?
Also should I use a jig to inset the hinges or do it with chisels?

Should I wait til the exterior has been shiplapped before I do the hinges?

These doors really are giving me (even more) grey hairs. :roll: :wink:
 
WiZer

If you are going to use shiplap on the outside, then to get a good secure fixing for the door I would suggest you use a "parliament type hinge" this will allow you to fix the hinge into the frame of the door and still get full opening.

Make up a plywood jig for the router and the rest is easy. Fix to the doors first and then the frame. If your measuring is good then do it that way or if unsure position and then mark off the door in position.

Don't forget to allow for an overlap or fix a good batten to the one door to prevent draughts and increase security.

Les
 
thank you

Helps to make things clearer in my head.

Les, good idea with the parliament hinges, I was a bit worried about the clearance. Although I had actually ordered the butt hinges about 5mins before posting this thread :roll: No Worries i'm sure they can go back.

Thanks again guys
 
Personally I would be worried about the lack of bearing surface on parliament hinges and theit ease of being cut through. You will also have to have a large lead angle on the doors or a big gap where they join as parliament hinges push the boors closer together as they start to open.

Go for something like a broad pattern ball bearing hinge

As for fitting cut hinge recesses into door, offer up door and mark frame, cut recesses in frame, fit hinges to door, hold door in open position and wedge up level, screw hinges to frame.

Are you going to insulate the void between shiplap & ply?

Jason
 
thanks for your comments Jason

Before I posted this thread I had allready ordered these hinges

S/S Butts Class 13 SSS 102x76x3mm

Then I ordered these Parliament hinges

Archt Brass Hinges Parliament 102x102x152x4mm

As I understood Les, the parliament hinges are useful because they can be used in the same way as butt hinges but just be mounted deeper to that they miss the shiplap and screw into the 2x4's. Hence the amount of hinge showing would be the same as a normal butt? Is that right?

Good point about the opening edge. I guess some sort of rebate would help that?

Jason could you point me in the direction of an example of a 'broad pattern ball bearing hinge'. It seems all the sites I have found for hinges do not give any indication of the weight they can take. (The butt hinges from screwfix state 120kg)

Would you suggest using 3 or 4 hinges per door?
 
Have a look at Ironmongery Direct

Items ARH004 & YAH714 both are 102mm wide so will gibe you about 35mm into the softwood frame assuming 12mm fin shiplap.

I'd go for a min of 1 1/2 pairs per door, probably 2pr, 1 bottom, one middle and two at the top.

Jason
 
i too would put 4 hinges on each leaf, just as Jason has stated. Also remember, two knuckles on the door three on the frame :wink:

Offer the door into the opening, place packers on the top and wedge the bottom up. From here, mark your hinges (the top of each hinge) onto the door and frame. Remove the door, recess the hinges. Fit all but one hinge onto the door (two knuckles) and use the last hinge to pilot the recesses in the frame. Finally fit the last hinge and hang the door in it's frame.
 
Interestingly the ironmongery direct site gives the hinge loading capacity based on 3 hinges per leaf for the 4" hinges and four per leaf for the 5 & 6" ones.

I have done a few front doors with 2pr hinges and have seen it quite often

As for wardrobe doors BLum recommend 5 hinges for doors over 2200mm

Wizers doors are also very wide, a 2ft wide door of the will put a lot less strain on the hinges than a 4ft wide one of the same weight.

I'm with lynx, always put the odd number of knuckles on the frame :D

Jason
 
many thanks for yout info and patience guys.

one last question (yeh right!):

With the timber being 2x4's I've had to buy long 160mm screws to drive through. Would this be ok? Or should I look into pocket joinery? If so which jig should I buy on a budget?
 
Well I've hung or rehung hundreds of doors over the years. Sometimes find 3 hinges on a heavy external door but 2 the norm.

You obvious dont hang many fire doors then as they should have 1 1/2 pairs

Wizer you could counter bore your screw holes say 50mm deep x 12mm this would then allow you to use 100mm screws which will pull up a lot better than pocket hole screws. Or you could have half lapped the joints and got away with 45mm long ones :wink:

Jason
 
Mr_Grimsdale":3iwrohnu said:
Wizer seems to be a novice

Understatement of the year ;)

All my internal doors in my house are hung with 3 hinges. This is how the builders\chippies did it when the house was built (1996).

I realise fitting 3 or 4 hinges will be a nightmare for me, but I'd much prefer to have the stability than come home one day to find the doors on the floor and my tools in the back of some oik's van :oops: :wink:
 
cheers Jason, I had considered counterboaring, seems the most sensible.
 
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