A
Anonymous
Guest
Hello!
How can I avoid chiping a laminate kitchen wortop front edge when using a router + jig.
How can I avoid chiping a laminate kitchen wortop front edge when using a router + jig.
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sawdustalley
Established Member
I'm really not 'THAT' sure. But a suggestion would be to get a better router bit. Cheaper bits are often sharp.
You could also try scoring the counter top I guess.
You could also try scoring the counter top I guess.
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Anonymous
Guest
The Router shouldn't chip the front edge. Use a sharp bit and the recommended dia bit and speed.
Are you cutting front to back? there is more chance of this happening on the right hand cut as you come out of the chip board through the laminate but a sharp bit should cope with this. Or start the cut on the nose edge and then finish it back to front.
If you are not happy to risk it then make up a sacrificial piece of scrap timber and tape it to the front edge so the laminate can't chip out.
Steve
Are you cutting front to back? there is more chance of this happening on the right hand cut as you come out of the chip board through the laminate but a sharp bit should cope with this. Or start the cut on the nose edge and then finish it back to front.
If you are not happy to risk it then make up a sacrificial piece of scrap timber and tape it to the front edge so the laminate can't chip out.
Steve
Are you boys carpenters? OK heres how its done! the direction of the router cutter spins in a clockwise direction as you look from above! with a 30 mm collet and 1/2" cutter you always keep the face side of the joint to the left of the machine as you look down. hence on some cuts the worktop has to be turned over and cut upside down. Generally when cutting you work from front to back. On male joints a L/H male will be cut from the top and a R/H male from underneath (dont get on the floor :roll: - turn the worktop over) a L/H female is cut from underneath and a R/H is cut from the top.
It sounds confusing but its very easy - Thats why kitchen fitters earn so much money! failing that there are companies who will pre cut the joints @ 90 degrees but thats no good in old houses and often the jigs arent so accurate when cutting out of square. I hope its been of some help.
much easier to explain with diagrams - they normally come with the jig!
best regards Phil
Member Institute Of Carpenters
It sounds confusing but its very easy - Thats why kitchen fitters earn so much money! failing that there are companies who will pre cut the joints @ 90 degrees but thats no good in old houses and often the jigs arent so accurate when cutting out of square. I hope its been of some help.
much easier to explain with diagrams - they normally come with the jig!
best regards Phil
Member Institute Of Carpenters
hasbeen
Member
I recently fitted 3 w/tops in a U shaped configuration for No.2 daughter:
Couldn't afford a 1/2" router AND a jig, so went for the router, and mitred the joints.
Nothing was 90 deg.(of course), and I sweated over the job, but all turned out OK.
Woodsmith is 'zackly right with his tips: One from me....If you're not using a jig, rough-cut it with a saw (using masking tape to minimise chip-out), then take very light cuts with the router, down to the line.
And make sure your straight-edge IS!
Pete
PS: One of my 1/2"x50mm long cutters ran-out at the tip, giving a ragged cut, one way only!
Couldn't afford a 1/2" router AND a jig, so went for the router, and mitred the joints.
Nothing was 90 deg.(of course), and I sweated over the job, but all turned out OK.
Woodsmith is 'zackly right with his tips: One from me....If you're not using a jig, rough-cut it with a saw (using masking tape to minimise chip-out), then take very light cuts with the router, down to the line.
And make sure your straight-edge IS!
Pete
PS: One of my 1/2"x50mm long cutters ran-out at the tip, giving a ragged cut, one way only!
