Workshop heating solutions/humidity control

[Dissolve]

Hello,

my workshop is a fully insulated outside building with double glazed windows/doors, so it currently serves as a fridge as well as a workshop!

I'm trying to keep the humidity around 50-55% as ill be working with thin boards prone to warping. I have a humidifier for the warmer months but trying to find a decent heating solution for my 3x4m workshop.

What types of heaters are safe around fine dust? I've found decent oil radiators but wasn't sure if a convection heater might be better?

Thanks

 

[adzeman]

I have experiance with installers of 10 pin bowling lanumidies which require the same/similar humidity. What the insisted on was an air lock. Without it a humidifier is useless. You must also keep an eye on the water tray which should be emptied reguarly without overflowing the tray. As far as which dehumidifier I have no idea we just hired 4 from a local plant hire firm. The buiding services with humidity control took over when the main doors and foyer were installed

 

[Dissolve]

Thanks for the info! At the moment I'm looking into different types of heaters.

Aside from Oil filled radiators and electric panel heater.. What types are "workshop safe"?

What will be safe to use around dust/sawdust?

 

[Graham Orm]

Anything gas powered will create moisture and condensation, no good for wood or tools.

 

[MickCheese]

I would have thought anything with an open element is off the list, so a fan heater is a no. But an oil filled radiator is ok but expensive to run.

Two radiators on half is better than one on full in my opinion as it is a less localised heat source.

Cannot help more than that.

Mick

 

[adzeman]

You will of course have to purchase if you already not done so a Hydrometer there are many on the market from cheep greenhose types to expensive electronic ones. Or you could by the old fashioned one of two thermometers one connected to a small bottle of water. This is built on to what looks like a football rattle which you swing round in the air to take a reading. I would suggest an electronic one (no calculations required) and if you have not got one a protometer. A source of heat is required and as previous advice Calor Gas is a real no no. Positioning of the heat source is essential it must be positioned on the coldest wall. In this country usually the North but is effected by prevailing winds so investigae. As soon as you introduce a heat source and use the workshop condensation will occur. The heat source will circulate the air which is why you position the heat source on the cold wall. The air will then circulate away from the cold area.

A simple diagram I use for clients especially if non English speaking. Refugees come from Hot countries feel the cold put up the heat close the windows and the dwelling becomes a rain forest.

There is only one cure for condensation and the control of humidity that is air movement. In my workshop I have an air vac system tubed up to my machines and when in the shop even if not using a machine I run the vac. Each person gives off three pints of water a day and this has to be got rid of. There are a lot of urban myths around damp, condensation, humidity.
Insulation is an important factor. In my workshop I have used Kingspan covered with 3/4" ply. I was concerned that I did not put in a vapour barrier due to how do I collect and drain the condensate so I inserted a little inspection trap and checking when a hard frost occured the condensate qickly dissapered when the sun took over.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Mike - it's a hygrometer. A hydrometer is for measuring liquid density.

 

[adzeman]

You are so right Phil I have terrible typing skills. (spelt it wrong and thats what came uo should have checked) appologies

 

[Jacob]

Y......
There is only one cure for condensation and the control of humidity that is air movement. .....

Condensation can be the cure for condensation. If you have single glazing, and the condensation can drain off efficiently to the outside, this can reduce humidity. I've got a simple system with drainage channels and copper pipes and it works really well. At the moment there are icicles at the ends of the pipes so you can see it working.
It works with double gazing too, but not so effectively - you still get condensation but not as much.

 

[adzeman]

Hi Jacob I would be interested in a picture of your system. Did you mean ventilation is a method of curing condensation? The point of my post is cheerup has a requirement for maintaining humidity. For this he will have to make his workshop airtight with air locks, that can be a simple timber screen covered with polythene and closed windows. Then using a dehumidifier. Closed windows and air lock means some form of mechanical ventilation, very difficult to maintain. The posts started to talk about heat. In an air tight condition with a humidifyer the air will become arid. What is certain when you introduce the heat condensation will occur. It is the difference in temperature of a surface to the air around it. Frost is a form of condensation and it does not occur if there is a wind.

Ply is a good surface because it takes in the heat from the heat source and releases it slowly especially if covering kingspan insulation. There is a small air space between the kingspan and the t&g external boarding it does seem to dissipate what little condensation I do get. The workshop was already erected when I inherited it. If I constructed it I would have put some weep holes to disperse any resultant condensation. To maintain Humidity is difficult and cheerup requires to discuss this with a ventilating engineer. If there are any woodworkers out there who have a background of ventilation I am sure they would be able to contribute. I am only giving advice on my own personal experiences in supervising bowling lane installation and my own workshop.