Workshop heating revisited

[Scrit]

...roof is one of my next jobs when I can get some help. (I have a storeage site for the asbestos).

OK, I'd say you need to assess the structure as a whole. It sounds like putting heat in at present is just going to result in it being thrown away as soon as you generate it. You have double glazing, so that isn't going to be so much of an issue. However, the roof will lose loads of heat unless it's insulated, but so will the door - especially if your door is a thin flip-over style door and even worse if it's metal. Thin concrete floors tend to be a source of both damp and cold, especially if they are unsealed and lack a DPC. And working on cold concrete floors for extended periods can exacerbate chillblanes, etc. Whilst thin single skin walls are another area where heat just pours away.

You can get really cheap, even free, insulation if you look around - for example, how many expanded polystyrene packing pieces do you, your family, assorted workmates and neighbours throw away each year? Were you aware that straw bales are essentially a waste product in cereals growing areas? but are excellent insulation - although they do need to be kept dry and allowed to breath.

So I feel that putting in heat, whilst essential, should be accompanied with a bit of extra insulation.

Scrit

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Scrit, I've realized for some time all the problems you have highlighted I just wish this global warming would come a lot
quicker

 

[matt]

I replaced my corrugated concrete asbestos roof earlier this year and it has made a huge difference to the moisture levels (altho I should add that the old roof leaked!) and temp in the garage. Wish I'd done it much sooner!

 

[devonwoody]

I replaced my corrugated concrete asbestos roof earlier this year and it has made a huge difference to the moisture levels (altho I should add that the old roof leaked!) and temp in the garage. Wish I'd done it much sooner!

Any advice on what disposal and costs involved. (pm me if time available)

 

[Freetochat]

That sounds like a 'Challenge Tommy' project. Now he's got his own workshop built, he has lots of experience to call on.

As to asbestos, check out which variety you have. Some need special provisions, but some don't. I don't know about your area, but up here, the local council has someone who can tell you if you need to dispose carefully.

 

[Adam]

I replaced my corrugated concrete asbestos roof earlier this year and it has made a huge difference to the moisture levels (altho I should add that the old roof leaked!) and temp in the garage. Wish I'd done it much sooner!

Any advice on what disposal and costs involved. (pm me if time available)

Devon,

A private householder can dispose of correagated asbestos sheets at the local authority receyling centre (a.k.a the tip). You often have to ring before hand, and its normally only 1 tip in any district, so you may have to drive 10 miles, rather than 1 to the most local, but they do take it for free. Some have rules like it must be bagged.

It only applies to private individuals, if you have a "pro" doing it, they have to pay a disposal fee.

Adam

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Adam,

My local tip has got an asbestos skip but they keep telling me it is only for small amounts bagged (free) When i tell them I want to bring in 16 sheets they play up and I have never been given the all clear to bring it in.

 

[Adam]

Thanks Adam,

My local tip has got an asbestos skip but they keep telling me it is only for small amounts bagged (free) When i tell them I want to bring in 16 sheets they play up and I have never been given the all clear to bring it in.

I had the same problem. So I rang the council first and asked, on some general number and got put through to the relevant department. I noted the chaps name, and when I turned up, they got all shirty about it, but when I quoted the persons name, they suddenly relaxed and even helped me lift the sheets off the car roof.

Its something to do with them thinking you are a professional builder - you need to make them confident you aren't. I made several trips in the end, and definately don't turn up looking like a builder - you almost need to be wearing smarter than normal clothes - so you definately "look" like a normal member of the public - not with your workboots, concrete splattered trousers and a dirty t-shirt.

Adam

 

[devonwoody]

How about your wallet hanging out of your pocket or coins jingling.

I think it got something also to do that if you are a pro they direct you to a commercial operation and perhaps there is some incentive for doing so. :wink:

 

[matt]

I replaced my corrugated concrete asbestos roof earlier this year and it has made a huge difference to the moisture levels (altho I should add that the old roof leaked!) and temp in the garage. Wish I'd done it much sooner!

Any advice on what disposal and costs involved. (pm me if time available)

The Corporation of London came and collected all mine. I had to wrap and tape it in 1000g plastic and simply leave it on the drive. They collect up to about 11SqM FOC. I had a little over that quantity and paid about £20.

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Matt.

I will be telephoning my town hall around 9.01am

Tried ringing my local councillor yesterday at his home but told, didn't know when he would be in!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :roll: :roll: :roll:

 

[devonwoody]

I replaced my corrugated concrete asbestos roof earlier this year and it has made a huge difference to the moisture levels (altho I should add that the old roof leaked!) and temp in the garage. Wish I'd done it much sooner!

Any advice on what disposal and costs involved. (pm me if time available)

The Corporation of London came and collected all mine. I had to wrap and tape it in 1000g plastic and simply leave it on the drive. They collect up to about 11SqM FOC. I had a little over that quantity and paid about £20.

After 3 years of thinking the worse I telephoned an asbestos removal firm to take down 16 sheets of my asbestos roofing and remove from site ( they are licensed to do so)

I was quoted £597 plus vat. (they said half a mornings work), could I get it cheeper?

 

[matt]

That seems like a lot. I'm curious to know how much of that price is their cost to dispose of it as trade waste? It could be that you're paying for a service that you could get for free (or much less) if you disposed of it yourself.

That is more than the whole cost of my roof replacement project (although I did all the work so no labour charges (except, of course, the fee to the Corp of London to take the asbestos away)).

 

[les chicken]

One last question.

If the hotspot stove can burn sawdust what prevents it going straight down into the ash removal tray. I am thinking about the R2 does it take logs or is it just small off cuts etc. :?:

Working out the payback. A 3kw fan heater costs about £7.50 a week the R2 costs about £230 with flue etc, so after 30 weeks use it has payed for itself. 8)

Les

 

[trevtheturner]

Hi Les,

No problem with sawdust. The woodburner is designed to burn on a bed of ash. This builds up after the first two or three 'fills' and thereafter the fuel just burns on top of the ash bed. No need to clear out the stove after each fill - I usually clear mine out after a few week's use. If I have a lot of dust to burn, which is usually mixed with shavings, I just fill the stove, drop a firelighter on the stuff, put the lid on and let it burn down through - and I have never found any unburnt stuff in the bottom!

As far as logs are concerned, all that is required is that they are of a size to fit into the stove, then they will burn just fine.

If your stove has paid for itself after 30 weeks, then you are quids in! :wink: I have had mine for a few years now and it is still fine.

Cheers,

Trev.

 

[JFC]

Speaking of heating does anyone know where i can get a wood chip brickette press to make my saw dust into nice blocks to burn on my home fire ?

 

[OPJ]

HELP:

.

Phew! And I feared I may've been the only one!!

I've also got those horrible corrugated asbestos tiles - and they leak all over the place! Fortunately, not on any of my machinery or tools (which are all covered up and oiled regularly).

I plan to tear the roof off and put up a more traditional timber roof early next summer. Proper trussed rafters (I currently have just 2 for a 6m-ish span???), plywood, insulation, felt, probably go with wooden shingles if I can get a good enough deal on 'em! ;D

I am qualified as a carpenter after all - it's about time I use it!!

I might try a fit a door into the side wall, but what about garage doors? Is there any kind of insulation available for even the cheapo ones, like a self-adhevsive covering or something?

 

[Scrit]

... but what about garage doors? Is there any kind of insulation available for even the cheapo ones, like a self-adhevsive covering or something?

Yep! I think they call it bricks and mortar :lol: Industrial premises tend to opt for a polyurethane strip curtain behind steel RSDs (roller shutter doors), that or a bl**dy big gas heater.

Scrit

 

[OPJ]

Yep! I think they call it bricks and mortar :lol: Industrial premises tend to opt for a polyuerethane curtain behind steel RSDs (roller shutter doors), that or a bl**dy big gas heater.

Scrit

Thanks Scrit.

I'd like nothing more than to have it filled in completely, believe me! But then again, it does have it's uses - I can comfortabley have new machinery wheeled inside with the greatest of ease.

I suppose the other alternative would be to get some proper timber doors that swing outwards - the way doors were made to be hung!! :x

Nah. It's under 9ft wide between the walls and probably not even 20ft in length. I only plan to use it as a stop-gap until I can get into my own place, really. But the roofing project will still stand.

I'll have a look around anyway. Thanks.

 

[DaveL]

Oswaldo!,

You could try sticking polystyrene board to the back of the door, some of the doors have rolled edges that are just right for sheets to be set in to. I have doors that have a 1" flat steel tube frame, the middle of which is now stuffed with polystyrene, held in place by hardboard or thin ply. It makes a big difference.