Workshop Build

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

paullippo

Established Member
Joined
1 Jul 2016
Messages
38
Reaction score
9
Location
United Kingdom
Hello all
Can anybody offer advise on building a workshop, its going to be 22 x 7 x 7 and in timber. Ive semi retired and aim to start this year.
I've waited a long time for a place to make my models and carpentry so I want to do it right.
Any suggestions would be welcome.

Regards

Paul
 
Size it in multiples of 8 or 4 (feet) if you can. You'll find you have a lot less waste and a lot less work.
 
Thanks for the info, I will probably make it 8 foot wide but that will be the limit the garden is not big at all. I'll start looking
at projects-workshop-tours. for some hints.

Paul
 
How are you thinking of doing the roof? For a small workshop rafter-storage would be a decent idea for lesser used tools/timber.

You can get some good inspiration from numerous youtube channels that operate out of smaller sized shops, i.e keeping everything on wheels
 
Hello I don't have large amounts of wood just some birds eye maple, walnut and oak, for projects the majority of
my stock wood is for my model making so its not huge amounts and its going to be long enough to put brackets on the wall to hold timber.
Machinery wise I have a band saw, miter saw, 4 small table saws, filter and a drum sander and the usual large amount of hand tools,
if you work neatly it should be big enough for my needs.

Paul
 
Long skinny workshops can be really good if you don't run big woodworking machines. If the benches are kept to one long wall and nothing more than shallow storage put on the other they can feel surprisingly roomy. Though as has been said you do need to be tidy otherwise you do end up working right by the door.
It's a shape well suited to a simple single pitch shed roof. There shouldn't be any need to triangulate the roof structure either so long as you tie a few rafters to both walls. Very easy to build and delivers huge amount of wall space on the high side. The only real downside of long workshops is that you tend to need more windows than other shapes if you want to avoid dark areas. Skylights might be worth thinking about either alone or in combination with windows.
Last I'd make sure you insulate it properly. The walls should be, in order, from the outside: external cladding, air gap, Tyvek, OSB/frame/insulation, vapour barrier, internal cladding. This keeps the workshop warm in winter, cool in summer and free of damp and condensation all year round.
A more minor consideration but I like plasterboard for inside cladding because it acts as a thermal store and if painted white reflects the light around nicely. I used two layers of sound rated plasterboard (like normal but a little denser) which doubles the thermal mass and means I can maker as much noise as I like without complaint from neighbours. Fair to say most others prefer OSB because you can screw stuff to it with greater abandon but I tend to feel they're missing a lot for relatively little.
 
Wow Doc that's what I call info, I was going to put 18mm exterior ply back and sides then insulation then 18mm ply inside and on the front outside is 19mm T&G. I have a big window planned as the admiral wants it to look nice
and I had already planned to paint it white inside. I do have a really big mobile air con unit as well as its going to face south. I have no idea what Tyvek is so I'll look it up. I'm lumbered with the size but have managed to go to 8 foot width and I really do work clean. It will also be a pent roof and I'll also look to insulate the base. Thanks for that info

Paul
 
No probs. You might find 18mm ply a bit OTT. Its only needed to stop the frame (usually made from 4x2s ) racking. 12mm OSB does the job for a lot less money. But you will need to wrap (Tyvek) then clad any walls exposed to weather. Ply or OSB or anything else you choose to use in that layer needs to be kept dry. Remember only the frame actually holds the building up and nothing you clad it with inside or outside takes any load (save the racking part already mentioned) Inside cladding doesn't do any structural jobs at all which is why you can use plasterboard if you like. Plasterboard is much cheaper than either ply or OSB.
Tyvek is brand of breather membrane or building wrap as its sometimes called. There are others but the name gets used like Hoover if you know what I mean. Essentially its like GoreTex for a building. You'll see it flapping about on half built extensions. Its usually silver with red lettering on it. It lets water vapour (damp) out but doesn't let water in. Its more or less essential on insulated builds and a key reason they now work so well. Its very easy to put on with specialised tapes and staples where needed. Like wrapping a big parcel. I think there might be special versions made for roofs but on my workshop I used the normal stuff for everything. Works out cheaper and so far (five years on) its been fine. Others may jump in here and tell us if that's bad practice and proper roofing felts need to be used and I wouldn't argue with them because I never quite got my head round that bit.
 
Back
Top