Workshop build, wood frame on concrete foundation

[sirocosm]

Yes, I will have to try that. The tiles are supposed to be fastened down, but I am fastening the eaves, the verges, and every 3rd row, which leaves the top 3 rows with screws. I think if I tile 3 rows down from the ridge, and leave the bottom row a little loose, then I will be able to put a tile up underneath.

I was going to lay cloaking along the ridge for the cement to sit on when bedding the ridge tiles. I was thinking that it could just sit there, it is a pretty tight fit.

No sooner do you get a roof on and the birds start cr**ing on it.

 

[Adam W.]

The tiles are supposed to be fastened down, but I am fastening the eaves, the verges, and every 3rd row, which leaves the top 3 rows with screws.

Oh!

That's a lot of screws, do you get lots of hurricanes in your part of Norwich ?

 

[sirocosm]

Oh!

That's a lot of screws, do you get lots of hurricanes in your part of Norwich ?

The house has the exact same tiles, which are not screwed down at all. Having said that, they do occasionally blow off in the wind.

 

[clogs]

when doing concrete form work, over the years have done it this way......
decide on the width of the form/mould then cut from blue water mains plastic pipe 20-25mm dia....(or similar but stiff) to the correct width.....
then place the boards and drill thru (I use 10mm dia rod as a min) then just poke the rod thru the cut pipe and tighten...this give you consistancy on form width and it's easy to give the nuts a good nip....
then you can reuse the threaded rod over and over again...
some of my rod has gotta be over 15 years old...
one tip, I put a good dribble of oil on the threads so that a, the conc wont stick and b, keeps the rust away...
most of my work gets rendered so the holes dont matter...

 

[sirocosm]

when doing concrete form work, over the years have done it this way......
decide on the width of the form/mould then cut from blue water mains plastic pipe 20-25mm dia....(or similar but stiff) to the correct width.....
then place the boards and drill thru (I use 10mm dia rod as a min) then just poke the rod thru the cut pipe and tighten...this give you consistancy on form width and it's easy to give the nuts a good nip....
then you can reuse the threaded rod over and over again...
some of my rod has gotta be over 15 years old...
one tip, I put a good dribble of oil on the threads so that a, the conc wont stick and b, keeps the rust away...
most of my work gets rendered so the holes dont matter...

That sounds like a good way to do it. In Canada you can buy steel (or stainless) snap ties. They are little flat pieces of metal that have slots in the ends. They go through the forms and then you slide a steel bar through the slots to hold the forms together. The little tabs on the inside hold the forms apart, and the notches allow the ends to break off just below the surface after the concrete has set.

 

[Inspector]

I remember those snap ties from when I was a framers helper out of high school. They are part of a form rental system that were delivered to the site. Two or three of us would layout (800 to 1500 square foot house) and build the footings from 2x6,8 or 10s with 1x3 across the tops and then set the forms on top. Concrete trucks plus maybe a pumper if access was tight and pour the cement. Usually had it timed to be done on a Friday, having started on a Tuesday or Wednesday, then let them set over the weekend. Monday morning smacked the ends of those snap ties with our framing hammers (still have it), pulled the tabs off the bars and stacked everything for the form rental guys to come and get. The 1x3 were broken off at the base of the foundation and footing and the 2x footing lumber pulled and de-nailed by yours truly for reuse in the house. Tuesday we would start framing.

Pete

 

[sirocosm]

I remember those snap ties from when I was a framers helper out of high school. They are part of a form rental system that were delivered to the site. Two or three of us would layout (800 to 1500 square foot house) and build the footings from 2x6,8 or 10s with 1x3 across the tops and then set the forms on top. Concrete trucks plus maybe a pumper if access was tight and pour the cement. Usually had it timed to be done on a Friday, having started on a Tuesday or Wednesday, then let them set over the weekend. Monday morning smacked the ends of those snap ties with our framing hammers (still have it), pulled the tabs off the bars and stacked everything for the form rental guys to come and get. The 1x3 were broken off at the base of the foundation and footing and the 2x footing lumber pulled and de-nailed by yours truly for reuse in the house. Tuesday we would start framing.

Pete

Haha, if you had worked in Regina, we might have met. When I was in high school, I worked in a form rental shop, and I was the guy delivering the forms and the waler bar.

 

[Inspector]

Close. Langley in the Fraser Valley back in the mid 70s.

 

[Keefy.]

You can use Evostik "Sticks like s**t" to fix your ridge's.

 

[lexi]

only use mortar on the ridge as you had planned. Nice work. No counterbatten on tile that you show? Not a biggie mind as I have a 70 year old roof with none, but it is a must detail now.

 

[sirocosm]

only use mortar on the ridge as you had planned. Nice work. No counterbatten on tile that you show? Not a biggie mind as I have a 70 year old roof with none, but it is a must detail now.

Although there is no counter batten, if you look carefully you can see there are little spacers where the battens are screwed to the joists to let the water drain. Not sure if they are tall enough, but they seemed to work OK when it rained.

Playing with mortar now, it is a bit of an art not to get it all over the place.

 

[sirocosm]

Ridge tiles. Lucky I have lots of old broken bricks kicking around.

 

[lexi]

You are doing ok. Try to bed the middle of ridge tile as well as the two ends. It takes more mortar but gives more hold in a storm. Just use your broken tile to fill the voids and make the mortar count.

 

[sirocosm]

Roof done, floor almost ready to pour.

 

[Inspector]

Are the shin pokers going to be incorporated later somehow, aside from being a level holder at the moment, or are they destined to be cut off?

Pete

 

[sirocosm]

I keep thinking they will be useful for something later, but I bet they just get cut off in the end. I cut the outside ones off the day I put on the tanking slurry.

 

[sirocosm]

Are the shin pokers going to be incorporated later somehow, aside from being a level holder at the moment, or are they destined to be cut off?

Pete

The shin pokers have found a purpose, to hold up the back of the bottom shelf of the work benches.

 

[sirocosm]

The workshop now has a door, 1930s style. Got it cheap off FB marketplace. It is solid hardwood, meranti I think. The stain glass is fake, but a good fake.

 

[sirocosm]

Just finished making the window bottoms and frames. The stained glass is recycled, I got 10 of them on Gumtree for £5 each. They were left over from a 30s house after someone replaced their wood windows with plastic. I had them before I started framing, so the openings were designed around them. Waiting now on the textured glass I ordered to go in the bottoms. Rendering is next.

 

[lexi]

Are you going to wire lath it then apply render?